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  1. #1

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    98 GSX Limited Fuel Selector cleaning found o-rings in back, each port

    While doing most of the DIY - Fuel System Cleaning steps, I found one oring in bottom and debri (from swollen orings) in the other two. Not sure if this is a sign to replace the valve or crap from parts that have come apart in the fuel tank. I think it would be good to not have this stuff so I got out all I saw and blew out the rest. I am sure this would be an obstruction and restrict flow. Has anyone ever seen or heard of this?

    Talked with my Seadoo mechanic (Shawn) about this and said to install a new valve, said orings from valve itself. He had a replacement but was smaller new plastic deal (6mm). Another dealer has correct one at same price $72. With this obstruction, not sure how this doo ever kept running. Will pickup and install tomorrow.
    Last edited by jmtyner; 07-11-2011 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Update


  2. #2

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    Replaced the valve and gas'ed up. Getting dark so I just floated for test. After starting I noticed the engine still bogging, not a crisp acceleration as before. Kinda like, woo, woo, wooooo, woo, woo. (hard to type sounds people make). Like its not catching. I replace the 6, 8 mm fuel lines, cleaned the carbs, replace the fuel valve, drained tank, fresh gas.

    did not replace skinny lines on carb
    did not do carb kit

    what else could this be. should this be new thread?

  3. #3
    20 feet Boy's Avatar
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    The fuel vents might have some crap in them. My bottom one on the side of the ski had a bunch of black stuff in it. Not sure if it was a problem. It might have a crack on the fuel baffle where the fuel lines go in the top, or hoses are looses. Also sometime the o ring will fall off the front fuel filter where it screws on. This happen to me out on the lake one and there it was in the Drive way when I got home. Piss me off. good luck

  4. #4

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    Thanks, I check it out. I failed to mentioned (becaused I didn't think it possibablly a problem) during the carb cleaning, I couldn't get a couple of screws out so a thourgh cleaning did not occur. Also, I discovered during a look see of an exploded view of the carbs that a jet that has a cap that limits its adjustment is removable. I did not do this or clean these two jets (one per carb). I took the ski out for a day and had great hesitation on start off but when I finially got up some speed, top end rpms were 6300+. I admit I don't know the expected rpms but my dream-o-meter had 63 mph. Still, I will remove the carbs and clean all the jets. Not sure if I should just put in a kit since I'll have them out again. Noticed a frayed throttle cable so I do that too.
    Not a very big ski but sure is fun when its running right.
    Do those caps just come off that easy?

  5. #5
    20 feet Boy's Avatar
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    I am not sure what cap you are talking about. The tac should be around 6700-6900 rpm at full run. But if the dream o meter said 63 that about right. Mine alway said 64 when you look back at the peak. For a old ski they get with the program. But remember they are 525 dry weight and most of the new skis are 750 +.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...eration-on-951 This thread might help.

  6. #6

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    kind felt like summer projects stopped everything. I removed the carbs and found I messed up when I reinstalled the carbs. I clamped down on one of the fuel hoses and it was sucking air in the first stages air pressure of acceleration. I previously made an adjustment to the pop off for the diaphram. Don't mess with this unless you know how to adjust pop off or unless you are replacing the arm and needle. Pay attention to the scant distant between the arm and the diaphram. It should be flush with the diaphram button (center where arm is accutated by diaphram when air pressure is optimum, hense pop off adjustment). I corrected this mistake and payed attention to the reassembly. Put the ski in the water and it runs like a top now.

  7. #7
    20 feet Boy's Avatar
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    Good to hear

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