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  1. #1
    Diznasty's Avatar
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    2002 xlt1200 rebuild(double post)

    hey guys,

    Sorry for the double post but im knee deep in a rebuild. Bought a rough running xlt for $1700 thursday. we tore the engine down lastnight. #3 piston was junked. Just a few questions since this is my first rebuild ever and first ski.

    1) who makes the most reputable rebuild kit? I've read up on SBT,WSM, Pro-X, etc and they all seem the same. Any ideas where i can get more info? i want reliable not big balls.

    2) Are their any downfalls to resleeving the cylinder?

    3) The rear piston was starved of oil. Bone dry. We later saw the oil line was disconnected from the carb and oil was laying everywhere. Not sure if we did it when we were breaking the engine down but I dont think it was us since the oil line was pulled back in the sheathing and oil was all over the place. Is there a check valve in the carb that would cause the line to blow off? I dont want to switch to premix because we take trips from marina to marina and idont want to have to worry about trying to mix gas at the pump.

    4) any secrets on keeping the pv's clean? mine were all gummed up and full of crap. Looks like it will be a yearly cleaning.

    thanks in advance for all the help. Like i said ive never done this before and there is so much knowledge out there im overwelmed with all the research.


  2. #2

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    You made good points and asked good questions.

    1. Do not mix and match components. If you have stock components on #1 & #2, then go with the same on #3. Check cylinder, head, and powervalve and make sure they can be cleaned up and are within tolerences. Check greenhulk classifieds for what you need.

    2. Same answer, don't mix and match. The nicasil cylinders are very resistant to lean seizures and have less friction to the rings.....IMHO they are better than the resleeved.

    3. Looks like you found your original problem with the disconnected oil line, and it is a problem with the older boats because the oil lines get brittle and vibrate off. No there is no check valve. The real fix is to go premix, but if you choose to stick with oil injection, double tie wrap your NEW oil lines for security.

    4. It is part of your preventative manitenance to regularly clean your power valves. To increase the run time from cleaning to cleaning, use a fully synthetic oil such as Klotz or Amzoil. They burn much, much cleaner. I use Amzoil and took mine out to clean after about 45 hours.... it was a waste of time.

  3. #3

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    Please be sure to pressure test the engine after your repairs... an air leak will have you back in there in no time!

    Glad to see you got a good deal on it... take your time and do the job right now. You'll learn alot more about your ski and be better off for it.

    While you've got it apart... you may want to go through the carb's now too... If they've never been rebuilt It could save you some aggrivation later too.

    Oh, and IMHO.... Go Premix!!!

  4. #4
    Diznasty's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I think as for questions 1&2 i am going with an SBT single cylinder exchange package. Plus 2 new piston kits for the other two cylinders. I might as well pick up power valve rebuild kits too with new levers. What are the tolerances for the pv's? Also, dumb question, but what do you clean yours with? I just sprayed one down with carb and choke cleaner and have it soaking in oil now. I'm not sure if they have some sort of passivation on them to prevent corrosion or not.

    Dumb question number two....and im guilty of not really trying to look before i asked....but where do i hook up the hose so I can test run this bad boy once its done? Whats the break procedure too?

    Im just full of questions here...thanks

  5. #5
    Diznasty's Avatar
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    Ok here is my list of parts:

    1) SBT single cylinder exchange
    2) 2 additional SBT pistion kits for the #1 and #2 pistons (pistons are still good but while im in there i should change them)
    3) Riva wave-eater pv clips
    4) SBT levers
    5) Riva d-plate

    Im still thinking about switching to pre-mix.... Keep in mind this ski is for my girl and some extra work now will prevent and ear full later... haha

  6. #6
    You better check the crank. If you lost oil and it ran long enough to toast the cylinder the crank may be bad also. I have a XL1200 that lost the oil line on #3 also. I pulled the motor and sent it off for a rebuild. If you miss 1 thing when you replace the cylinder you could ruin your new parts. By the time you replace the crank,cylinder,and pistons you can have a rebilt motor with warranty. Thats my 2 cents worth.

  7. #7

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    I believe that SBT cyinders are sleeved. Are your other two cylinders stock (nicasil)? If so, then SBT is probably not the best of choices. You could have your s repaired and renicasiled.

  8. #8
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lt92 View Post
    You better check the crank. If you lost oil and it ran long enough to toast the cylinder the crank may be bad also. I have a XL1200 that lost the oil line on #3 also. I pulled the motor and sent it off for a rebuild. If you miss 1 thing when you replace the cylinder you could ruin your new parts. By the time you replace the crank,cylinder,and pistons you can have a rebilt motor with warranty. Thats my 2 cents worth.
    +1 If your crank rod is discolored (blue from heat) check it to make sure its not bad.

    Its bad to spend the money to get one fixed and have a rod go through the cases.

    If you go with SBT get the nicasil i think they carry them now.

    As far as premix they have a bottle with gallons on it and the mixing ratios so if your mixing 40-1 and put 10 gallons of gas in you just look on the bottle and fill with oil to the 10 gallon mark. easy to do on the water since you got to bring oil with you when you fill up at the docks.

  9. #9

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    Check these guys out... I'm considering them for my next project...

    http://www.mt-llc.com/Watercraft/watercraft1.html

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtinker View Post
    Check these guys out... I'm considering them for my next project...

    http://www.mt-llc.com/Watercraft/watercraft1.html

    Excellent choice. I had 3 done in 2002 and they are still running today. They are completely sandblasted and come back with no paint. You must send pistons with them so that they will match them up. They DID NOT pay any attention to the numbers stamped on the cylinders and use them as a point of reference, only your piston. Make sure you send them the piston that matches your cylinder.

    At least that is how they did it in 2002.

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