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  1. #1

    Pump Nozzle seized onto Pump Stator

    Hello, ('94 Polaris SL650 / No reverse - No Trim)

    I watched the videos on how to remove the pump assy. Only thing is that the video seemed to already have the Pump Nozzle removed. My Stator Assy came off with the Pump Nozzle attached, and very firmly I might add.
    My question is, how do I get the Nozzle off my Stator without breaking both of them. I need to replace the bearings in this unit and I need to get the Nozzle off to do it. It appears to be a semi-fragile cast aluminum or ?? I watched the video on how he seperated the wear ring extension on his pump and he used a wooden mallet. He appeared to be really whacking the crap out of that seemingly lightweight and fraglie metal with no bad results. My luck, the first hit and the whole thing will crumble in my hands. I used a nice sharp wood chisel and used a small hammer to hit it at the seam to try to at least start a seperation ......... no results at all ......... it's really stuck. Can I really wail on this thing as hard as he did in the video?

    Any suggestions are welcomed and thanks in advance

    Jeff Galloway


  2. #2
    It's got to come off one way or another. If you break it they are (relatively) cheap to buy on ebay. Just don't whack the fitting where the intake tube goes...that's the most fragile part.

  3. #3
    rlharrison60's Avatar
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    What pump do you have? Is it the smaller short pump? I have an old 650 laying around much different than the others. The nozzel bolts onto the pump.

  4. #4

    Thanks for the replies

    Hey There,

    Thanks for your replies: I will just do like the video showed, stay away from the water tube inlet, and hope if one has to break - it'll be the cheaper of the 2.

    Nope, mine's not bolted on ....... I'm sure it's simply been stuck together since 1994.

    Again, thanks for your time,

    Galloway

  5. #5
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    You could hit it with a 2 by 4, or heat it up a lil around the seam. then beat on it a lil. don't kill the thing but hit it... stay away from the end of the nozzle or the water inlet area.. try some wd-40 or PB blaster to loosen it up. try not using a screwdriver in the crease and chiseling it off. if it breaks, I can get ya one.

    Was this in salt water? Run a razor blade in between the seam, that will give the PB blaster somewhere to go..

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indngvr View Post
    H... My Stator Assy came off with the Pump Nozzle attached, and very firmly I might add.

    ... he used a wooden mallet... appeared to be really whacking the crap out of that seemingly lightweight and fragile metal with no bad results...
    That was a rubber head mallet, not wood

    The key is to support the assembly underneath such that the mallet whacks cause a slight torque or twist of the parts at the seam, causing the seam to gradually open up. In the video there was a 2x4 supporting the stator portion, and the extension ring was hanging out in free space.

    You can use some torch heat applied around the rim of the nozzle to expand the metal and hopefully crack the corrosion bond. There are plastic bushings at the steering nozzle pivot bolts, so you may need to replace those if you heat the nozzle a lot. Those plastic bits probably could do with replacing anyways.

    Other than that, feel free to apply some torch heat. You will be replacing the seals and bearings anyways, and everything else is metal.

  7. #7
    Thank you gentlemen .......... We Got It !!

    I held the assy upside down by the impeller, suspended over a box of rags for a landing pad, just in case. I had another guy hold a 2X4 block atop the 2 ears that stick out from the sides of the nozzle (as apposed to the 2 that are captured in the stator that you can't hit anyway) Alternating back and forth he hit the 2X4 with a 3 lb hammer. As you suggested, we hit firmly but didn't go crazy. After alternating about 6 times, it moved. Another 4 times and it landed soflty in the box of rags .............. THANKS GUYS !!

    Jeff Galloway

    PS? Glad I decided to pursue this ........... even though the aft bearing looked great ........ the forward bearing and the 2 seals were ate up pretty badly. Hopefully the new bearings will stop all lateral play and help the impeller stop hitting the walls of the wear ring.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Impeller blades may be worn. If blade clearance to wear ring exceeds 20 thou then impeller should be refurbished.

    Replace all the seals and bearings in the stator, not just the 'bad' ones

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