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  1. #1

    Unhappy Ultra 250x Engine Re-Build

    Hi there,

    I have been reading some of the threads on this forum for a few weeks now relating to Ultra 250 engine problems ranging from bearings, conrods, etc.

    I have a 2008 Ultra 250x with only 68 hours on the clock. About 4 weeks ago, the ski broke down on me - spitting out black smoke, a burning smell, and then conking out. I had to call the coastguard and got towed back to shore. I also noticed that oil was leaking from the back of the ski.

    Having had the ski diagnosed, and the engine dismantled - I have a list of parts that are presumably needed;

    Part
    Cost New ($)
    Cost New (£)
    Customs
    VAT
    Total
    x1 cylinder head complete with valves and tappit shins
    $1,515.00
    £966.13
    £26.09
    £198.44
    £1,190.65
    x1 conrod
    $122.00
    £77.80
    £2.10
    £15.98
    £95.88
    x1 piston with pin
    $57.00
    £36.35
    £0.98
    £7.47
    £44.80
    x1 engine block
    $805.81
    £513.87
    £13.87
    £105.55
    £633.29
    piston rings x4?
    $140.00
    £89.28
    £2.41
    £18.34
    £110.03
    drive coupling - to jet pump unit
    $216.52
    £138.08
    £3.73
    £28.36
    £170.17
    head gasket
    $73.00
    £46.55
    £1.26
    £9.56
    £57.37
    Big End Bearings (X




    £104.00
    Main Bearings (X2)




    £84.00
    rocket cover gasket




    £40.94
    exhaust manifold gasket




    £23.09
    inlet manifold gasket




    £11.59


    I have sourced new parts on a US site ‘http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/’ which is the cheapest I have come across if needing to purchase new. The list above mostly reflect prices from this site.

    You will see that I need to import these over to the UK.

    The second cyclinder was the one to go - and from what I have been told - it is a dropped valve that has caused the damage.

    Having spoken to another engineer, I am planning on getting the liner replaced in my existing block - saving some cost. I have also been advised that there is no real damage on the bearings, so should not be necessary to purchase. Other than the head gasket - I have been told the other gaskets are not necessary, and can be reused.

    I have a couple of questions I am hoping you can provide some advice on;

    1) Does anyone know of cheaper places to purchase the parts from?
    2) Does anyone have any idea whay might have caused a dropped valve? I dont want to spend several thousand fixing it for it to happen again!?
    3) are there any known problem parts, that I should look to upgrade at the same time? e.g. newer replacement parts in later models. I have read about other ski's with conrod / bearing failures?

    It appears the cylinder head on the US site above is a replacement part since the 2007/2008 models.

    Any help and advice would be really appreciated!

    Thanks in advance.


  2. #2
    What exactly happened on the dropped valve? Any pics to show?

    What P/N Cyl Head are you ordering?

  3. #3
    I got a pic of the cylinder head and block - will post them up this evening. The cylinder head listed is hyperlinked to the site I mentioned - seems to be the current replacement part?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Pricy147 View Post
    I got a pic of the cylinder head and block -
    The cylinder head listed is hyperlinked to the site I mentioned
    Pic of the cyl head and block would not show what caused this mess. They are just victims.
    The failed valve holds a key to this mess.

    Your link is broken and can't see it.
    There are two P/N for the cyl head and you want to make sure you order the latest P/N.

  5. #5
    Here is the part number;

    11008-3711 HEAD-COMP-CYLINDER


    Thanks

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Pricy147 View Post
    11008-3711 HEAD-COMP-CYLINDER
    That's the latest, good one!

  7. #7
    Hi

    Does anyone suggest I upgrade the connecting rods to the R&D ones?

    http://www.rd-performance.com/catalo...necting%20Rods

    I notice the Kawasaki rods seem to have been upgraded - new part number is 13251-3702-II.

    Would the new Kawaski ones be ok? Or should I go for the R&D. Im less interested in performance - I just want reliability, and want to try my best to ensure the engine doesnt go bang again!

    Would you recommend I upgrade all 4 - even though there is no damage to the others?

    Thanks

  8. #8
    Banned User
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    Stock rods, 260 pistons and 2010 head set up. Will work great for u

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Pricy147 View Post
    Im less interested in performance - I just want reliability, and want to try my best to ensure the engine doesnt go bang again!

    Would you recommend I upgrade all 4 - even though there is no damage to the others?
    > Kawi factory original con-rods have been used on modded engine that makes 350+ hp and no problem. Your engine went "bang" because the valve dropped, not because the con-rod suddenly broke by itself. Again the rod was just one of the victims of the failure. You need to focus on what caused the failure - dropped valve.

    > Stronger rod doesn't "always" mean it's better. If you have a hydrolock situation, do you want just a rod to bend/break or do you want the crank to twist? Which one would be more expensive, just one rod or complete crank? Something's got to give - like a fuse, or even bigger damage can occur.

    > It's always better to change all 4 parts on roataing mechanism in case there is a difference in mass/weight that can throw off the balance.

    > Manufacturers change the P/N not only to "upgrade" but also to downgrade to save manufacturing cost such as for cheaper material or whatever. So don't just assume different P/N means an automatic upgrade.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by meangreenman View Post
    > Kawi factory original con-rods have been used on modded engine that makes 350+ hp and no problem. Your engine went "bang" because the valve dropped, not because the con-rod suddenly broke by itself. Again the rod was just one of the victims of the failure. You need to focus on what caused the failure - dropped valve.

    > Stronger rod doesn't "always" mean it's better. If you have a hydrolock situation, do you want just a rod to bend/break or do you want the crank to twist? Which one would be more expensive, just one rod or complete crank? Something's got to give - like a fuse, or even bigger damage can occur.

    > It's always better to change all 4 parts on roataing mechanism in case there is a difference in mass/weight that can throw off the balance.

    > Manufacturers change the P/N not only to "upgrade" but also to downgrade to save manufacturing cost such as for cheaper material or whatever. So don't just assume different P/N means an automatic upgrade.
    The reason I am asking about changing the conrods is not because it has caused my engine failure - but because I know they have snapped on quite a few Ultra's and seem to be a known weakness.

    I dont want to spend several thousand fixing it - only to find a rod then ends up snapping taking out the crank and bottom part of the engine - meaning the ski, and the parts I have forked out for now are write offs.

    One of the blades on the drive coupling has also snapped.

    What photographs do you think would help? Can anything be identified through photo's?

    Thanks

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