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  1. #1

    MSX 140 2003 will not start after sitting for 16 months

    Hello, I am new to your Forum. I purchased New, a 2003 MSX 140. It was our Dream
    'Bike'. I have 41.7 Hrs on it. It has started right up and would run at speed, at the Colorado River, AZ. and has given us many hours on Fun.

    However on the last couple of 'Runs', 16 months ago it would hesitate on acceleration, and then quickly regain power and ran fine.

    I covered it and garaged it for 16 months and got it out on Saturday. The Battery was dead and would not charge so I purchased new one. Fuel tank is/was about 1/2 full. Oil, also reads 3/4 full.

    I was very surprised when it It would not start. It Turns over fine, but not a 'pop', nothing but a beautiful 'Blue MSX 140 turning over at a rapid rate, lol.

    I read some posts on this site , and tried the schrader valve pressure test while cranking the engine, '0' pressure. I put 'pin' through 'Brown wire on fuel pump, hooked up alligator clip wire, and grounded it to the engine, and pump does not run. any suggestions?

    This is my first and only issue with the MSX 140 in 7 years.


  2. #2
    Tow-in-Barrels's Avatar
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    did you fog the engine well before storing? add stabilize to the gas and run it to get the stabilize into the carbs? important and you did not mention doing them.

    old gas not only doesn't burn well but it gums up carbs, fuel lines, and even the pump if it sits long enough. I would give the whole fuel system a once over first thing before i tried to start it again.

  3. #3
    That is a Bad Habit of mine, Nope, I did not stabilize the gas, and I'm definitely old enough to know better ,lol. I checked the fuel pump Fuse and it is fine, I used a test light', and I do have power at the Fuel fuse. Also, when I grounded the 'Brown wire on top of the Fuel Pump, I used a test light and I do have power at the Brown wire on Fuel Pump. Also, each time I have turned over the engine , and/or ran one of the above tests, I have depressed the schrader valve, and not a drop of fuel comes out, not a drop, no pressure,,,zip. I did put in some additional new fuel, 10 gals. But if the fuel pump is 'Frozen', 'Clogged', would that cause it to not work at all? Maybe a few taps', would un-stick it?? I'll wait for a reply before 'Tapping' it with 'Sledge' lol
    Last edited by Blue MSX 140; 07-06-2011 at 04:54 PM.

  4. #4
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue MSX 140 View Post
    That is a Bad Habit of mine, Nope, I did not stabilize the gas, and I'm definitely old enough to know better ,lol. I checked the fuel pump Fuse and it is fine, I used a test light', and I do have power at the Fuel fuse. Also, when I grounded the 'Brown on top of the Fuel Pump, I used a test light and I do have power at the Brown wire on Fuel Pump. Also, each time I have turned over the engine , and/or ran one of the above tests, I have depressed the schrader valve, and not a drop of fuel comes out, not a drop, no pressure,,,zip. I did put in some additional new fuel, 10 gals. But if the fuel pump is 'Frozen', 'Clogged', would that cause it to not work at all? Maybe a few taps', would un-stick it?? I'll wait for a reply before 'Tapping' it with 'Sledge' lol
    for piece of mind, i would remove and test the pump. i could be wrong, but the think the type of pump is a roller-vein type (common) but in my experience with the high flow injection roller-vein pumps, they dont like being left (sat unused) there is a high chance its "stuck" and yes, some times a tap is all that is needed to get it going. ive also found that the tinyest bit of debris can clog, or seriously restrict the flow. (often filter are run after the pumps.

    if you remove the pump, atleats it gives piece of mind.

    good luck.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    It does sound like you need to pull that fuel pump. My signature links (Ficht) show what it looks like inside, and even an alternative to the genuine Polaris OEM part (although the genuine Polaris replacement pumps work well enough).

    Do you have spark?

    These engines really like fresh spark plugs, but you can only use genuine NGK PZFR6H spark plugs, no substitutes.

  6. #6
    slothman's Avatar
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    the gas is most certainly bad. I would replace it with a full tank of fresh 91 octane.

    Also check compression and spark.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk

    It does sound like you need to pull that fuel pump. My signature links (Ficht) show what it looks like inside, and even an alternative to the genuine Polaris OEM part (although the genuine Polaris replacement pumps work well enough).

    Do you have spark?

    These engines really like fresh spark plugs, but you can only use genuine NGK PZFR6H spark plugs, no substitutes.
    I will check the spark, and your signature links (Ficht) and install the fresh plugs.

    Quote Originally Posted by slothman View Post
    the gas is most certainly bad. I would replace it with a full tank of fresh 91 octane.

