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  1. #1
    slothman's Avatar
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    question about changing oil

    Instead of sucking the oil out of the oil tank, can I just disconnect the oil hose from the tank and crank the engine? I have read that the oil drains back into the engine so there is no need to drain the tank first. I don't have the special oil suction tool.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    There have been a few threads discussing Weber engine oil extraction methods.

    A Search might turn up the info you need. Advanced Search button is near top right of your screen.

  3. #3
    slothman's Avatar
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    Yes, I have read the instructions posted on your site. However it is still unclear if you MUST drain the tank, versus just pulling the hose and cranking the engine.

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    slothman's Avatar
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    Does anyone have a picture of the main relay that has to be pulled before cranking the engine?

  5. #5

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    right next to ecu on back next to black rubber hose
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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by slothman View Post
    Instead of sucking the oil out of the oil tank, can I just disconnect the oil hose from the tank and crank the engine? I have read that the oil drains back into the engine so there is no need to drain the tank first. I don't have the special oil suction tool.
    I have done every single oil change like this on my MSX with no issues. I do have an extractor, but the crank method is substantially faster and you have to crank it anyway...so might as well just get it over with. I have a soda bottle that I leave in my garage just for the task.

    I do about 7-8 second bursts and give it about 30 secs between each one. The whole job with filter change takes me about 15-20 mins.

  7. #7
    slothman's Avatar
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    thanks guys....got the oil changed last night. All I gotta say is ....that sh1t was black! lol.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slothman View Post
    thanks guys....got the oil changed last night. All I gotta say is ....that sh1t was black! lol.
    With the stock ECU you will need to change the oil frequently, as the stock ECU runs the engine very rich. This causes fuel dilution/contamination of the oil via piston blow by.

    One of the reasons the ECU reflash is recommended.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by slothman View Post
    thanks guys....got the oil changed last night. All I gotta say is ....that sh1t was black! lol.
    I am a dirtbike and streetbike guy...the ski is just family fun for us (so FAR from an expert)! I thought the exact same thing on my first MSX oil change. The ski was used, but had a dealer change just 9 hours prior to us getting it. Anyway, I was stunned at the condition of the oil. That all being said, over the years, I learned that oil appearance has very little to do with its ability to protect your motor.

    I knew we would be keeping this ski for quite some time, so went ahead and did oil analysis twice and was assured that my oil and interval were just fine. I dont want this to morph into an oil thread, but I do not use Polaris oil and decided to got with a very proven high detergent oil that I have had huge success with in my very hammered on bikes. I strongly encourage analysis on anything with a motor (sans your mower of course)...it allows you to deal in absolutes than in opinions which are pretty strong regardless of the forum. For instance, I was dead set on 5K oil changes on my wife's Saab and after two analysis, I now know that 10K is absolutely within reason and still pretty conservative.

    That leaves me lots of extra money to buy Polaris electrical parts....grrrrrrrrrrr....

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by illin View Post
    I am a dirtbike and streetbike guy...the ski is just family fun for us (so FAR from an expert)! I thought the exact same thing on my first MSX oil change. The ski was used, but had a dealer change just 9 hours prior to us getting it. Anyway, I was stunned at the condition of the oil. That all being said, over the years, I learned that oil appearance has very little to do with its ability to protect your motor.

    I knew we would be keeping this ski for quite some time, so went ahead and did oil analysis twice and was assured that my oil and interval were just fine. I dont want this to morph into an oil thread, but I do not use Polaris oil and decided to got with a very proven high detergent oil that I have had huge success with in my very hammered on bikes. I strongly encourage analysis on anything with a motor (sans your mower of course)...it allows you to deal in absolutes than in opinions which are pretty strong regardless of the forum. For instance, I was dead set on 5K oil changes on my wife's Saab and after two analysis, I now know that 10K is absolutely within reason and still pretty conservative.

    That leaves me lots of extra money to buy Polaris electrical parts....grrrrrrrrrrr....
    I think as long as you are using fully synthetic 15-50 or 20-50 you will be fine. However, I would not use non-synthetic oil in this high powered Weber engine. Apparently the metal in the cyclinder walls will start to flake off with low grade oil. I think it's worth spending the extra $15 to get Mobil one synthetic. If the Indy cars use it, you KNOW it can handle high friction and power.

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