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  1. #1

    So I broke one the screws on my pump cone. Now what?

    While I was reassembling my pump and putting the 3 screws in my stator cone, one of them snapped off about 3/4 of the way up. The thing has red locktite on it and now I have no idea how to get it out. I was thinking that maybe theres enough thread holding it so that I can just leave it and seal the hole.

  2. #2
    And btw how the hell are you supposed to torque a hex head?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    down under
    Q1: If there is enough thread exposed, use heat and vicegrips to remove. (heat is the cure to all stuck fasteners)

    Q2: The same way as you torque anything. With a torque wrench. Attach a 4mm allen socket.

  4. #4
    nicjak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Warragul, Downunder
    as eel said blue loctite would have been sufficient any good person can tighten by feel..

  5. #5
    There isn't any reason whatsoever to use red loc-tite on any fastener. Take the other 2 screws out and hopefully there is enough sticking out to get a pair of vise-grips on, if that fails get yourself a set of left handed drills, file the screw flush with cone surface, center punch it ,drill a small pilot hole in the dead center then use a large left handed drill with your driver in reverse to screw it out. Dont bother trying an easy out, they are useless.

  6. #6
    Formerly Ultra250 TN Aquaholic6801's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Old Hickory,Tn
    If theres enough thread sticking out you can tack weld a nut or a washer and nut combination to it and back it out with a wrench.....

  7. #7
    After building/Rebuilding over 18,000 Turbochargers for the last 13 years I have broken off 100's of bolts in old rusty turbine housings and aluminum compressor housings. Some can be drilled out and some can't. The ones I couldn't drill I always take them to my local machine shop. Drilling a Stainless Steel bolt out of a Aluminum housing is very difficult. Especially a little 5mm bolt like yours. If your drill bit is not perfectly centered and slips off to one side it will get into the Aluminum and then your done. A skilled machinist and a good mill can cut that bolt out in minutes. I would not hesitate taking to the shop if it was mine.

  8. #8
    Guys I can't get the pump cone off. The screw is broken about a quarter of the way down so it is below the cone surface. I noticed that the hole in the cone isn't threaded till almost right where the cone meets the pump surface. Maybe I can try and strip that little bit of thread and pry the cone off.

  9. #9
    Have you unscrewed that black plastic tip on the end of the cone and used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the cone off? Thats how I always do to get it off. Better than trying to pry it off and beat up the metal doing so. Good news is that it sounds like there my be enough of the bolt left to get it out with some channel locks or a good set of pliers or even double nut if any threads are showing. If need be heat it up with a propane torch to loosen it up. Don't use a oxygen/acetylene torch, It's to hot, unless you have heated aluminum before. Aluminum doesn't get red like steel does when it get hot, it just suddenly turns to mush. Over the years I've gotten good at heating aluminum compressor wheels to get them off turbochargers, but I am not afraid to admit I melted a few before i got good at it.

  10. #10
    shouldn't matter, as long as the head is broken off, the cone should slip off what's left of the bolt. There is a clearance hold drilled through the cone, the cone itself isn't threaded, if it was it would never fully tighten. You need to take off the black plastic end cone, screw a bolt into the cone, put the bolt in a vise and pop the cone off. You can also try gently heating the stator vanes around the cone.

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