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  1. #1

    genesis no spark problem

    Hey, I have 2000 genesis (carb) and got no spark. here is what I have done so far:

    -removed black and yellow wire in electrical box (read this was the kill) still no spark

    -removed grey wire in electrical box (read this sometimes grounds and prevents spark) Still no spark

    -tested pick up coils in the stator by using a 9volt battery and turning the engine slowly- my ohms was 104 which was a little high but my manual said that did not really matter as long as it went from ohms to infinity quickly which it did, did on all 3 wires with same results so they seem ok to me

    -ohmed out stator wires as per the manual and that was correct. Black was direct to ground and the rest where open between all wire. I tested so much I cant remember every wire I tested but I got reading like it showed in the manual

    -tested coil pack like the manual showed and all the resistance reading was good. plug wires ohmed good also.

    everything I have tried test good to what I can tell so i am confused on what to try next. I had good grounds from block to everywhere I checked, battery voltage was good and strong and all voltage test seemed correct. How to actually test the coil pack other then ohms since all that seemed to checkout? what kind of voltage is being supplied to the coil pack via the tan/red wire (i think that was the color). secondaries ohmed fine. when seeing if power was going to the pack i was not reading any voltage which concerns me. that tan/red wire is supposed to (mag) magneto. Is there another test I can perform on the magneto? coil pack?


  2. #2
    Have you checked the CDI yet? Mine was toast along with the stator. I guess the previous owner didn't believe in fuses.

  3. #3
    I checked a few more things. First the brown wire on the board has battery voltage all the time, I thought this wire was supposed to supply voltage to the sensors when spinnning? its there all the time. My next question is the orange wires on the board. When the unit is off, these orange wires are direct to ground, once you start turning the engine over, it switches to + voltage but my question is that it starts at 2.5 volts about and slowly starts to rise as you turn the engine over, so after about 10 seconds it reaches about 7 volts. Should these orange wires switch +12 volts instantly when you start cranking the engine over? this is when it sounds like it should do of what I read.

  4. #4
    anyone selling a cdi for 3 cyl carb 2000 genesis?

  5. #5
    casey67's Avatar
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    Something does not sound right.
    Brown wire on board ???? pictures.
    Brown from CDI to stator should have about 9v while cranking -possibly also when the CDI is woken up.
    What voltage do you have on red/pur into CDI when cranking.

    Yes,orange should have 10.6 + volts after cranking,fairly quickly,not sure if it goes to ground when off.
    Does the Genesis have the red/pur CDI wire go to the org terminals ?

  6. #6
    Ok, brown wire on board has 9.5 volts all the time, of course I checked it once and it did not have anything till I cranked it again. Idk why that was. Brown wire on cdi is almost 9v while cranking. Red/pur wire at cdi is 11.3 volts while cranking. All the orange wires are to ground till it either cranks or you hit the bilge pump, then it goes to +voltage. Before while cranking the orange started low then rised to around 7 volts, now when testing it was 11+ volts as soon as I started cranking. The pur/red line is tied into an orange line which connects to all the orange connections on the board. There is a red/purp wire that is tied together like there would of been a another connector on it but it dead ends and loops back to itself. electrical tape was over this connection.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jason217 View Post
    There is a red/purp wire that is tied together like there would of been a another connector on it but it dead ends and loops back to itself. electrical tape was over this connection.
    This is where the red/pur from the CDI was originally connected and gives continuous voltage. The org to red/pur splice to red/pur CDI was an update......this updated power connection to the CDI cuts power to the CDI when the engine is off......it seems the CDI had a bad habit thinking the engine was still running if it had continuous voltage even when the engine was off........resulting in no-starts after running for a time. Eventually the CDI resets and you'll restart.

    Regardless, it sounds to me in my limited experience working on my 2001 Virage with similar ignition components.........like you have a failed or failing LR-505 (voltage regulator). This is the smaller black box which sits on top of the CDI. To test the LR505, disconnect all wires going to it.......there are a couple wires (red & orange I believe) which connect to the board and the rest are inline connections. Once you've done that, find the black/white striped wire (non LR505 side) and attach it to the ground bar on top of the CDI. In disconnecting the LR505, you lose the "stop" portion of your "start/stop" control button and you'll have to kill the engine by pulling the lanyard. Also, with the LR505 disconnected, you're getting no battery charge, so even running the engine is a drain on the battery and it will go quickly with starting/running.......so make sure you keep your battery strong so as to not skew your testing.

    If you still have no spark after LR505, try reconnecting the CDI red/pur (LR505 still disconnected) to the original red/purple "Y" which comes off the breaker.

    Try either/both and see if you get spark. I will say that an inline spark indicator has been indispensible for me in working my way through testing. An indicator will show you if there's good spark, weak spark or no spark.

    Anyway, hope that helps and do come back and let us kinow what happens.

  8. #8
    Ok, removed the LR505 all together and still have no spark. I disconnected all the wires and removed it from the box. I reattached all the grond wires though. The black/white wire that would of went to the lr505 I made a jumper and attached that directly to the grounding terminals. Since I still did not have spark, I moved the updated pur/red wire that attached to the orange wire and connected that to you Y connector and then back to the board where all the red/pur wires connected too, still no spark. (should I leave the polaris updated wire in place and also add a jumper to the y connector to the terminal board where all the other red/pur wires connect? Still leaning towards the cdi of everything I tested. Does anyone have a CDI FS?

  9. #9
    and I think the cdi numbers I am looking for will either be a 4010543 or 4010379

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by jason217 View Post
    I moved the updated pur/red wire that attached to the orange wire and connected that to you Y connector and then back to the board where all the red/pur wires connected too, still no spark. (should I leave the polaris updated wire in place and also add a jumper to the y connector to the terminal board where all the other red/pur wires connect? Still leaning towards the cdi of everything I tested. Does anyone have a CDI FS?
    If I understand the above, there is some confusion on my instruction here. Attach the CDI red/pur DIRECTLY to the original "Y" connection.......not the updated splice to the "Y." In connecting the org to red/pur splice to the red/pur "Y" and back to the board you're feeding the orange block.........and you're not getting any voltage to the CDI. Just leave the updated splice in place disconnected for this test.

    The original red/pur "Y" should have 12+ continuous volts which you're going to feed the CDI box for testing purposes. Try that and see if you get any spark and/or measure the voltage on the brown wire leaving the CDI......that should be 9 volts or close.

    It could by you have a bad LR505 or CDI or both.

    New parts should be available either through Babbits or PitStopParts.

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