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  1. #1

    2001 Yamaha GP1200r - NEWBIE - HELP!

    Hi guys,

    My brother in law owned this ski for about 7-8 years and he didnt do any mods to it. Actually he isn't much of a maintenance guy so he uses the ski as if it was a car, so yes, you can imagine the poor state of the ski.

    Ski got riva racing seat (bought like that) and was sprayed riva racing blue (again bought like that). 3 years ago I was on the pontoon washing my boat when my brother in law showed up on his ski with the footwells submerged in water. I immediately realized that the ski was getting submerged with water so told him to take it on the slipway and put it on the trailer. He went to slipway using his own power and left it with the water for a year on the trailer, and guess what , yes he was in need of a rebuild then :S

    So last year he performed a rebuilt and the guy he took it to brought it back with some issues. Fuel gauge not working, QSTS not working, YPVS not working, ski doesnt start easily and bogs down, and was converted to premix. I dont trust this guy much so I dont know how he eliminated the oil pump. All i know is that he cut the wires before the plug that goes to the display and jointed them together to eliminate the warning sound.

    Sorry for the long read guys but that is the history of the ski. Now, this ski is always sitting in the garage so I decided to fix it up and take it out since my Novamarine jet rib blew up a piston. Anyways started to sort some things out. Managed to fix the fuel guage by replacing some blown resistors, YPVS was checked according to manual and servo motor is not cleaning itself when bypassing gray and black wires. So Im after YPVS servo motor. QSTS cables are BADLY CORRODED, I mean like rust all the way and black cable casing cracked and rust coming out. Right, fuel wasnt getting to the engine so i pumped some air in the fuel line going to the carbs so that if there was some debris it would clean itself. Sure enough with a primer bulb it managed to start up and I took it to the water. Ski was strong and seemed to have great acceleration (even though YPVS werent working) but topped up at 38mph according to ski's guage. I stopped at a beach and when tried to start it couldnt get it to reach more than 3mph and sounded like the engine was choked. To manage to drive 2-3mph took me well over 45 to 60mins and the ski quit on me like 35 times. Decided to fix it and am sure its a problem with the carbs. So took the carbs off and found out that the arm on the throttle linkage that opens up the fuel accelerator pump was opening the accelerator pump but the accelerator pump was getting stuck on the WOT position so yes it was choked.

    Pics of dismantling attached.

    Now for the questions;

    I found it has a D-Cat , maybe its because its European? I am not 100% sure it has a D-cat reason being is that its quite weird to have a D-Cat. And if it does, the chip is missing, the plug from the harness is empty. Im 99.9999% its a D-cat but please confirm from the pics.

    The carbs have a lot of salt crystals on it (pics attached) and the black paint is flaking off, so before going for the rebuild of carbs I must first identify the issue of the 2cm of water in the bilge. Any ideas of from the gp1200r can take in water? What are the possible places that water can come in?

    Planning to rebuild carbs, change QSTS cable, replace YPVS servo motor and tackle this water ingress thing.

    Should I install D-Cat chip??? I heard that some ski's are missing this chip and working fine.

    Probably the warning light was flashing because of the low fuel engine gauge warning horn etc but could be because of the missing chip. so no help in that, sorry guys.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Another question regarding carburetors - can I use paint stripper to remove the black flaky paint? and how can I remove the corrosion and stop it from corroding again? How can I get them in brand new condition again?

    Carburetor Pics;

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  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Orange County, Ca
    I feel so bad for the ski, been abuse and negelected... I would cover all the fitting and the carb where the throttle plate is and sandblast it, sand blast will remove everything on the carb, paint, corrosion etc... and get some marine spary can paint, but before u sandblast I would open the carb and inspect it, then sand blast it, clean it inside, out, and replace whatever the carb need since u have the carb out...

  4. #4
    Thanks for your reply. I feel bad for this ski as well, thats why I have finally decided to give it the attention it needs. Struck a deal with brother in law, I take care of it and maintain it and in return I can use it whenever I like except when he is using it (which is like 4 times a year ). I am planning to make this a great stock ski once again. BTW am thinking it would be cheaper/better to buy a set of used carbs instead of rebuilding these. Any thoughts about this guys? Im thinking that should I buy a used set of carbs, they shouldnt necessarily need a rebuild even though they have been standing clean for a while, or am I wrong?

  5. #5
    Try not to smile on a Jetski... GPRFrank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009


    The carbs may be to far gone. The corrosion looks bad Picking up a used set is a great idea especially if you can fine a fresh water set. But in my h/o rebuild them no mater what since they are out already and they can very easy make this motor pop!. That is a D-Plate. They def could be a reason for alrm sounding. Run down to Radio shack and pick up a 2 ohm resistor and soldier that in place of plug. Cost about 2 bucks for 5. The power valves should be taken out and cleaned as well. I hoghly recomend picking up some wave eater clips and installing them as well to avoid future chance of droping a power valve and snagging a piston. i easy trick I use for finding water leaks is fill the hull up with water from the hose up to top of transom plate with plugs in and watch the back of ski and see where its dripping from. Good luck. Nice to see a gpr getting restored....

  6. #6
    Thanks for all the advice guys. Yes was planning to install waveater clips and couplers. Thanks for the heads up regarding the restistor. Should I open the powervalves, do i need to change the gasket of the pvs? or can it be reused? or is there no gasket?

    What exactly to you mean by top of transom?? Also since I have stringer out, Can i still fill with water? Can the stringer take in water or should I need to cover the hole going to water box? Im assuming it can be filled with water since on the top coupler of ther stringer, there is a water pipe which was used for cooling. Heard about a bypass system. SHould I do a bypass?

    Thanks all

  7. #7

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Orange County, Ca
    I did a water bypass, it also relieve the water pressure in the exhaust rubber coupler. You will gain a few rpm due to running the stinger hotter... you can tee off the hose from cylinder 1 and 2 or just dump cylinder 3... I just tee off 1 and 2 ... been working well for me.

  9. #9
    What exactly do you mean by tee off? Join the water hoses of cyl 1 and 2 ?? Is it safe to fill the hull up to the top of transom with water with the stringer off??

  10. #10
    Another thing, can you go premix without using the block off plate? I believe that the mechanic who did the rebuild just removed the oil cable, but left the oil pump and everything in place.

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