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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    headpipe bolts wont stay tight!??

    well I've tried everything now and nothing works. For some reason the head pipe to manifold bolts come loose 5 minutes into riding. i honestly haven't been able to ride longer than that since purchasing the ski. I've had to replace 1 head pipe and now going on my 4th gasket. It has new lock washers, tried torque to spec, slight over torque, blue lock tite, and red high temp RTV. every time the back out. Eventually its going to lean out and blow the engine unless there's already damage done which i would not doubt. All the engine mount bolts are tight and those 4 are the only ones that come loose. PLEASE HELP!


  2. #2
    canuck's Avatar
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    What ski and engine ? 96XP like your sig ?

  3. #3
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    why did you buy a new head pipe? you should have bought a new exhaust manifold.

  4. #4
    canuck's Avatar
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    The trick is to install the pipe to manifold connection with no stress on it if you're finding the flange does not line up flat and the head pipe bolts are used to force it to line up the they will always work loose.



    First off make sure the exhaust manifold to cylinder bolts are all tight. Next clean all of the bolt threads and run a tap through all of the female threads this includes the mount at the front of the motor and the two mounts under the cylinders on the cases. Check the condition of the rubber mounts in all three locations. If these look squashed or flattened replace them.

    Dry fit everything before final assembly. Start by loosening the two allen head bolts that hold the front mount to the cases then dry fit everything finger tight to see how all of the mounts line up. If anything has to be forced into position it needs to be adjusted to line up. If everything looks good then use blue locktite on all the fasteners and gasket sealer as required. Install the manifold to head pipe bolts loosely and install all three pipe mounting bolts loosely. Torque the manifold to head pipe bolts first then torque all three mounting bolts. Lastly torque the two allen head bolts that hold the front mount to the cases. These should be left loose at pipe install so the mount can move as required and not put stress on the pipe to manifold bolts.

    Remember if you have to force anything into place it will always work loose.

    Good Luck

  5. #5

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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    why did you buy a new head pipe? you should have bought a new exhaust manifold.
    Because the head pipes square flange was broken in multiple places.
    Canuck- Thanks for the info. i found the cone pipe mount rubber was toasted and the front headpipe rubber was also thin and scetchy. I just ordered the new gasket and silicone sealant so ill be trying it again hopefully by the end of the week. Following the sequence your describing at what point would you say to tighten the headpipe to cone pipe clamp?
    Thanks

  6. #6

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    Jun 2011
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    well. $110 later, new bushings, sleeves, lock washers, head pipe gasket, cone pipe copper ring all installed with red high temp loctite on all the bolts. Ski is very quick and enjoyable.... until the damn bolts come loose yet again. anyone want a 96 XP?

  7. #7
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    good prep, copper sealer for the gasket and a generous application of high strength high temp thread lock. Reducing engine vibration helps lots..did I mention good prep? Clean the bolts/threads with lacquer thinner and imagine you are working on the space shuttle. You must wait for the threadlock to set before startling the engine

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