    Also check compression and spark.
    I did add, (to the old gas, 16 months in the tank), 10 new gals of Chevron 91 octane and a small bottle of injector cleaner (recommended by a friend out here), made by Lucas Oil/5.25 oz. fuel injector cleaner, (Part Number: 10020) I should have removed the old gas before adding the new. I am at the Colo. river, AZ and my mind, at 115 degrees and 90% Humidity (at least it feels like that) is 'Not working' along with the MSX 140. lol

    Thank you for the great posts, warm welcome and help. You have a great site and I appreciate the Help.
    Thank you

  8. #8
    I have a few questions in the form of a summary, of sorts.

    If I drain the fuel tank on my MSX 140, put in fresh 91 octane fuel, add a 'Injector Cleaner' (Lucas Oil/5.25 oz. fuel injector cleaner, (Part Number: 10020) or Chevron Techron Concentrate Fuel System Cleaner 20 oz. Let it 'set' for a few days, and then cycle' the pump on and off, while 'taping' the top of the fuel pump with a small rubber mallet, will that in anyone's experience 'Un-stick' or get the fuel pump working again?

    Also, when I attach the lanyard to the 'stop switch' does that provide power to the Fuel pump? or does the fuel pump 'get power' when the 'start button' is pressed?

    ? Also, if the fuel Pump is stuck', due to 'Old Fuel' (of 16 months), can turning the 'power' on and off to the pump cause it to 'Over strain' and cause additional electrical problems in the pump or blow a fuse, or ?

    I have read many posts on many sites and 'Today's Fuel' seems to be a major issue, along with owners like me that let fuel sit in a tank for 16 months without fuel stabilizer, lol. But, even when fuel stabilizer is added, some say,( 'boating sites in general' ) that any 'Fuel Stabilizer' is only effective/good for 3-6 months, others have drained their fuel takes for extended storage and still had 'stuck/frozen/locked up in-tank electric fuel pumps, others run stabilizer through fuel system (with fuel) for 20 minutes and then drain the tank, and in short 100's and 100's of boaters still have frozen/gummed up 'In-tank Electric Fuel Pumps when they get their wave runners, boats out for the summer.

    It seems in our current,'There is a Pill or Additive for ever ill Society/World', that there would be an 'Additive or a Chemical Fix', to getting 'Stuck Fuel Pump's' ,,, Un-Stuck. lol. If there was a Blown Fuse, a Frayed wire, a shorted out/aged motor, or??? that would be some what logical. But 'Old Fuel' gumming up a 41.7 hrs. Immaculate MSX 140, Beautiful Blue Polaris Watercraft??? is frustrating and sad to say the least.

    To spend $300-$500 + labor to install a new Fuel pump is challenging, and the space around the tank and pump is very tight and I have large/un-experienced hands to do it myself. I hope that does not sound, 'Whinny', (well maybe a little, LOL), but 'We the People', need a Chemical Additive' invented to free-up' a perfectly good fuel pump, that sat to long in 'Modern Corn Starch' Gasoline. And I always use Chevron 91 Octane.

    Blue MSX 140

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    If whacking the fuel pump to loosen it up is going to work, I think it would have to be tapping right on the metal fuel pump motor, not the plastic 'cap' of the fuel pump unit. The actual pump motor is way down near the bottom of the tank, not right under the top cap.

    It is a pain to get at the in-tank electric fuel pump in many of these hulls, not just the MSX or even just Polaris.

    My approach is to purchase non-ethanol gasoline as much as possible (which means 91 octane only in my region, and only from certain refiners). Especially when the machine may be sitting for more than a couple of weeks, and definitely before storage.

    Before extended storage I use a double dose of the Marine grade Sta-Bil product, but other brands of Marine grade stabilizer should work too.

    In fact, I will pour in a normal dose of Sta-Bil with every fill up if I don't know how soon I will next be using the machine. That way I know the fuel will not cause problems if it happens to sit for a while.

    I prefer to store it with the tank 95% or more full with non-ethanol, stabilized, premium octane fuel. No worries about water condensation and octane degradation over time. It will still be above the desired 89 octane or better level for these engines.

    Nothing is 100% effective regarding fuel quality and stability, and sometimes a fuel pump will just fail anyways.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The EMM controls power to the fuel pump.

    When you press Start the EMM checks for lanyard in place, and a few other things. If all is correct then the EMM grounds the Brown wire which should cause the fuel pump to run.

    You can manually force power to the fuel pump by inserting a thin sewing pin into the Brown wire, and connecting the pin to engine ground. Be careful not to damage the thin copper wire strands inside the Brown wire.

    As always, be careful of electric sparks when work in around gasoline. Ventilation and caution are your friends.

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