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  1. #21

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    Your idea of shimming it and drilling a hole seems like a good idea (assuming you meant drilling the hole next to the existing air intake tube). Might not even need to shim, the hole alone would increase flow. You could even use a piece of PVC to make a tube similar to the existing one to prevent water from rolling directly in.

  2. #22
    Back in the saddle again XLT Chad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aquaholic6801 View Post
    Heres a cheap easy and semi safe way to get more air in the hull.......pull the seat base off and place a washer or 2 on the screws and put the seat base back on.............
    I sort of agree. Shimming the seat will give the air an exit. You still need an air entrance towards the front of the ski for flow to occur. Air has to enter the hull to be able to exit the hull.

  3. #23
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    These engines are pulling a ton of air, it pulls it in from any where it can get it, if you rev your ski out of water and it sucks the seat cover in, its starving for air......these engines suck in so much air , the only time hot air is in there is when you sit for a while and the engine heats it up.....I have a depth finder/temperature "puck" mounted in my hull....when the engine is running the temps in side the hull are only @ 5* higher than ambient out side temp.............Just a guess, but Id say the air in the hull is changed out at WOT at the least 5 times in 10 seconds.......thats just a guess....some one that knows the formula figure it out for us........thanks.......

  4. #24
    rossnemo's Avatar
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    Here are a few air mods guys, at least this is what i came up with for my FZR...Front of seat seals very well against the front cowling, and the area on where the holes are drilled on the seat frame stays amazingly dry when riding.
    View of underside of the cowling shows the area the seat vents into, which exits around the upper steering stem.
    Vents on the seat are right where you need them, slightly behind the supercharger with the seat installed.
    After a 50 mile ocean ride there were only very, very light specs of salt on the front of the engine.
    The under hood mod requires seperating the inner liner from the actual hood. A 1 inch Unibit works wonders for good loe swiss cheezin it..
    Silicone bead was laid out as experimental and hopes were to help channel the water that may leak past the seat seal. Fact is no water has gotten past the seat yet.
    And also, you can hear the supercharger do its thing with much added clarity and volume..
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  5. #25
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XLT Chad View Post
    I sort of agree. Shimming the seat will give the air an exit. You still need an air entrance towards the front of the ski for flow to occur. Air has to enter the hull to be able to exit the hull.
    I does exit the hull through the exhaust, when running there is no air escaping from the hull, its all being pulled through (or in a SC application) forced through the motor and out through the exhaust..............

  6. #26
    Whats that whistling noise? jtskier11's Avatar
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    Im gonna install 2 flo-rites up directly behind the stock platic hull inlets. Along with a few other places. I really need a bag of those dam things. Want to get a sheet of Outerwear material and set up my own "high-flow hood."

  7. #27
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
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    Just shim the seat.....see if it helps. no sense of cutting the hull up if you dont have to.....raising the seat 1 to 2 mm will be equal to a few flow rights.........this trick has been around for years..........

  8. #28
    305coco's Avatar
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    you can add one more oem plastic vent tube on each side where the red dot is.
    mike this is what i was trying to tell you on the other thread.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #29
    Whats that whistling noise? jtskier11's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 305coco View Post
    you can add one more oem plastic vent tube on each side where the red dot is.
    mike this is what i was trying to tell you on the other thread.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Like that idea. The vents are only 5 bucks a pop versus the $20 of the dam flo-rites!

  10. #30
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    will the VXR Riva cold air system with water trap be easy enough mod to retro fit on the sho/fz series ???

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