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Thread: Engine Rebuild

  1. #1

    Engine Rebuild

    Hey yall i'm new here. Was just curious if anyone had any tips on restoring a 750 engine? The dang thing siezed up on me had to tare it compleatly apart to free it up. Im working on cleaning out the jugs now. But the whole crankcase is filled with water/oil mix. Is that normal?? Does anyone have a service manual they can send me for a Kawasaki 750 ss?? This is my first tare down of a jet ski just kinda going off my general knowledge.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Is it the crankcase, or the front cover? If there's water in the crankcase, toss it. The crank, rods, bearings, etc. are trashed. If it's just in the front cover, it might be salvageable, but the stator may be corroded to the point of needing replacement.

  3. #3
    The water was in the crankcase, but I sprayed it all out and everything moves freely now. The damage to the motor is more in the piston heads being locked up, and the jugs needing honed out. I cant seem to get the heads of the pistons off tried everything I can think of they just wont.

  4. #4
    throwing it away is a bit premature. a good machine shop can test it for cracks. You need to find the cause of you effect. As for "the heads"...... That engine has a single head on the jug. You cant get the head off the jug or ......? In other words I am not informed enough to help.

  5. #5
    Sorry, I confused myself when I worte that post, I cant get the piston off of the rods. The head of the engine is fine. I have the jugs removed and everything is accesable just cant get them to come off.

  6. #6
    they have a round keeper on either side of the piston. shaped like a c with little cicles at each end of the c, Best if you went to a auto parts store and got the tool to remove them cause you will be needing it for the rebuild. Snap ring pliers I think is what they are called (Not an expensive tool) As for the water issue. everything will need to be replaced no matter how much wd40 youve used and the fact that all is spinning reely now,the bearings will rust and sieze again. Any scoring on the crank?

  7. #7
    no, there is no scoring on the crank, and I have taken the "snap rings" off but I cant get the pin to move at all. As for replacing stuff, oil seals is all I was planning on changing out. The bearings was going to clean up and re-grease them. That has always worked on my snowmobiles.

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    No rust on the crank?

    To remove the pistons, you'll have to rig up a tool to pull the wrist pins out. A long bolt that will slide through the wrist pin, a large washer and nut to fit, and a deep socket large enough for the wrist pin to slide into. Slide the bolt through the wrist pin, then through the socket. Install the washer and nut and tighten the nut to pull the pin out.

    When buying parts, you'll need to specify whether you have a 'big pin' engine or 'small pin' engine. The big pin has a 22mm diameter wrist pin, the small is 20 mm. You can tell by counting the number of studs on the reed boxes. 12 studs (6 per cylinder) = big pin, 10 studs = small pin. The cranks, case, pistons, rods, wrist pins, intake manifolds, etc. are all different between these engines and not interchangeable.

  9. #9
    I had a sl750 with water, oil, gas in the crank that sat for a winter and had a bad piston.
    All i did was clean it out, lube it up with some oil,change the piston and it ran like new never had problems with the ski again.

  10. #10
    steve45's Avatar
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    How LONG did it run?

    That's the problem, you might get a season on a rusty crank, but it will come back and bite you someday. Make sure you can swim!

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