Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, wisconsin
    Posts
    76

    where to start on carb adjustment

    Well i have a 2000" gp1200r and im looking to re tune the carbs and dont know where to start. i just put on a ADA racing head, pump gas domes, and Riva stinger exhaust. and im putting on the jetworks mod, once i figure out how. it also has an R&D cdi , protec intake grate rideplate and nozzle, solas 13/19 prop, protec flame arestors,.......are there good setting for the carbs ? i have no porting done, but plan on geting different reeds maybe just carbontech with reed stuffers.....

    Thanks for any help possible


  2. #2
    '02GPRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    425
    Are the carbs already modded with the chokes and acc. pumps removed? You'll want t-handle adjusters, too. The jetting will depend on your elevation and temp. Where are you?

  3. #3
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by brandn View Post
    Well i have a 2000" gp1200r and im looking to re tune the carbs and dont know where to start. i just put on a ADA racing head, pump gas domes, and Riva stinger exhaust. and im putting on the jetworks mod, once i figure out how. it also has an R&D cdi , protec intake grate rideplate and nozzle, solas 13/19 prop, protec flame arestors,.......are there good setting for the carbs ? i have no porting done, but plan on geting different reeds maybe just carbontech with reed stuffers.....

    Thanks for any help possible

    Welcome to the Forum


    Have the carbs ever been off the ski before ?
    Reason I ask, the OEM carbs have tamper caps that have to be removed in order for them to be adjusted.

  4. #4
    '02GPRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    425
    I see from your profile, that you're in Eagle, WI. Are you riding on Lake Michigan? It seems like you're setting this ski up for rough water or CC racing.

    You should get in touch with Carl at Island Racing. He can do the carb work for you or get you started. He's on this forum and has a website at islandracing.net.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, wisconsin
    Posts
    76

    carbs

    well this ski is just for fun no racing intended i havent been on michigan just local lakes, i just want to be fast. dosent everybody and want to spank the seadoos. the carbs are 100% stock never been taken off. so im guessing i have alot of work ahead of me, is it worth woking the stock carbs or buy aftermarket. like i said its ust an everyday ski that i got a little carried away on.


    Thanks, Brandon

  6. #6
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    16,066
    +1
    23
    With Flame arrestors, those carbs need to be rejetting to accomodate for the extra incoming airflow.

    Like 02rider mentioned, Carl at Island racing can hook you up on getting those carbs rejetted with T-handles.

    Also make sure you have an aftermarket tachometer to monitor your motors condition. also invest in a compression guage to get a baseline of your motors condition as you begin to mod/tune it.

    The stock carbs are more than plenty. There are several members on this forum that currently use stock carbs and they are seeing speeds in excess of 85+ mph. So yes, the stock carbs are more than adequate

    Making it fast is always great, but doing it properly so you maintain reliability is important.

    Feel free to use the Search feature on this forum and the brose the How-To section for lots of detailed information reguarding the GPR platform.

    I would also suggest downloading a service manual for your boat.

    See my signature at the bottom and download one for your boat.

    .
    .
    .

  7. #7
    '02GPRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    425
    Quote Originally Posted by brandn View Post
    well this ski is just for fun no racing intended i havent been on michigan just local lakes, i just want to be fast. dosent everybody and want to spank the seadoos. the carbs are 100% stock never been taken off. so im guessing i have alot of work ahead of me, is it worth woking the stock carbs or buy aftermarket. like i said its ust an everyday ski that i got a little carried away on.


    Thanks, Brandon

    If you're looking to make a fast, smooth-water ski, some of your parts will hinder you. The Pro-tec stuff, the Riva stinger, and definitely the 13/19 prop are slower on top. Those parts are more useful for acceleration and hook-up. Switch back to the stock pipe, get a modded R&D plate and R&D grate, and look for a 14/20-based Solas Concord prop or a Nu-jet 6.5.

  8. #8
    All hail the Chief! fullboogie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    3,156
    +1
    44
    Pulling the carbs, removing the tamper caps, and rejetting is not hard at all if you have even rudimentary mechanical skills. Do it yourself, and enjoy the satisfaction!

  9. #9
    spud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Oceanside, California
    Posts
    1,347
    +1
    2
    Without the ignition your jetting would be:

    Disable the accellerator pump (remove linkage)

    110 pilot jets

    1.5 needles and seats

    dull silver springs (95 gram)

    120 mains

    Low screws 1 turn out

    High screws 1.5 turns out 1&2, 1.75 turns out #3

    Since you are running the ignition I would be tempted to go 125's on the highs. Fercho, Island Racing or Kerry may be able to help you out.

    The V-Force Reeds also make a big difference and are well worth the money. Fercho or Island Racing are good sources for the VF-3's, Kerry sells VF-2's

    A Nu-Jet 6.5 pitched to 13/19 setback is a great impeller for your setup, a depitched 14/20 concord is also a good choice. Island Racing specializes in this

    the stock exhaust stinger section with a D-plate is better than a stinger for top speeds.

    use stock sponsons and step them

    Get an angled R&D skegged plate, Jim's Performance, Island Racing and Kerry supply these. You will probably need to tune the plate to your ski. This is done by adding washers between the hull and plate

    For the intake grate the R&D 2 bar 1200 is better for rough water and holeshot. The R&D 2 bar 800 grate is better for top speed.

    Rule of thumb get the 1200 for drag racing from the hole

    get the 800 for top speed numbers and bragging rights

    The Pro-Tec handling components are set up more for rough water and are slower for top speed.

    What conditions do you normally ride in?

    What is your ultimate goal? 70, 75, 80
    There are different builders that have specific packages, or mixtures of parts they use to achieve this. Kerry, Fercho, Ben Herman or Island Racing

    Are you interested in doing your own mods?

    Keep your thread going. The right folks will show up with help.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-24-2014, 03:55 PM
  2. Advice on where to start troubleshooting????
    By jarich42 in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-27-2011, 12:07 PM
  3. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-22-2008, 02:02 PM
  4. Where to start with carb tuning SL 750
    By Juscruzn in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-01-2007, 02:41 PM
  5. 98 gp1200 clogged fuel line, where to start?
    By spyder3000gtvr4 in forum Yamaha How To & FAQs
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 09-11-2006, 10:27 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •