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  1. #1

    2001 Polaris Virage TX Problems after engine was rebuilt

    Like the title says I have a 2001 Polaris virage tx and last year I blew the #3 cylinder twice, so over the winter I had the engine rebuilt at pwc engine. The engine looked brand new when I got it back and went together without a problem. Went for the first bay test just the other day and the ski felt strong got right up on plane but after a half mile of riding the ski died and when I went to restart I just got a loud clunk as if the starter was engaging but engine wasn't turning over. So I waited for a minute and was able to get the ski to turn over and restart, again got on plane no problem but after a minute or two it died again and I had the same trouble restarting. So I towed the ski back to the dock where I started it again with little trouble and had it running for a while on a hose with no issues. Kinda stumped here and hoping that someone has some advice for me! Was thinking it could be over heating but after the second time it died I popped the seat and felt the engine, which wasn't super hot and the exhaust was relatively cool. Also I was running approx. a 30:1 mix on the fuel. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Compression test.

    Were the carburetors rebuilt with genuine OEM parts?

    Fuel lines replaced?

    Oil was properly mixed into the fuel?

    Did you cap off the oil feed nipples on the engine?

    Both pulse hoses from crankcase to MAG and PTO carbs in place and tight?

    Recheck fuel and pulse lines at carbs for correct connections.

  3. #3
    Forgot to mention I did do a compression check and all cylinders were 125 psi, carbs were taken off and cleaned out but didn't rebuild them due to the cost. I did change all the fuel lines from tank to valve, valve to filter and filter to engine, and yes I did plug the oil nipples on each of the carbs. The oil was mixed wit fuel last year at 40:1 and since I still had almost a full tank I estimated the amount of oil needed to make it 30:1 and just added it to the fuel tank. I'm almost certain I have the pulse lines hooked up properly but will go back to the manual and make sure I have them hooked up properly n make sure there tight. Just still don't understand why the engine seemed to lock up, could it have run lean, got hot n seized itself? Thx for the response

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Without actually taking the carbs apart they cannot be properly cleaned. The most important parts are the tiny internal passageways and rubber parts. A carb rebuild costs a lot less than another engine repair.

    Since the engine is a complete rebuild from a commercial operation, I would expect the engine rebuild was properly done. Piston seizure due to incorrect clearances could cause your problem, but I would hope they got it right!

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    Resident electronics hacker UnityRacing's Avatar
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    Impeller rubbing on the wear ring maybe?
    Gets hot and contracts around the impeller...
    Just a thought.

    Termostat maybe?

  6. #6
    Resident electronics hacker UnityRacing's Avatar
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    Also carbs are very easy to rebuild, and cheap too. A rebuild kit is around $30-60 per carb. Just count how many turns it takes to remove each screw, write that down so when you reassemble, you get it right the first time.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnityRacing View Post
    Impeller rubbing on the wear ring maybe?
    Gets hot and contracts around the impeller...
    It could be the bearings inside the jet pump, and easy enough to pull the jet pump off and check. Any grittiness, slop or roughness in the impeller rotation means replace the bearings. Worth checking, but not necessarily the likely cause.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnityRacing View Post
    ... count how many turns it takes to remove each screw, write that down so when you reassemble, you get it right the first time.
    Isn't the normal method to count the fractional and full turns IN until the adjustment screw is lightly seated, and record that number? Then remove the screw for cleaning.

    Counting the number of turns until the screw falls out seems much less exact.

  9. #9
    Also why did the piston burn down in the 1st place, I would think that they would have found the cause. Did they check your crankshaft bearings after they tore it down or did they just do the top end.

  10. #10
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Isn't the normal method to count the fractional and full turns IN until the adjustment screw is lightly seated, and record that number? Then remove the screw for cleaning.

    Yes Keith, you're correct.

    Counting the number of turns until the screw falls out seems much less exact.
    a

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