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  1. #1

    2000 GTX Carb Removal - Remove Pipe?

    I have a 2000 GTX (bought it new in 2000) and it has just recently started to bog down. I am getting ready to rebuild the carbs and replace the fuel lines but have not done major work to the watercraft. I am mechanically inclined and used to work on my dirt bikes in my earlier years so I think I can manage ("think" being the key word). Anyhow, I was wondering if I need to remove all or part of the exhaust pipe in order to get the carbs out? If so, any tips on how to go about removing it (and the carbs), along with replacing both? Once done, I am guessing I will need to connect the throttle back on the carbs - any tips on how to do that and get it adjusted correctly?

    Thanks in advance


  2. #2
    20 feet Boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Bend OR
    This is a 951 motor right? You don't Have to take off the pipe to get to the carbs. It is a little hard to do but can be done. There are 2 air intake pieces at the top of the motor. Take them off. Then there is a air cover that snap on to the carbs behind the pipe. Snap it off and slides it back to the back of ski. Take off the choke cable. Small Allen bolt on the rod at the end of the cable. There are 4 Allen bolt on each carb. You may need a mirror to see what your doing. You will need to remember what you took off to reassemble later. fuel lines and return fuel lines. If you can, try not mess with the oil injector. You can mess up the ratio on it. Unless you plan on cleaning it too. Ones you have the carb out look at them to see how they work and how to adjust for the idle. They are way different then a dirt bike. It has been a while sense I did it so I might of mist something. good luck and someone Else may have a better way. Make sure when putting it back together to put thread lock on the bolt. And there is a small filter in the carb that needs to be clean too. Doing this and changing the fuel lines will most likely fixes the problem with out rebuilding the carbs. But if you are in there you might want to. And dont buy cheap fuel lines. You will be just replacing them again. Mine are USCGA and cost about $60 to $75.

  3. #3
    PEST!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Rockledge Florida
    DO NOT REMOVE THE EXHAUST TO REMOVE THE CARBS. Its totally unnecessary. Remove the air horns first then the air box. The air box moves forward to come off the support post near the starter then you hold it out against the hull an work it back then up and over the engine support. Then remove the stainless carb support /airbox latch. 3 Allen bolts. Then there are 4 allen bolts that hold the carbs Back them out till you can pull them by hand out then set the carbs in the bottom and remove the choke cable and the top hose (1/4" return to tank). Now roll them over to see the inlet hose and throttle cable and cable to the oil injection. Remove them all and pull the carbs out the same way the airbox came.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replies. Yes this is the 951.

    I am also planning to change the fuel lines and reading through that post it appears I need both 1/4 and 5/16 fuel lines (the first post has 3/8 instead of 5/16, which appears to not be the correct size). 20 Feet Boy - the posts mention fuel lines from auto parts stores, which I do not think would be USCGA so I was wondering where you got yours? Also what clamps are the best (and where to get)?

    Back to the carbs, another post mentioned synchronizing the carbs - is this required and if so any procedures/tips on how to do this? I thought if various settings were not changed they could just be bolted back in. I am also guessing I need a carb rebuild kit. Any other things needed, like gaskets, etc.? Usually when I start a project I end up needing something from a store no matter how well I plan, and with this maintenance I really want to have everything in advance so I can work straight through.

    Thanks again

  5. #5
    20 feet Boy's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    Bend OR
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ID:	242164 The fuel line that I have are called Trident fuel lines. They make a bunch of different ones and there are other company that make USCGA fuel line too. Just make sure to get ones that are rated for ethanol fuel. I found mine on line at a marina store for ocean boats. Make sure to get real stainless steal hose clamp. There are some cheap ones out there. Synchronizing carb is just making sure they open and shut together with the linkages so they are feeding the fuel at the same time when puting them back together. There are a few gasket for the intake. You might be able to reuse them, I did. The big o ring on the carb will be OK too. The carb might just need to be cleaned not rebuilt. Just when taking them apart be careful with the gaskets and o rings. Make sure to clean the small filter in side the carbs. #22 on the sheet. I don't known the air screw setting etc so you will need to find out that stuff if you do a full rebuild. maybe get some zip ties and thread lock for putting it back together. I hope this help a little. good luck .

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