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  1. #1
    Tbux2009
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    1999 SLH Problems either stator or fuel issues not sure HELP

    i have a 99 SLH and when i first got it used it ran great about 3 years ago. then last year it started having problems like bogging down and maybe loss of spark or lean on fuel.

    I have taken it to a polaris dealer for diagnosis and they think its the stator while other mechanics think its a fuel issue and not spark so now i dont know what to beleive or what to do.

    i have always done all the required yearly maintence and i completely rebuilt the carbs and same problem.

    I am now trying to decide whether to put in the new ignition update kit or just selling it all together.

    any help would be greatly appreciated

    thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The service techs can't decide whether it is fuel or ignition?

    What exactly is it doing, or not doing?

    Does the MFD display work properly?
    What RPM does it reach in the water? On the trailer?

    Correct spark plugs installed?

    You rebuilt the carbs - did you also replace the fuel lines and check/service the fuel selector valve?
    Did you use genuine OEM carb rebuild kits?

    No water or junk inside the fuel tank?

    New fuel filter?

    1999 two cylinder engine was susceptible to ignition system problems, which is why Polaris released an update kit. The kit includes a new CDI and a new stator. Price is a little over $300.

  3. #3
    Tbux2009
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    the techs said it was a bad stator

    its kind of hard to explain but it idles fine, if you were to give it full throttle it bogs right down so everything has to be eased into.
    also as im cruising along after awhile the rpms will slightly rise then fall down

    as for the carbs i used genuine oem parts and it still did the same thing.

    i also gave it a new fuel filter and checked to make sure the fuel tank was clean

    after doing some research on your link above i am starting to wonder about the fuel lines because i kinda think they are the grey tempo lines you said are nasty

    i have the original spark plugs in it and gapped to the specs i usaully replace them every year just to be safe

    as for the mfd i had to switch it out from an original 12 pin mfd to a 8 pin
    the old 12 pin went bad and i couldnt find a new good shape one

    that is the information that i have come up with and im gonna go see what fuel lines it has and switch those out if need be
    and if i still have the problem im gonna install that new ignition update kit

    any other ideas would be great thanks for the help it is much appreciated

  4. #4
    Tbux2009
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    Just checked the fuel lines and they look fine but the are the grey tempo lines

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbux2009 View Post
    Just checked the fuel lines and they look fine but they are the grey tempo lines
    Change the fuel lines.

    The catch is that if those lines have degraded internally then the goop may have contaminated the rebuilt carburetor. You need to decide whether you are OK with the risk that the 'clean' carbs now have junk in them again, or rebuild them again.

    Make sure that every fuel line connection between carbs and fuel tank is air tight. Sometimes an overtightened hose clamp can crush or split the hose. And sometimes the o-ring inside the fuel selector valve can develop an air leak, which allows bubbles into the fuel flow.

    Regarding the ignition, if you can find another CDI to swap in as a test, that might be helpful.

  6. #6
    Tbux2009
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    I just changed all the fuel lines and the carbs look very clean still. I haven't got to ride it yet though to see if anything has changed. I also was wondering if a cheaper brand of oil could make it mess up as well?? Instead of using Polaris oil??

    Thanks for the help!!!

  7. #7
    listen everyone who has this problameo ok its ur reed valve trust me i just fixed mine today runs like a top turn idle down1/2 from factory settings then clean water seperator and carb

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuvvh View Post
    listen everyone who has this problameo ok its ur reed valve trust me i just fixed mine today runs like a top turn idle down1/2 from factory settings then clean water seperator and carb
    Welcome to the Hulk.

    It is important to diagnose each engine individually. Apparently your engine needed reeds replaced.

    That does not mean other engines, even with similar symptoms, have the same problem cause and need the same repair.

  9. #9
    Tbux2009
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    k447 do you think it could be with the reed valves also???

    or cause im using a cheaper brand of oil it is still tcw-3 rated

    thanks

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbux2009 View Post
    ... could be with the reed valves also???

    or cause im using a cheaper brand of oil? it is still tcw-3 rated ...
    I would expect a professional shop would have checked for bad reeds. You can certainly check yourself. For really broken reeds there is typically a plume of fuel mist above the carb top (flame arrestor removed).

    A thorough reed check involves removing the carbs and intake manifold to remove and visually inspecting the reeds. Other than the labor to do this, it doesn't cost much. Might need some new gaskets when you put it back together.

    If you replace the gray Tempo fuel lines as suggested, it would also be worthwhile to rebuild the carbs and make really sure they are really clean inside and properly adjusted. While the carbs are off the engine it is not much more work to get the reeds out for inspection.

    Underlying all this is the possibility that the ignition system has a problem. That doesn't mean the fuel system doesn't also need attention.

    Review all the questions and points already raised in this thread. I think you can see what needs to be done, and what your options are for proceeding.

    Poor quality or incorrect oil can cause internal engine wear, especially on the cylinder walls and piston rings. This shows up as poor compression and reduced engine power. A compression check will tell you if there is a problem.

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