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  1. #1

    How much has to come apart? 2001 XLT1200 (pics attached)

    I have ordered the oil blockoff plate, and the Waveeater clip kit for this ski. I took off the big exhaust bit that is attached to the header (?) and am just starting to see the carbs- still a mess of bits. I'd like to have it ready to go when the parts arrive but don't want to remove to much. Any how-to's for this mod for this ski? Videos? I'm used to working on things (race cars, atv's, bikes) but this thing is different... not much room! Attached a pic of the other toy.

  2. #2
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    United States
    you have to pull the plastic box off the front to get to the oil pump it is just one bolt

  3. #3
    I'm in the middle of doing the same Mods. The Wave eater clips is pretty ease they just snap in.

    you have to pull the plastic box off the front to get to the oil pump it is just one bolt
    The Gpr I'm working on came without the plastic box and the 90 degree elbow to the F/a
    Is it OK for me to run with out those pieces

    I'm trying to get by without going to A/M F/a and carb re-jetting

  4. #4
    Got the stinger off, oil pump removed, oil tank drained. Holy cow I'm glad I am doing the premix mod- how the oil lines stayed on is a mystery. They were sooo loose- you just would not believe it. One good wave jump and I'm sure one would have come off.
    I also decided to do the d-plate cat removal while its all apart.

    So now just waiting on parts!

    I did read somewhere that you should put some oil in the cyliners as it will take a few seconds to get the premix gas through the lines. True?

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Hillsborough, North Carolina
    I always start any work in there by first removing the exhaust pipe (stinger?). Think I'll try it your way next time!

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Lake Norman, NC
    I have an '02 XLT12 and have been dismantling all the exhaust sections to repair the piston/cylinder damage results of one of my oil lines coming off #1. I was surprised to find that the oil lines aren't more securely attached. I barely touched #3 oil line, which looked to be attached and it fell off with slight pressure. I like the oetiker 'ear' clamp idea I read on another thread for replacing oil lines & connections when I put it back together. I have the tool and use them on my BMW motorcycle fuel lines and they work very well. However I will evaluate them on the PWC before I 'sew' it all back up and will switch to the oil blockoff to premix option if not satisfied. Since it has been kind of a PITA to remove so much stuff to get down in there, I too, will be doing the WE clips, cat con/D plate conversion/sensor chip/plug, and 3 carb rebuild kits...while doing the top end job. $$$, but after 9 years since buying new and no money outside of gas/oil spent...I guess I can't complain. BTW...the service manual along with the online Yamaha OEM (exploded) parts fiche diagrams have been very helpful.

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