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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    in my house

    2001 RX only doing 6000-6100 RPM and 50mph?

    I have owned my ski since new and to my memory, I have never adjusted the red cap on the rave valves.

    I started having an issue where the ski wouldn't hit the top end I'm used to. Almost like something it stopping it from continuing to accelerate. Before PPG rebuilt my engine several times, it used to get 7000 RPM's. Before they rebuilt it and did a "Level 1" performance upgrade. Now I can only get 6100 rpms, and the ski only goes 50mph tops. It used to go 65mph (GPS'd)

    The engine compression was tested last month and I am told it was correct within proper tolerances. Before I pulled off the RAVE valves today, I couldn't locate my tester to verify myself. Engine sounds solid and strong, no metal shavings in the spark plugs, crank sounds solid as well. Spark plugs look good as always. No oil leaking from anywhere. When I removed the RAVE valves I looked into the pistons and didn't see any scoring.

    I did a clean up project on the ski before season, and at that time I cleaned the rave valves. That was about 20 hours ago. However, I did not rebuild the rave valves because I read in the manual they do not have to rebuilt, only cleaned. I therefore just regularly clean them. Neither valve is leaking, and have never leaked. Suspecting the rave valves not opening all the way, I pulled them again today, and they are nasty once again, really gummed up, a lot of carbon again (including pics) I used to run Seadoo fully synthetic, but because of the price increase, I switched to Amsoil when I put the ski back in the water at the beginning of season. I was told this would actually be cleaner running. I read on posts the red caps should be flush, but mine were were turned half way in. See pics.

    Could these caps and build up alone be my problem with the engine not accelerating past 6100? I.E., the caps turned too far in are preventing the rave valves from opening up far enough to pull higher RPMs? When I pushed on the valves themselves before cleaning them they moved up and down and slightly left / right as well and air comes out of the hoses attached. The front one seems more gummed up than the rear. See attached. Please ignore discoloration on engine, it was left that way from PPG's rebuilds. I did notice something I thought strange. When i blew into the outlet on one, it pushed the valve out, but on the other, it sucked it in? I thought both should do the same thing. There was also a little left / right play with the valve itself on both as well so I decided to go ahead and rebuild both of them. I purchased the kit with the bellow, gasket and orings, and started pulling apart the valves. After removing the bellows, I noticed one of the rubber bellows was compressed in unlike the other one, and one of the orings was cut. I wish I knew which one this was originally, because it may explain why one sucked in and the other pushed out. After cleaning off the valves themselves, I believe I have scoring and should just go ahead and replace the valves as well. (See more pics). This ski has about 500 hours on all the components not "fixed" by PPG.

    I did have to rebuild the pump entirely about 5 hours ago. My cone melted and allowed water into the pump. I bought a whole new pump casing (came with a new wear ring) and all new parts. So I know the pump is all good.

    Once i put everything back together, if I still don't have the high RPM's, I will do a compression test, and test the RAVE Valve selenoid. I have read that I can test the selenoid by pulling off the rave valve caps, removing the springs, and seeing if I pull the higher RPMs, although it is not the recommended method. The other method can be done on a dock or on the trailer with a 12V source to the selenoid.

    Please look at the enclosed pics and tell me your thoughts and/or advice. I think I'm on the right track but I may be off.
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  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    PCB, FL
    I have had a few rave issues myself so here are my thoughts:
    -make sure not to over tighten the plastic caps with the o-ring that secure the blade to the valve body. They can crack and cause a leak. I have had to replace one of these myself.
    -if you ride in salt water, check the orifice where the air line comes into the valve body. I had some salt build up nearly block one of the holes and caused a similar issue to what you are seeing.
    The ski should do a self test when you kill the engine. You will hear two cycles of the rave valves that sound like whoosh-click, whoosh-click. Depending on which sound you do not hear will determine if it could be a pump, line, diaphragm, oring or spring, buildup.
    The red caps are for setting preload on the return spring. IIRC, the less the preload, the earlier the valves activate.

    btw... I have to clean my raves about twice a season with XPS2. I just bought a gallon of Interceptor once this tank of oil runs out due to price and reports that it runs cleaner. I hate to hear yours is gumming up more with Amsoil. Are your running Interceptor or Dominator?

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