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  1. #1

    Engine Stop Switch Question

    Hello everyone,

    Been getting tons of info from this site in the past year...thank you. I have a '94 SLT 750 that I have been working on. My ski will still start with the stop switch pushed in. The wires are connected to the right terminal posts in the electrical box and I tested the switch according to the repair manual and I am getting less than .3 ohms from the two posts inside the switch. I ordered a used switch and installed it and am getting the same results? I don't understand what else it could be?


  2. #2
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    Does the switch kill the engine when you press it or pull the lanyard?

  3. #3
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Shouldn't it be infinity when the button is inactive and 0 ohms when depressed? I was under the impression the kill switch simply grounds the CDI and kills spark.

    Open the e-box and measure continuity between the black and black/yellow terminals with the stop switch normal, you should get infinity. Next press the switch, you should get 0 ohms now. If your readings vary at all I would bet the stop switch is bad. The next possible solution is the CDI may have problems.

    KJ

  4. #4
    No, it doesn't. I have been pulling the choke to kill the engine.

  5. #5
    I get 0 ohms when the switch is pressed. With the tether clipped in, the ohm reading climbed to 0.8 +/-

  6. #6
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdxsam View Post
    I get 0 ohms when the switch is pressed. With the tether clipped in, the ohm reading climbed to 0.8 +/-
    Okay then, I believe you should get a reading of infinity with or without the tether and not having he switch depressed. I'd say there is something wrong with the assembly and it probably needs replaced.

    KJ

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Perhaps the CDI is bad...

    Ground the CDI Black/Yellow wire right at the terminal board. If the engine still starts then the CDI is bad.

  8. #8
    K447,

    The first time I opened the electrical box after buying the ski, I noticed that blk/ylw wire coming from the CDI was unplugged from the terminal board. The tan wire coming from the engine temp sensor in the cooling rail was also unlpugged. I connected these wires and noticed no difference in the ski. It starts and runs great...I rebuilt the carbs and entire fuel/bilge/drive system on it. Replaced that 1/4amp fuse as well and got the MFD working. It's too dangerous to not have a shut-off, so you think just that one wire is bad in the CDI?

  9. #9
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdxsam View Post
    It's too dangerous to not have a shut-off, so you think just that one wire is bad in the CDI?
    I believe the test K447 suggested is a go/ no-go for CDI replacement. Have the CDI and everything connected properly in the E-box. Now jumper the BLK/YLW terminal on the board to the BLK terminal. If the ski still runs it means the CDI is bad and must be replaced. If it does not run you have an electrical short somewhere else.

    The purpose of the stop button is to short the CDI to ground and kill spark generation. That is what you are doing with the jumper, shorting out the CDI.

    If yours is bad, I believe John Zigler has some good used ones for sale.

    KJ

  10. #10
    I jumpered the wires like you said KJ, the ski still started. But, I don't understand how it could be the CDI because the ski runs great. You'd think if the CDI was bad then it wouldn't even start the motor. Could it be the terminal board is bad? I guess I'll check the ground for the CDI to make sure it is good. Could it be because the BLK/YLW wire going into the CDI was unplugged for so long it somehow ruined it?

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