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  1. #1

    Where can I get replacements for these plastic screws to hold on my front shield?

    I have a 95 Polaris SL650 and 2 of the plastic screw-like things that hold the front shield on are broken - see the below images:





    Where can I get replacements for these and/or is there anything I can get from a plain old hardware store that will work? I'm not sure when they broke - I just bought the Ski recently and don't remember them being broken but some jerkoff pulled in front of me on the freeway last weekend and I had to slam on my brakes - thinking when the ski jammed forward into the wheel that the trailer strap goes through (which is what caused those 2 black marks) it pushed the shield hard enough to break them.

    Anyway, I'm guessing there is a really cheap/easy way to replace them I just have no idea where to look. Thanks in advance for any assistance!


  2. #2
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    I used stainless steel flat head machine screws with a finish washer, with stainless locknuts and a washer on the under side. Worked great, looks good, and is easily removable. I did the same thing with the long rivets used from the factory on the rear edge of the front bumper.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Bow roller is normally positioned under the nose of the ski, between rub rail and bow eye.

    For exactly the reason you describe - under emergency braking the bow roller holds the ski back while the winch strap holds it down.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Bow roller is normally positioned under the nose of the ski, between rub rail and bow eye.

    For exactly the reason you describe - under emergency braking the bow roller holds the ski back while the winch strap holds it down.
    Yeah I'm not sure how to accomplish this though, as the roller is high up - the guy I bought the double trailer with the skis from said the trailer was made for larger skis - both the seadoo and polaris I have on it have the roller level with, or above the nose. Is there any way to reposition this or would I have to buy a whole new pair of 'stalks' for the trailer that sit lower?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    I used stainless steel flat head machine screws with a finish washer, with stainless locknuts and a washer on the under side. Worked great, looks good, and is easily removable. I did the same thing with the long rivets used from the factory on the rear edge of the front bumper.
    Good tips! Although, I'm not sure how you accomplished that on the front screws I put a picture of - I don't see any hole underneath, it looks like the plastic screws screw into the hull or something with no bottom outlet. For the long screws on the side, I see exactly what you're saying, and I think I'm going to go buy some machine screws to use for back there. I ended up calling a local polaris ATV dealer on a whim and asking and apparently that part# is shared with some ATVs and he was able to get a pack of 10 for $3, so I'll try them out in the mean time

    Edit: Also how much are you selling your 94 SL650 for? I just bought the pair of jet skis and trailer and wanted to sell the polaris and buy a bigger 3 seater for my wife/daughter, trying to figure out how much to ask for a 95 SL650STD - compression is 127 on all 3 cylinders and everything else appears in good working order - I have no idea what to ask though, thinking maybe $800 without a trailer...I know it probably depends on the area - I see tons of jet skis for sale on my local craigslist and even the 89-91 are asking $800+ for running skis!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by crackofdawn View Post
    Yeah I'm not sure how to accomplish this though, as the roller is high up - the guy I bought the double trailer with the skis from said the trailer was made for larger skis - both the seadoo and polaris I have on it have the roller level with, or above the nose. Is there any way to reposition this or would I have to buy a whole new pair of 'stalks' for the trailer that sit lower?

    They are adjustable on most trailers. What brand is yours? Can you post a pic?

  7. #7
    I don't have access to the trailer right now as I'm at work, but it says Wesco on the side. The winch mounts aren't adjustable - I did check last night. I can move them forward or backwards but the length/angle isn't adjustable so no matter what they will be the same height. I didn't look to see if I could raise the runners at all though, I'll have to check that when I get home. I'll post pictures of the winch mounts when I get home.

  8. #8
    Nevermind, I realized there were 2 parts that moved! The post itself which could move towards the front or back of the trailer (obviously this wont do anything), and then the piece the winch was attached to which actually moves up and down the post. I moved both attachments down as far as they would go and they were just able to go underneath the skis. The only question I have now is where the strap itself goes - does it go directly under the roller, or under the plastic piece between the roller and the post ? (basically my post has 3 bolts - one right above the base holding it on, one midway between the base and the roller, and one going through the roller - the middle bolt has a plastic piece around it and the strap runs under that - should I instead run the strap above that but directly under the roller?)

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crackofdawn View Post
    Nevermind, I realized there were 2 parts that moved!

    The post itself which could move towards the front or back of the trailer (obviously this wont do anything)...

    ... I moved both attachments down as far as they would go and they were just able to go underneath the skis.

    The only question I have now is where the strap itself goes - does it go directly under the roller, or under the plastic piece between the roller and the post ? (basically my post has 3 bolts - one right above the base holding it on, one midway between the base and the roller, and one going through the roller - the middle bolt has a plastic piece around it and the strap runs under that ...
    That plastic sleeve on the middle bolt is actually a simple 'roller' for the strap to go under. So the strap pulls 'down' on the bow eye of the PWC, holding the hull not only tight to the main bow roller, but also preventing the bow from bouncing or shifting upwards while trailering over bumps in the road.

    Moving the entire winch tower forwards or back is how you adjust the weight balance of the trailer. You want about 7-10% of the total weight of PWC plus trailer to be on the ball coupler. This is called the tongue weight. Too light on the tongue can cause the trailer to sway and jig around while towing.

    You also want the trailer frame to be close to level/horizontal when towing. Again this helps with trailer stability, especially during emergency braking and highway speed towing. If your trailer is not level you correct this by changing the ball height on the tow vehicle.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    That plastic sleeve on the middle bolt is actually a simple 'roller' for the strap to go under. So the strap pulls 'down' on the bow eye of the PWC, holding the hull not only tight to the main bow roller, but also preventing the bow from bouncing or shifting upwards while trailering over bumps in the road.

    Moving the entire winch tower forwards or back is how you adjust the weight balance of the trailer. You want about 7-10% of the total weight of PWC plus trailer to be on the ball coupler. This is called the tongue weight. Too light on the tongue can cause the trailer to sway and jig around while towing.

    You also want the trailer frame to be close to level/horizontal when towing. Again this helps with trailer stability, especially during emergency braking and highway speed towing. If your trailer is not level you correct this by changing the ball height on the tow vehicle.
    Hey thanks for the advice I have the straps under the plastic sleeve so that is good. I would say the tongue weight feels about right - it's just heavy/light enough that I can lift it with two hands to put it on my trailer ball but it's a tough lift. The angle is ever so slightly upwards but not hugely so. I have a ram 1500 and a 2" drop on my ball - I could do a 4" drop which would probably make the trailer dead level.

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