Thread: 300 X Impeller Problems
07-20-2011, 08:37 PM #1
300 X Impeller Problems
Did any one else have any problems with with there impellar or pump on the 300x ? After my 5 hour break in i started running the boat the way it was meant to run! or so i thought! Picked up a bad vibration and limped back to the launch! to find out impellar came loose slid part way up drive shaft and back and destroyed about every thing in the pump area! Dealer replaced everything! First ride after everthing was was replaced i jumped on it at the no wake bouy. Cavatated right out the hole! Mid range and top end seemed ok! After talking to dealer Kawi. Pro freestyle guy riding it they agreed it was cavatating. They pulled the pump today and the impellar was working its way back off again! (threads on the impellar and shaft were destroyed both times) only this time it cross threaded on its way off it did not slide up the drive shaft!
07-20-2011, 08:42 PM #2
I have CLEARLY. Posted on here my suggested pre- ride ski checks ,
There HAS been props loose on some 300x skiies.
Some people said I was wasting my time rechecking every nut and bolt on my new ski.
Some will say they shouldn't need to , and I agree.
But history on EVERY brand of ski is MOST dealers couldn't pre-deliver a can if coke !!!! ( not all )
It's all in my 1st ride post.
Last edited by sirbreaksalot; 08-12-2011 at 09:47 PM.
07-20-2011, 09:27 PM #3
NOT ON THE PUMP! are you kidding me! Never on my 10 PLUS new skis have i ever had a issue like THIS! ALSO for it to happen again! I have taken a lot of pumps off and changed a lot of impellars and have not seen anything like this!
07-20-2011, 11:28 PM #4
This information was out in the real world even before I posted it on GH and 250xtech,even as far as AUSTRALIA
if it has happened again then it only confirms that the whoever/dealer ( I assume ) DID NOT take the neccessary step to ensure the prop CANT come undone........( loctite on the shaft ) and correct tension ( not just close enough is good enough )
I would be checking endfloat on your crankshaft before I ride the ski even 1 minute more..........you MUST CHECK CRANK FLOAT .......
as normally when the prop undoes it push's the crank forward......
any excess movement means rebuild engine time.............and sadly its not riders fault , but who ever didnt check it was tight at PD stage
07-21-2011, 06:37 AM #5
I've had the pump off my 150's, 250, but not the 300, I did a search but didn't see anything in regards to a procedure for the 300, anything special about pump removal and impeller tourquing ? Does the 300 use the same spline tool at the 250 ?, What is the tourque spec. and which loc-tite, Red or blue ? Thanks Chris
P.S. I have been trying to get a good feel for how well this ski will carve and hold in the turns and I noticed on Sunday that while doing low speed (25-35 mph) HARD tight turns that the ski felt like there was a vibration. As soon as I straightened out the vibration went away, another hard turn to either side and it would kind of vibrate, hard to explain.
07-21-2011, 09:25 AM #6
Then you have to clean really well the threads of both impeller and shaft free of grease/debris BEFORE applying the loctite. Use medium-strength NON-permanent blue loctite #242 as shown below.
Then tighten the impeller to 108 ft-lbs spec which is same as that of 260X impeller (but more than 250X which has 72 ft-lbs spec). It is important to let the loctite cure for minimum 24 hrs. After that the break-loose torque would become to about 180 ft-lbs, very tight but not impossible to remove next time.
You should do this loctiting every time you remove the impeller for whatever reason.
07-21-2011, 09:35 AM #7
Awesome, Thanks Meangreen.... I dont remember is the prop left handed thread or standard lefty loosey ? Also, what does the nut get re-torqued to ?
07-21-2011, 09:56 AM #8
No left-hand threaded fasteners on jetskis, so the impeller has the standard "lefty-loosey" threads.
Torque spec for the rear nut is 72 ft-lbs.
07-21-2011, 10:38 AM #9
07-21-2011, 06:24 PM #10
Done, Thanks again meangreen, hardest part was getting the hose clamps off because they were rotated so that it was near impossible to get the 6mm on it.
The pump cone was a pita also. Prop wasn't ever going to come loose, but was worth it for peace of mind.
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