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  1. #1
    ricky86's Avatar
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    need help with cc setup

    Hi guys iím going to build a race boat for cc racing but i,m not that experienced with the setups used on the RXP for cc. (Iím used to race with a seadoo xp)
    This is what iím planning to do with the performance parts.
    - ported head - riva 3 gen intercooler
    - x or xxx charger depending on the budget - riva pro serieís ecu
    - bosch 48ís - riva rrfpr
    - riva rear air intake - turbo tech fuel rail
    - ARP head studs - riva valve train upgrade
    - riva openloop cooling kit
    - riva waterbox
    - innovate mtx-l

    Handling parts
    - Lowered stock sponsons - riva ride plate
    - Riva intake grate with R&D girdle - RE opas Block off kit
    - R&D auto drop nozzle - R&D reduction nozzle
    - Umi steering - speedfreaks bellow


    Is this a good setup for cc racing??
    how about the use of a riva / hks bov yes or no ??
    what size prop is best for cc racing ??



  2. #2
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    I would go with a Les Cooke re mapped ECU they are better for CC then the Riva Prob best to go with a map for 60lb injectors if your going to run the xxx charger. 42s if your going with a X charger.

    Porter head is a good idea.

    Get the fizzle ICer kit from the online store it's much cheaper then the riva and does a good job at the sort of boost you will be running.

    Normally you can't run the riva rear air as it doest have the correct flame arrestor as per IJSBA rules, you would need to check your rules out, what I will say is that setup is likely to take on water in CC racing, better off with a 4" setup to the front bucket.

    riva water box is good.

    Riva open loop is good too.

    The riva valve train is very good, and safe. No need for ARP head bolts the stockers are fine.

    The Worx intake grate is the ticket for CC it has much better hookup then the riva, although the riva is faster in flat water.

    Lowers stock sponsons 23mm is perfect, riva plate is good but will need shimming down at the back as it has too much lift for CC racing, awesome grip in the turns tho.

    I would personly go with a driveshaft seal over the bellow band, they take more manta but for racing it's fine, also the Les Cooke adjustable pump cone works extremely well to combat cavitation.

    R88

  3. #3
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    Stay away from the aftermarket driveshaft seal is good advice 99% of the time... Also Skip the fuel rail too!

  4. #4
    ricky86's Avatar
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    oke guys thanks for the info

    why dump the fuel rail??

    what about the prop size ??

  5. #5
    JPR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricky86 View Post
    Hi guys i’m going to build a race boat for cc racing but i,m not that experienced with the setups used on the RXP for cc. (I’m used to race with a seadoo xp)
    This is what i’m planning to do with the performance parts.
    - ported head - riva 3 gen intercooler
    - x or xxx charger depending on the budget - riva pro serie’s ecu
    - bosch 48’s - riva rrfpr
    - riva rear air intake - turbo tech fuel rail
    - ARP head studs - riva valve train upgrade
    - riva openloop cooling kit
    - riva waterbox
    - innovate mtx-l

    Handling parts
    - Lowered stock sponsons - riva ride plate
    - Riva intake grate with R&D girdle - RE opas Block off kit
    - R&D auto drop nozzle - R&D reduction nozzle
    - Umi steering - speedfreaks bellow


    Is this a good setup for cc racing??
    how about the use of a riva / hks bov yes or no ??
    what size prop is best for cc racing ??
    I also would go with a Les cook reflash and 60`s.
    front mount 4 inch air
    and if the budget stretches a pump extension.
    worx grate are the go for cc.
    and lifters ! got to hold those feet in !
    with all that you need wider bars (rethnol 32`s )and finger throttle with odi grips to hang on..
    like rory said go the fizzle kit so you can save a few $ and get others.
    seat cover !
    personally with that boost I wouldn't port the head (unless it was already apart) and spend my money on handling or trim tabs.. but that`s my opinion.
    good luck with it all i`m sure you will have a blast !

  6. #6
    JPR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricky86 View Post
    oke guys thanks for the info

    why dump the fuel rail??

    what about the prop size ??
    stock fuel rail is fine, its a cosmetic thing..... prop may differ depending on the final choices but personally I would go a 14/19 skat and tweek to suit...

  7. #7
    ricky86's Avatar
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    thanks, i'm going to contact les cooke for the ecu, was already planning on doing a seatcover from gripgear.com and on doing 32'' handlebars with the odi's and the riva throtlle lever. going to run a 4 inch front air intake on the advise from you guys. still have 3 questions.

    - how about running a bov in cc yes or no
    - what is the best location for the front air ( guess under the steering high from the floor )
    Last edited by ricky86; 08-01-2011 at 12:16 PM.

  8. #8
    ricky86's Avatar
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    also i'm going to start a project tread about my build when i have all the parts and start to build it
    Last edited by ricky86; 08-08-2011 at 12:10 PM.

  9. #9
    R88ory RXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricky86 View Post
    thanks, i'm going to contact les cooke for the ecu, was already planning on doing a seatcover from gripgear.com and on doing 32'' handlebars with the odi's and the riva throtlle lever. going to run a 4 inch front air intake on the advise from you guys. still have 3 questions.

    - how about running a bov in cc yes or no
    - what is the best location for the front air ( guess under the steering high from the floor )
    Grip gear = slip gear!!!! there seat covers look nice but dont have as much grip as the jettrim stuff IMO

    Obviosly they both have different material options and I havent personly riden with all options but from my expirience and feedback from others the Jettrim stuff is better.

    Prop is a personal thing, I run 3 blades, 14/18 in both my skis. I like the way they work but they are not for everyone. A four blade can work very well for CC but they take some work. it all depends on the circits you ride and length of holeshot. I do have a 4 blade when topspeed is more important.

    R88

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