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  1. #1

    2001 Virage No Spark with new CDI

    I followed the advice of many on this forum so far with excellent results each time, but I seem to be stuck. After pulling ski out of storage and prepping for summer, I am not getting spark. I am not getting 7-9 volts at the brown wire at the CDI box with engine cranking over. I used the 9 volt battery test to put positive to brown wire and negative to engine ground while turning over and engine started right up. Great, I need a new CDI.
    I installed the new CDI and I am having the same issue. Ski won't start with out using 9 volt battery test. Battery voltage at red purple during crank is 10.9 & C/B checks good.
    Any thoughts?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    Interesting problem you have there...

    So with either CDI (new or old) you can start and run the engine if you use a 9 volt battery to power up the stator Hall Effect sensors. But if you connect the Brown wire to either CDI (in the normal fashion) the engine will not have spark. Have I got this right?

    With the new CDI connected to stator Brown wire, what voltage is on that Brown wire while cranking?

    Is the 'new' CDI actually new?

    What are the part numbers on each CDI?

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply.

    The Part numbers are; old CDI 4010558
    new CDI 4010803 with 58 written on back
    I ordered "new" from online retailer in FL, I assume it is new.

    I checked the volts from the disconnected brown wire from the CDI during cranking and meter shows -1.0 volts.

    Having reread your checklist, I realized I never disconnected brown wires to run 9 volt battery test. I just inserted a probe to connector.
    I rechecked the 9 volt battery test and found that when the brown wire is disconnected and positive is applied to wire to the stator and negative to engine ground, engine turns over but will not fire.
    If I connect the brown wires together and run 9 volt battery test engine will not turn over at all until I remove battery from engine ground. Once I do that it will turn over and then I can apply negative to engine ground and engine fires and starts up/runs until I remove battery from engine ground.
    I am starting to think stator might have issues.

    Thanks again.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Brown wire to stator is either powered by the CDI or is powered by the 9 volt battery. 9 volt battery should never be connected to the CDI Brown wire, only to the stator Brown wire.

    I do not know if the CDI could be damaged by back feeding 9 volt battery power into the CDI Brown wire.

  5. #5
    I have the luxury of 2 identical skis to play with, 1 working, the other not. I swapped the non-working ski's CDI into the working ski and it started right up. Vice-versa the working ski's CDI didn't fire the non-working ski. In fact, all three CDI's power the working ski, so I am pretty sure the CDI's are working and apparently, back feeding 9 volt battery power into the CDI Brown wire didn't hurt them either.
    I still don't have 7-9 volts from the brown wire at CDI during cranking from non-working ski. Ohm checking disconnected stator wires doesn't show anything out of the ordinary comparing the two skis. I haven't checked hall effect sensors yet, I need to rig up a 9 volt batt to setup.

    The write up states "As the motor cranks over with the starter motor, the rotating flywheel magnets energize the LR voltage regulator module (Yellow wire) and activate the CDI ignition module with energy from the stator exciter coil (Purple)."
    Is there a way to check either to see if there is a problem suppling to CDI?
    If not I have to assume there is a problem with the stator.


  6. #6
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    To get 9v on the brown wire, you need to have more than 10.6v going into the CDI on the red/pur and the blk/yel can not be grounded.

    You need to read K447's instructions for bypassing the LR and Start/stop switch.

  7. #7
    Thanks for the replies,

    It appears the LR-505 module is bad. Engine started right up after first pushing/holding bilge pump button then hitting starter. It ran until I let go of bilge pump.
    I should have known the problem is never the first or second item on any checklist, it's always the last.
    Thanks for your help, now I have to figure out what to do with an extra CDI.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Dundee, MI
    Quote Originally Posted by wrenchin-n-atl View Post
    Thanks for the replies,

    Thanks for your help, now I have to figure out what to do with an extra CDI.
    I would either keep it for a spare, or find someone who is looking for one, and offer it to them cheap

    Which one don't you know what to do with, the new one, or the used one? I am looking for one for my SLH.


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