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  1. #1

    99 slth wont turn over

    We have a 99 slth that we're trying to get going. It hasn't been used since '07 and was used primarily used in salt water, although i think it only saw fresh water in '07.

    I tried to turn it over today and check for spark but it wouldnt. There is no battery attached but i was using a jumper pack( has a 12aH battery). Not only would the engine not turn over, but the connection where i connected the jumper pack to the battery ground cable would start to smoke. I checked with a multimeter and the voltage would drop from about 14v down to 8 or 9v.

    do I have some kind of wiring problem here, or could it simply be that my jumper pack doesn't hold enough charge anymore? I know these engines need at least 10.6v to have spark, but what do they need to turn over?


  2. #2
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    I'd remove plugs and see if you can turn over by hand. If not, I'd remove pump and try again. Might be seized engine and/or pump

  3. #3
    I got a pair of channel locks on the driveshaft but was unable to turn it. Should this be fairly easy to spin or do I just need to get some more torque on it.

    I'll have to look into removing the pump. not really sure how to go about doing that

    tried turning it over with the starter with no plugs in. Voltage went more from 13 to around 5v when i tried. connections to battery cables started smoking, wiring from jumper pack got really hot and it started to melt the tips on my multimeter

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    slothman's Avatar
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    first off, I don't believe your jumper pack has enough cold cranking amps or enough juice to crank an engine. You need to get a REAL PWC battery installed. Don't crank that engine if there is old gas in the system (anything over 2 months is probably bad).

    If you do get it to turn over, the next step would be a compression check. If it has good compression you are good to go.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by slothman View Post
    first off, I don't believe your jumper pack has enough cold cranking amps or enough juice to crank an engine. You need to get a REAL PWC battery installed. Don't crank that engine if there is old gas in the system (anything over 2 months is probably bad).

    If you do get it to turn over, the next step would be a compression check. If it has good compression you are good to go.
    Really? It'll start car engines, I figured it would be fine for a pwc. Good point with the gas though. Im just trying to get it to turn over, not start, but the gas in it is over 3 years old and that could cause plenty of problems.

    Could i use jumper cables and a car battery to try it, or should i just wait until i get a new battery for it?

  6. #6
    slothman's Avatar
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    I dont think I would use a car battery either, that might have TOO much amperage and fry something. The ignition system is designed for smaller batteries. PWC batteries are about $50 dollars new, and you might as well get one if you plan on keeping the ski.

    If the gas is in fact three years old, I wouldn't crank the motor at all. You might as well drain all of the gas, and rebuild the carbs. I guarantee that old gas has already plugged up the carbs with varnish and gunk.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by newksncrannies View Post
    I got a pair of channel locks on the driveshaft but was unable to turn it. Should this be fairly easy to spin or do I just need to get some more torque on it.
    You got a pair of channel locks on the driveshaft? Do you mean the drive coupler at the back of the engine or the actual driveshaft itself between the coupler and the thru-hull bearing assembly?

    I would strongly encourage you to NOT put channel locks directly on the drive shaft. If you slip and mar the surface it's possible you'll tear the bearing seals when you back out the shaft. You should ONLY attempt to turn the motor and/or shaft by putting a wrench on the outer surface of the drive coupler.'

    Since this ski was used in salt water I bet one of two things has happened. 1) The water got in the pump bearings and they are rusted and seized. Or 2) Salt corrosion has caused the wear ring to swell and it's bound tight against the impeller.

    1) You should first remove the pump assembly and driveshaft.

    2) Next, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine by hand to see if it's smooth.

    3) If the engine turns smoothly, run through the fuel system to ensure everything is clean, all gunk is removed, and you don't run the risk of clogged carbs and a burned piston.

    4) Attempt to start the engine without the pump or driveshaft connected. If it runs you're good

    5) Rebuild jet pump and get a new wear ring (stainless steel preferred for salt water use), and start riding again.

    KJ

  8. #8
    I transcend race Hombre! TBone14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newksncrannies View Post
    I got a pair of channel locks on the driveshaft but was unable to turn it. Should this be fairly easy to spin or do I just need to get some more torque on it.

    I'll have to look into removing the pump. not really sure how to go about doing that

    tried turning it over with the starter with no plugs in. Voltage went more from 13 to around 5v when i tried. connections to battery cables started smoking, wiring from jumper pack got really hot and it started to melt the tips on my multimeter
    There are 4 bolts (13mm I think) going around the pump nozzle. Remove those bolts and the water hoses and the pump/driveshaft come right out. Check out:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1439122

    Yes, it should be easy to turn. You should be able to do it by hand.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    You got a pair of channel locks on the driveshaft? Do you mean the drive coupler at the back of the engine or the actual driveshaft itself between the coupler and the thru-hull bearing assembly?

    I would strongly encourage you to NOT put channel locks directly on the drive shaft. If you slip and mar the surface it's possible you'll tear the bearing seals when you back out the shaft. You should ONLY attempt to turn the motor and/or shaft by putting a wrench on the outer surface of the drive coupler.'

    Since this ski was used in salt water I bet one of two things has happened. 1) The water got in the pump bearings and they are rusted and seized. Or 2) Salt corrosion has caused the wear ring to swell and it's bound tight against the impeller.

    1) You should first remove the pump assembly and driveshaft.

    2) Next, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine by hand to see if it's smooth.

    3) If the engine turns smoothly, run through the fuel system to ensure everything is clean, all gunk is removed, and you don't run the risk of clogged carbs and a burned piston.

    4) Attempt to start the engine without the pump or driveshaft connected. If it runs you're good

    5) Rebuild jet pump and get a new wear ring (stainless steel preferred for salt water use), and start riding again.

    KJ
    mustve been the drive coupler. it was right behind the engine and was flat of 2 sides.

    It was used mostly in salt water, but the last year it was used it was only in fresh. I really hope its nothing too bad

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by slothman View Post
    I dont think I would use a car battery either, that might have TOO much amperage and fry something. The ignition system is designed for smaller batteries. PWC batteries are about $50 dollars new, and you might as well get one if you plan on keeping the ski.

    If the gas is in fact three years old, I wouldn't crank the motor at all. You might as well drain all of the gas, and rebuild the carbs. I guarantee that old gas has already plugged up the carbs with varnish and gunk.
    a new batterys on the list anyway. We do not plan on keeping it. This one belonged to my grandfather and was used by various members of my family, and im sure a few of them didnt know how to take care of it. I want to get it running and sell it to fund a bass boat. We already have a sea doo for ourselves.

    Quote Originally Posted by TBone14 View Post
    There are 4 bolts (13mm I think) going around the pump nozzle. Remove those bolts and the water hoses and the pump/driveshaft come right out. Check out:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1439122

    Yes, it should be easy to turn. You should be able to do it by hand.
    thanks. i'll give it a try.


    I guess before i get too far into this i should ask, whats this thing worth in its current condition and if it were to be running? It has 126 hours on it.

    Thanks for the help guys

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