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  1. #1

    2004 Virage 700 very weak spark-no start

    Howdy folks, very much appreciate the venue to ask for a secornd (third, forth...) set of eyes on this one.
    Read up on all the other no start, no spark threads, think I have all the info.
    First detail, this pwc was sent to the "local mechanic" that knew it was the stator...apparently that was replaced. Waiting for validation and old parts.

    I am fixing for a neighbor so here goes:
    Great shape pwc, low hours, no start.
    Compression, fuel (Carb) all good. Very weak spark at best.
    Coil is 4010175
    CDI 4010803 (Rear of CDI, in handwriting is a 2934 4)
    All the measurments done with a digital volt meter, and come in fairly close.
    Coil secondarys come in high at 3000 ohms, if I remember right they should be 1200-1600 without wires, right?
    The one stumper is the trigger coil test. I cannot get any meter change with the dvm, looking to find my old trusty analog meter. I removed both plugs, connect the 9 volt to brown and gray, have one lead from the dvm on the gray while trying both the red or green wire....reach underneath guard and rotate motor slowly, nothing. Is this due to the digital meter, something I am doing wrong or bad trigger coils?
    Now a stupid question...these trigger coils part of the supposed "new" stator?

    The very weak spark seems to be pulsing at close to the correct rpm, so I was expecting the trigger coil test to be fine. Seems like cdi is getting a signal.

    What next? prior to the crazy lack of anythign on the trigger test I was leaning towards the CDI.

    Thanks! T

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Not quite following you - the stator was diagnosed as bad by the mechanic, and a replacement was installed. Correct?

    You are diagnosing the new/replacement stator?

    When testing the Hall Effect sensors in the stator the voltage polarity is important. Both the 9 volt battery and the meter leads must be connected per the diagram.

    Some digital meters may not show the expected ohm change. Try swapping the meter probe polarity, see if you get better readings.

    Note that the Hall Effect sensors are not coils. There are small electronic chips embedded in the stator.

  3. #3
    I was told that the other mechanic stated the stators are the weak link, and it was replaced. Not sure if he diagnosed or not-more of a part replacer mentality I believe. And the same very weak ingnition (at best) post "repair".

    Yes, I am diagnosing the new stator and will recheck the polarity (-) gray, (+) brown while dvm (ohms) is on gray and green or red. Thanks for the note on the sensors...I hope I had the polarity swapped. Stay tuned!

  4. #4
    OK, correction-made sure I had the polarity correct this time. Indeed there is a signal, ohm meter goes from what I believe to be "infinite" to approx 110 ohms as I rotate the engine slowly. Must have had the +/- swapped. re-assy and of course spark is still quite weak. should/could the coil secondary's (plug wire connection -> plug wire connection) resistance be the issue? it is higher than what I have seen in the posts/manual. 3000 ohms or so without plug wires. Back to thinking it maybe that CDI on this fine Monday morning! nothing like an ohmeter and some di-electric grease with the morning coffee! What direction do you think I should go? Thanks for the correction on the leads.

  5. #5
    Are you getting proper voltage from your battery? A weak battery will cause weak spark.

  6. #6
    It is now a brand new battery, with a full charge. high 12's, with mid to high 11's when cranking... Battery was my first thought, and old one was weak so it got replaced. Anywhere else I need to look at this voltage to absolutely make sure it is being supplied...maybe @ the CDI? The interior of the engine compartement is very very clean, and no water damage/corrosion etc. All wiring and grounds are clean...I have checked them all just as a precaution.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Try these things;

    Hold bilge button down, see if spark is stronger.

    Unplug and bypass the LR Start/Stop module. Test with and without Bilge button held down.

    Make sure you have both spark plugs connected and grounded to engine when testing.

  8. #8
    Bildge pump runs when the button is pushed, no diff in spark

    Bypassed, per your notes, the LR module temporarily putting the non LR black/white over to the black posts (Ground) on the LR board. Plugs in, engine cranks fine...same weak spark when I press the Bildge button. I have an inline (similar to a Lisle 20610 Inline) Spark Tester. It barely lights in a spark condition. (i.e. in this case when I also push the bildge button) It is the same spark that I get when fully resassembled...can the Coil be the issue? 3000 ohms at secondaries. Or CDI? at rsik of repeat, grounds and battery are all great and have been checked and rechecked.

  9. #9
    I just re-read all that "simtech" has on a post early June. Just about identicle to time I think. Difference is not a no cpark, but a weak spark. Is this still possible cdi wise? Whats the best route toi find one of those beats?

    Thanks folks...great site for picking through details for sure!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Replacement CDI?

    Used, start with John Zigler, or the Classifieds on here.
    Be aware of the difference between a high start CDI and a regular start CDI.

    New, there are a number of online Parts Sources listed via my signature links.

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