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  1. #1
    Lock and Load tron's Avatar
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    Blown head gasket / Need ARP studs?

    Blew a head gasket last night after 8 hours on my fresh rebuild. It happened after two WOT(5 seconds or so) pulls. It should also be noted these were the first WOT pulls since the rebuild. I was running a new stock HG and new stock head bolts (torqued per manual). Now after reading the various torque and stretch issues even with brand spanking new head bolts I'm leaning towards the ARP Studs. Just a little more background: Block to head mating surfaces were faced ('08 RXP Block) prior to HG install, I'm running a block guard, also still have a closed loop system. Everything else listed in sig.

    Should I be looking @ anything else?

    Does anybody have the ARP model #'s as I'm guessing I could get them a quite a bit cheaper through my speed shop than having to paying Riva to put them in a different box.


  2. #2

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    pm sent

  3. #3
    Eastside Powersports Slow 91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tron View Post
    Blew a head gasket last night after 8 hours on my fresh rebuild. It happened after two WOT(5 seconds or so) pulls. It should also be noted these were the first WOT pulls since the rebuild. I was running a new stock HG and new stock head bolts (torqued per manual). Now after reading the various torque and stretch issues even with brand spanking new head bolts I'm leaning towards the ARP Studs. Just a little more background: Block to head mating surfaces were faced ('08 RXP Block) prior to HG install, I'm running a block guard, also still have a closed loop system. Everything else listed in sig.

    Should I be looking @ anything else?

    Does anybody have the ARP model #'s as I'm guessing I could get them a quite a bit cheaper through my speed shop than having to paying Riva to put them in a different box.
    How were the gasket surfaces machined? I have seen several people bring their stuff to a machine shop to have the heads/blocks decked and the shop puts them on a belt sander. Thats a big no no epecially with a mls headgasket.

    As for the ARP's their is no part number from ARP. The size you need is only offered in ARP2000 material and its expensive.

  4. #4
    Lock and Load tron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow 91 View Post
    How were the gasket surfaces machined? I have seen several people bring their stuff to a machine shop to have the heads/blocks decked and the shop puts them on a belt sander. Thats a big no no epecially with a mls headgasket.
    I'm not sure if this is the exact model but it was done on a DCM surfacer like this one :
    http://www.dcm-tech.com/dcm_products/head_and_block.php
    Last edited by tron; 07-19-2011 at 09:34 AM. Reason: bad link

  5. #5
    boostedpgt's Avatar
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    i always use stock head gaskets and bolts on every motor i have ever messed with. now these have all been cars/trucks, but translates to any 4 stroke motor. the reason being is think of your head gasket as a fuse, if something goes wrong, the fuse will blow, just replace it and its good to go. now if you started using stronger gaskets and/or ARP studs its like taking that fuse out and just putting a wire in. if something fails, there is no weak point to give. so now instead of you just having a blown head gasket, you now have snapped rods and a hole in your block.

  6. #6
    Lock and Load tron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boostedpgt View Post
    i always use stock head gaskets and bolts on every motor i have ever messed with. now these have all been cars/trucks, but translates to any 4 stroke motor. the reason being is think of your head gasket as a fuse, if something goes wrong, the fuse will blow, just replace it and its good to go. now if you started using stronger gaskets and/or ARP studs its like taking that fuse out and just putting a wire in. if something fails, there is no weak point to give. so now instead of you just having a blown head gasket, you now have snapped rods and a hole in your block.
    I see what you're saying with the headgasket = fuse statement but that's assuming there is a tuning issue.....I'm quite certain that's not what's going on here. I'm only running a stock X-charger with minor mods, Stock ECU etc..... My spark plugs have always loooked great when pulled and I've had a my fair share of spark plug readings through the years (nitrous drag cars) to be able to hint on what's goin on inside.

  7. #7
    formerly Gold06RXP Turbo Nick's Avatar
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    When your pushing the limit sometimes you have to use a bigger fuse or else its gonna blow every time no mater what
    Quote Originally Posted by boostedpgt View Post
    i always use stock head gaskets and bolts on every motor i have ever messed with. now these have all been cars/trucks, but translates to any 4 stroke motor. the reason being is think of your head gasket as a fuse, if something goes wrong, the fuse will blow, just replace it and its good to go. now if you started using stronger gaskets and/or ARP studs its like taking that fuse out and just putting a wire in. if something fails, there is no weak point to give. so now instead of you just having a blown head gasket, you now have snapped rods and a hole in your block.

  8. #8
    Eastside Powersports Slow 91's Avatar
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    if it was infact only 5 second WOT pulls i doubt it got hot enough or had a detonation problem that caused the gasket to blow. im going to say the block or head isnt square.

  9. #9
    suck my wake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slow 91 View Post
    if it was infact only 5 second WOT pulls i doubt it got hot enough or had a detonation problem that caused the gasket to blow. im going to say the block or head isnt square.
    +1, thats the first place I would be lookin. Your parts are either not perfectly true or you didn't torque the bolts right, sometimes people think they understand the procedure when they really don't, no offense I am not saying that is the case here just sayin it is possible. I have seen that already so its not an uncommon thing. First thing make sure your head and block are true then go over how you torqued them and make 100% sure you did it like the manual says. Goodluck!!

  10. #10
    Lock and Load tron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by suck my wake View Post
    +1, thats the first place I would be lookin. Your parts are either not perfectly true or you didn't torque the bolts right, sometimes people think they understand the procedure when they really don't, no offense I am not saying that is the case here just sayin it is possible. I have seen that already so its not an uncommon thing. First thing make sure your head and block are true then go over how you torqued them and make 100% sure you did it like the manual says. Goodluck!!
    I hear ya, I did the first torque round @ 30ft/ lbs, then a round adding 120 degrees, then a round adding 90 degrees. Since there isn't a final torque # I couldn't tell ya if they were all happy since I was just going by the gauge. I did notice when I was tearing it down last night a couple didn't seem nearly as tight as the others when breaking them free....maybe it was just in my head. Either way I'll be verifying the deck and head surfaces again.

    The only reason I knew something was wrong is because the temp alarm came on....I instantly shut her down and popped the seat to find the coolant jug empty....(I verified the oil and water level before I set out yesterday). I just drifted down river to the next boat ramp and loaded it from there after having a buddy grab my truck and trailer. Upon further inspection on the trailer I see oil / coolant seepage between the block and head. I pull the spark plugs and they have coolant on them. That's when the tear down began. The head gasket didn't have your typical blowout or track marks but the you could see exactly where it was seeping in and out when looking on the block and head surfaces.

    suck my wake you have a PM from me

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