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  1. #1

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    2011 RXT-X 260 upgrades installed....have questions.

    I have installed the SCOM, R&D intake grate, Solas prop, repitched by Speedfreeks and have done some test runs and have a few questions.

    1) Top speed reached in several water conditions is 72mph
    2) Max rpm's I can get is 7850


    Will the Fizzle 4" give me the extra rpms to gain some mph?
    Any thoughts on the catch can?
    Could the repitch be off?
    Should my rpms be around the 8050 mark with the mods done?

    Any help from you guys would be great!


  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Urwheelman View Post
    I have installed the SCOM, R&D intake grate, Solas prop, repitched by Speedfreeks and have done some test runs and have a few questions.

    1) Top speed reached in several water conditions is 72mph
    2) Max rpm's I can get is 7850


    Will the Fizzle 4" give me the extra rpms to gain some mph?
    Any thoughts on the catch can?
    Could the repitch be off?
    Should my rpms be around the 8050 mark with the mods done?

    Any help from you guys would be great!
    Need some additional info like what was the original Solas pitch, 15/20, 15/22?

    What did speed freaks pitch the prop to?

    RPM's should be over 8'000-8040...

    Yes any 4" air intake should add RPM's and speed..

    You probably have about 2+ MPH left on the table due to low RPM's...

    My 2 cents..... Good luck...

  3. #3
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    This ski needs to breathe fresh air and the 4" fizzle setup will help tremendously! The catch can just keeps your SC and IC clean from oily mist. It's not going to gain any real performance. I personally like the catch can setup. After you install the 4" air, re-direct the stock air tubes in the front to be very near the air filter! Without a ecu re-flash 8000-8040 rpm is perfect for the X260 and you should be 73.5 to 74.5 mph, assuming SF re-pitch to 12.5/21.

    The other biggest factor in rpms, is the weather: high temps, high humidity, high density altitude, low barometric pressure will cause a 150-200 rpm drop easy on any given day. The BEST performance is always high pressure 30.00+, low air temps, low humidity, low density altitude. When you are comparing performance from one day to the next you have to take this into consideration!


  4. #4
    stuckmoto's Avatar
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    You should of told Erik(I assume you did/he asked) that your on a stock ECU(8040) and he would of pitched it for the RPM.
    If not - send it back(S&H only) and like JPT said go 12.5/21 w/set back mod AND get the 4" on there. Your choking that thing...
    I put the heat shield(RIVA copy cat) in and swear by it....

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the info, I had the Solas 15/22 repitched to 12.5/21, and the temps have been warm here but comparable to the conditions you guys have. How difficult is it to install the 4"? Do I need to have the stealer do it? Erik didn't ask me what about the ECU but I did tell him what mods I was doing. It said right on it 12.5/22 so no worries there. I am topping out at 72 mph but set the display to rpms and all I was getting was the 7800-7850 WOT. Maybe I need to lose a few pounds lol. Lemme know about the install, if its difficult or not.
    P.S. stuckmoto, whats the heat shield? where did you get it and how much?? Your thoughts on filling ride plate holes and thru hull? Worth the time money etc?

  6. #6
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Stage 1 kit: http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1683

    heat shield is in the picture, goes right behind fuel tank in front of engine. You can go to Home Depot, purchase a sheet of this stuff and make it your self for less than $20. Fill ride plate holes with JB WaterWeld - worth about 0.2 mph.........

    Removing the stock air box contraption is no big deal- removing the 3 bolts that hold the SC adapter on is the hardest part. Buy the Fizzle 4" kit it has everything you need. The 2 pictures show what you need to remove.

    I would NOT let a dealer do any of this work - DO IT YOURSELF and learn about your own ski and how to keep it in top condition!

    It is all good!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    stuckmoto's Avatar
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    You can buy 1/2 foam insulation from Home Depot and use aluminum tape - basically it's a "firewall" which blocks hot air to the engine compartment - total price about $15. I believe Gladerider did it and found something like 50 degrees diff. Kinda like this pic >>>http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1683
    When I did my top speed run I ran without filter and took out storage compart.
    Thru hull - sound and removes waterbox - NO performance
    Ride plate holes filled - smooths out the ride plate, at 75+ you want it smooth. JB water weld - $5

  8. #8

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    Thanks for the tips jpt, I will order it up and try and get it put in myself. Might as well get the Fizzle and fill those holes too, then I think I'm done lol. I see you have a Groco strainer? Whats that for? Sure would like to hit 75-76 on mine! (thought by adding the SCOM, repitched prop and R&D grate would have done the trick, guess I need the airflow....)

    Cheers!

  9. #9
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Looks to me like you have two of us telling you exactly the same thing!

  10. #10

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    Right on, will get some JB this week and fill 'em. Whats the Groco for? Any other tips/advice, I appreciate it! Need to move south so I can ride all year long!

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