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  1. #1

    02 gp1200r issue

    Just picked up a gp1200r the other day. took it to the lake for the first time this past weekend. The ski would get up to 10 mph and 5k rpm's. If I gave it any more throttle the rpm's would go up, but the ski wouldn't move. The motor sounded fine. I was told it could be the impeller or something stuck in the intake screen, I started taking everything apart...impeller looked good, impeller housing looked good, nothing seemed out of the norm. I crawled under the thing and I noticed the black felt packing seal was hanging out the bottom That goes between the intake duct and the hull (I believe). Could this little felt seal be causing this issue?

    Also, when I had the ski out that day.... after messing with it for a while, I found out that when I have it revved up and I moved the handlebars back and forth a few times it would hook up and take off like nothing was wrong.

    I already ordered that felt seal, but just wondering if anyone else has had something like this happen before so I know what I can be expecting if that seal isn't the problem. Thanks guys

  2. #2
    mudslanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Huntsville Al
    wile you have the pump shoe off go ahead and put a pump seal kit in it. all that should stop the cavitating unless the prop and wear ring are bad.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Texas City, Texas
    You have classic cavitation problems that is very common in the GPR. Yes, the seal is the problem, but not the solution , so don't waste your time putting a new one back in. Keep in mind that when this is all over, you will more than likely have to replace the impeller, wear ring, and have to reseal the pump shoe. The sealing of the shoe is an absolute must, but because it was not done a long time ago, it may have cause other problems. Cavitation is hard on wear rings, impellers, and pump stator veins. You will have to do some measureing to find if the impeller and wear ring are in spec.

    Here's a thread that takes sealing of the rear of your hull to the max degree as far as doing it right.

    For you, pay close attention to when he starts to talk about the pump shoe. The 5200 that is used is more or less a permanent seal, and you will pay he!! getting it off once installed. Of the two, I would recommend the 4200. It is a fast cure, not as strong, yet strong enough to get the job done. Walmart sells an ATWOOD brand sealer/adhesive which seams to be somewhere in the middle of the 3M 4200 and 5200 as far as toughness, and is only about 8 bucks.

    Reseal the shoe, and put everything back on and see if that completely solves your problem. It may take a full 24-48 hrs. for the sealant to cure. I have a feeling that most of your cavitation will go away, and you boat will run much better. If it is still not acceptable, you may want to rethink the impeller and wear ring. There are a lot of good used impellers (actually better than new and cheaper) out there, and if you decide to get a new wear ring, look at RIVA's and Skat-trak's. They are much better units than the OEM's.

    good luck Bud.


  4. #4
    Thanks for the reply guys. Sounds like I'll be going to wally world for some of that sealant today. Not sure when I'll have time to take it out after I seal it all up, might not be until next weekend but I'll post up the results when I do. Thanks again

  5. #5
    Well, I got that gasket in early this week. Yesterday I put the gasket in, but did not try and reseal the shoe because it looks like someone has before. Hit the lake and the cavitation is gone! I pick up another issue though. One of the cylinders is not firing, or may be firing every once in a while. The first time I did not have this issue. Motor seemed fine. I did notice as soon as I got on the lake yesterday that my throttle cable was very sticky. When I first hit the throttle it stuck wide open, then throughout the ride it got better but was still not working properly.

    Any ideas on the motor issue? And is there a way to keep the throttle cable lubed up to prevent this? Thanks again!

  6. #6
    mudslanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Huntsville Al
    I would like to call this the GPR curse when you get one thing fixed theres another issue that needs addressed. Just make sure you get the cylinder issue fixed before you try to ride anymore. check compression on it and the firing at the plug.

  7. #7
    I had a similar problem and all i did was siliconed between the intake grate and hull

  8. #8
    bringing back this thread from a little while ago...

    I did silicone the intake grate. i noticed the cylinder wasn't firing because the outside of the block was actually cold after it was running for a little bit and the other two cylinders were warm. I'm thinking I have it narrowed down to either no spark, or a fuel delivery issue to that cylinder...possibly the carb. I haven't touched the thing in a few months because it stays on my buddy's trailer at his place and Ive had other stuff going on. I plan on cleaning up the carbs and checking for spark at some point this winter so it'll be ready for next season.

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