Thread: Impeller Shaft O-ring placement
07-14-2011, 01:28 PM #1
Impeller Shaft O-ring placement
After searching the forum, I have not been able to track down any information on the exact location of the two o-rings that go on the impeller shaft. I've posted the parts diagram as shown on Babbits, part 14 and 15 are the o-rings I'm curious about. I definitely see a groove for one of the orings, but the second o-ring I'm not so sure about... does the 2nd one belong in the smaller notch I have indicated in the attached impeller shaft picture?
thanks for your help!
07-14-2011, 01:40 PM #2
Here you go!!! Part #15 seals the stub shaft to the impeller spacer and part #14 seals the impeller threads and stub shaft threads from water.
07-14-2011, 02:30 PM #3
Thanks very much for the help.
A tip for any other newbies on the board, don't use grease on your impeller shaft threads! My impeller fell off even though it was originally torqued correctly, luckily no damage. Loctite 242 has been recommended.
07-14-2011, 02:41 PM #4
I have NEVER used loctite on my impeller threads and I wouldn't recommend it. I always grease mine, including all joints between pump sections and all bolts. It sure would be hell to get anything off if it was loctited on. I wonder how the hell yours came off? The impeller rotates in the same direction as tightening it...
07-14-2011, 08:49 PM #5
I've heard two different schools of thought on the loctite. Apparently the early Polaris manuals suggested using marine grease, but Polaris then changed the instruction to blue loctite? I'm very puzzled on how that impeller came off, there was some water in the stator after the impeller had unthreaded from shaft, but that was because the shaft had pushed into the tail cone end. Other than being wet, the bearings were in fine shape (I replaced them though, just in case)
Anybody else had experience greasing or loctite-ing the impeller on, the mechanic I spoke to said he does, but others have said it isn't necessary. I'm still scratching my head knowing that my impeller came off and only had a few small burs on the edges... I'm even within spec for the wear ring clearance.
07-14-2011, 09:31 PM #6
My 2000 service manual calls out for grease on the impeller and torqued to 100 lb-ft.
07-15-2011, 10:04 AM #7
I finally found the reference I remeber reading some time ago (see red bold below):
It was from a nice post from K447,
I recently wrote this up for someone else and though it might be helpful to post it here as a supplement to dorf's excellent original post.
Note: Additional information can be found at Jet Pump Maintenance and Service
You will need the Polaris impeller removal tool. Overtons is selling them for $10, and other places are generally $15-$20.
You do not need a press to change the jet pump bearings.
You will need two new bearings, two new oil seals. You may also need new o-rings and a new flat tailcone seal.
Start by removing the tail cone. Hold the flats of the stub shaft rear end in a vice or large wrench, and unscrew the impeller. It will be very tight.
With the impeller removed, slide out the stub shaft. Pry the old seals out from the front of the stator.
Carefully remove the large o-ring from the stator groove behind the rear bearing. Inspect the o-ring for damage or distortion. If it is not in good condition, replace with a new o-ring.
Slide the internal spacer aside as needed, and use a steel punch tool to reach through and drive the bearing out from the far side of the stator. Tap the outer bearing race a little on one side, then the other, and work it out.
Once you have tapped out both bearings, make sure the stator bores are smooth and free of burrs. Clean off any old grease, and inspect stator for damage.
Use the freezer and oven method to install the new bearings. Put the bearings in the freezer for about an hour. Heat the stator in a 200F oven at the same time.
Use gloves to handle the hot stator. Put the stator on a stable and heat resistant surface. The cold bearing will now drop right into the stator.
Put one bearing in, tap it gently around the outer edge to be sure it is seated. Never apply pressure or tap on the inner race of the bearing, just the outer section. Let it warm up enough to expand and become snug in place.
Then flip the stator over, put the spacer back in, and drop the other bearing in. Tap around the edges to seat bearing.
Allow the stator to cool to room temperature. Make sure the inner spacer is just able to slide around, but it should not rattle end to end, nor be binding between the two bearings.
Tap the new front oil seals into place. Both seal lips and garter springs should be facing outwards. Press the seals in so the front seal is 1/8" beyond the bore chamfer.
Install the large o-ring into the groove in the stator rear bore. Lightly grease it.
Put some marine waterproof grease behind the inner seal, and between the two seals. Grease and gently work the short impeller spacer through the two seals so it seats on the front bearing.
When you install the stub shaft, make sure the two o-rings on the stub shaft are in good condition. Lightly grease the o-rings, then side the stub shaft through. Be sure the front bearing does not get pushed out of position, and the short spacer is still nicely seated in the seal lips.
Now you can put the flats of the stub shaft into your vice or large wrench, and torque the impeller to 100ft-lbs.
Note: In the early years, Polaris recommended greasing the threads on the stub shaft. In later years, the recommendation is Blue 242 Loctite, which is what I use.
Check that the impeller now spins smoothly without any binding or tight spots, and there is no grinding.
If you have a recent year jet pump (2001-2004), then it will have Polaris Tail cone flat gasket/seal 5811984 that sits between the tail cone and the stator flat rear surface.
This extra flat gasket can be retro-fitted to any year 148mm jet pump. It provides an additional seal against water getting into the rear pump bearing. If you are ordering parts from Polaris, add this to your list.
Inspect the tail cone for hairline cracks. Make sure the round surface where it will seal to the o-ring is in perfect condition, with no damage, nicks or burs.
Lightly grease the tail cone and slide it into place. Snug up the three screws, but do not over torque. Use blue Loctite to keep the screws from working loose.
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