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  1. #1

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    96 slx finally together again WOOOO HOOOOOOO

    got the slx back together did break n yesterday on the hose took to lake today ran 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and ran like a champ going back for more tomorrow going to finish this tank and prob 1 more tank at 32:1 then go to 40:1 the 1050 is my baby and the wife and kids will enjoy the slx THANKS AGAIN for all the help this site is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


  2. #2
    WFO 4 LIFE nitrosportman's Avatar
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    you did break in on the hose??? how long did you run it on the hose i've been told 2-3 minutes max on the hose or you risk burning up seals

  3. #3

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    was told by local marine mechanic it wouldnt b problem sure hope he was rite what a jackass move on my part

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    How long did it run on the garden hose?

    Was the drive shaft and jet pump installed?

    Was the engine just idling?

  5. #5

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    was told to let it idle with no throttle run 1min cool off 2min cool 5 min cool 10 min and it would b fine so that what i did and yes jet pump was in

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shugart99 View Post
    was told to let it idle with no throttle
    run 1min cool off
    2min cool
    5 min cool
    10 min

    and it would b fine so that what i did and yes jet pump was in
    So it ran for five minutes on the hose, then it ran for ten minutes on the hose?

    That is a long run time for the through-hull and jet pump stator seals when dry (hull out of the water). The seal lips may have been compromised by the friction heat.

    The issue is that if the jet pump stator seals have been compromised water will get past the seals into the bearings, and bearing failure will follow.

    Different people have different approaches to engine break in, but the common theme is that the point of the exercise is to properly bed the piston rings against the cylinder walls. This process requires the engine to be producing power under load. That also creates combustion chamber pressures that force the piston rings to wear against the honed roughness of the cylinder walls.

    This friction wears the ring surfaces and smooths the cylinder walls. Once the cylinder walls have become smooth there is no more break in wear of the piston rings. The ring sealing (whatever degree it is) does not significantly improve once the cylinder walls have broken in.

    That is why the commonly recommended break in process involves in-water cycling of the engine through progressively larger throttle levels in between cool down cycles. This heat cycles the pistons (which is important) while at the same time working the piston rings against the cylinder walls to maximize the rate of piston ring conformity to the cylinder walls.

    In your case, I would suggest you proceed with the proper break in process as if the long engine idling 'break in' had not happened.

    As for the drive shaft and jet pump seals, they may or may not still be serviceable. Inspection or replacement would answer that question.

    For the through-hull seals water will leak into the bearing interior and then into the hull along the drive shaft.

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