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  1. #1

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    What would you recommend to remove snapped stainless steel bolt?

    I need to replace a broken drive shaft on my 2000 Polaris Virage.

    Despite trying to be carefull when removing the four SS 10" long bolts holding the steering nozzle and jet pump assembly, I snapped one of the bolts.

    The bolts are stainless steel, but the housing is aluminum. A friend said to use a propane torch and heat the remaining stub of the ss bolt, not to heat the housing and then back out the remaining piece of bolt with vice grips.

    Has anyone else snapped a bolt and if so, how did you resolve?

    Thank you for any help in this matter.


  2. #2
    slothman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FunFor-2 View Post
    I need to replace a broken drive shaft on my 2000 Polaris Virage.

    Despite trying to be carefull when removing the four SS 10" long bolts holding the steering nozzle and jet pump assembly, I snapped one of the bolts.

    The bolts are stainless steel, but the housing is aluminum. A friend said to use a propane torch and heat the remaining stub of the ss bolt, not to heat the housing and then back out the remaining piece of bolt with vice grips.

    Has anyone else snapped a bolt and if so, how did you resolve?

    Thank you for any help in this matter.
    bolt extractor kit: http://www.ehow.com/about_6296070_br...oval-tool.html

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Is there still some bolt section sticking out of the hole or is it snapped off flush with the surface?

  4. #4

    How to 'easily' remove the jet pump base from the hull, or remove broken pump bolts

    I just went through this whole mess---let me tell you that it wont be easy, and you are probably going to need a new pump base.

    If you want to give extraction a try, I would start with left-hand drill bits. Get a punch in the exact center (getting it in the center is really important), and start using the left hand bits. In many situations this will spin the bolt/stud out, but if it does not work, then go with the extractor.

    You should add heat to the aluminum area, but be careful! I used this procedure for the exact same problem, and I got about half of the bolt out. Unfortunately, it snapped again, and on my second attempt, the extractor broke off in the hole--game over!

    Here's what I ended up doing to fix my ski:
    1. Remove all the nuts/hoses etc. inside the hull that are holding the pump base on.
    2. Reassemble the full pump (without the drive shaft!) using the remaining 3 bolts
    3. Get a long 2 x 4 and carefully pry against the hull on both sides to break the silicone sealant seal, then pull the pump base out. You can avoid removing the ride plate using this method.
    4. Get a salvage pump base (I got mine from Rock County Ski in WI)
    5. Get everything cleaned up, and put it back together using marine silicone sealant (not a bonding agent like 5200!)

    In retrospect I should not even have bothered trying to extract the bolt, as there was so little chance of success due to corrosion, etc. If you don't already have left hand bits and extractors, it will probably cost more to buy them than a pump base.

    Good luck. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
    Last edited by K447; 07-09-2011 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Added title to make it easier to search for later

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Is there still some bolt section sticking out of the hole or is it snapped off flush with the surface?
    Step by step I'm getting mine 100%. Need to remove a broken bolt to finish up though. Bolt still has about 1/2 inch sticking out, so I can grab it with a vise. Bolt doesn't want to budge though. No loctite on the others. Is heat the answer? I hit it with penetrating oil not only before trying to get it out, but also while trying to get it out and after I broke it. It just doesn't seem to want to budge. Any other suggestions?

  6. #6
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    I had a couple that did that.I had enough bolt to grind a nut thin and thread it on so the bolt stuck thru. I heated the bolt cherry red and peened the bolt over the nut. Then carefully heated the housing and worked the bolt out. While using PB Blaster. You might get lucky. Take your time. I'd try this before a extractor. You break it off in there...game over.

  7. #7
    Fink's Avatar
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    Lets just say worse case scenario, can not get it out.

    Remove the AL pump base and take to a machine shop. They can use a carbide end mill to "eat" the bolt flush with the housing, then can drill out the bolt with a carbide drill and run a tap through the threads to clear them out. They may have to drill out the threads slightly over sized and install a helicoil. Should be doable for under $100.

  8. #8
    Fink's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keddano View Post
    I had a couple that did that.I had enough bolt to grind a nut thin and thread it on so the bolt stuck thru. I heated the bolt cherry red and peened the bolt over the nut. Then carefully heated the housing and worked the bolt out. While using PB Blaster. You might get lucky. Take your time. I'd try this before a extractor. You break it off in there...game over.
    Check the flammability of the oil you are using. The old liquid wrench would flame up...

  9. #9
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Better worse case or simialr

  10. #10
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Ahh, Fire...It's always cool. Then again, most people would screw up using tank torches with a brazing tip to heat up alum. not for first time guys. but a propane should also do good if your careful.

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