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  1. #1

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    XLT1200 Engine Trouble - please help!

    Hi everyone,

    I have a problem with my XLT1200 engine that i hope somebody will be able to advise me on. (2001 Model - 75 Hrs on the clock)

    I have had a good search and found several guys with engines seized but not the exact problem i seem to be facing.

    It all started with the engine coming to an abrupt halt at idle power about 30 secs after start up just as i went to set off, the previous outing a week earlier to this was a good hour run without fault (flushing afterwards too without a problem). After a full investigation of the electrics / battery & then starter removal the engine was still unable to turn. I went onto remove the pump assy which was all fine and free, then the rear section of the exhaust to gain access to the drive shaft and coupling - here lies the problem, with the plugs removed i put a spanner on the shaft flats and tried to turn the engine over, initially the rear section of the shaft moved slightly on the rubber cush drive indicating the rear bearing husing was free and the engine was seized, i continued with a little more pressure and it was tight / very tight, but with some persuasion i managed to free the engine off but only to find it moves through 90 degrees only in either direction. Its is now free as a bird (through 90 degrees) with all x3 pistons moving up and down viewed through the plug holes but it will not turn over any further..??

    Does anyone have any suggestions as to the cause of this? All oil lines appear in place, the hull is clean with no obvious signs of oil.

    Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated - many thanks Rooster


  2. #2
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Sounds like a dropped power valve or a bad cylinder and possible crank.

  3. #3

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    I would think power valve is catching a ring and stopping the piston.

    Pull the head and take a peak at the valves and how they interact with the pistons when you SLOWLY turn the crank. The head gasket is reuseable, so all you will loose is time.

  4. #4
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum rooster

  5. #5

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    Thanks guys - i will pull the head this weekend and let you know what i find. ATB Rooster

  6. #6
    Had the same problem with a truck I had once. Sounds like the piston skirt is making contact with the crank. Later found that the rod was off center on the wrist pin. This put the rod on an angle and shorted the distance between the crank and piston at the bottom of its stroke. Good luck and report back.

  7. #7

    important question...

    salty, are you sure the head gasket is re-usable?

  8. #8

    Join Date
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    If it is a 2001 66V engine, yes it is reuseable.

  9. #9

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    Rear Cylinder - Ouch.........

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00454.jpg 
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ID:	249749

    Hi Guys, well i took the head off over the weekend and here's what i discovered - not pretty. The ring is protruding only allow movement within the exhaust port (hence the 90 degree movement described earlier). Looking at the front cylinder which appears fine it seems the power valve (presuming you have one on each exhaust port) has disappeared completely? Is this normal? i'm still learning so not sure how the power valve system works yet or how it links between the x3 cylinders?

    I guess i'm now in the market for a cylinder & piston kit - any help with this would be greatly appreciated. thanks Rooster

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00454.jpg 
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ID:	249749........I guess i'm now in the market for a cylinder & piston kit - ........
    I almost got it right. The valve did not catch the ring, the ring caught the cylinder.

    Check locally to see if anyone offers to renicasil cylinders. It is probably cost prohibitive to send it to the states. Usually it is cheaper than buying a new one.

    Match your piston to the cylinder by looking at the top of the cylinder. Set the cylinder to where the valve goes into the cylinder at the 6 oclock position, there will be a number stamped at about 5 oclock. Your parts supplier will need that number.

    You will also need the circlips that hold the "new" valve in place along with the seals, new piston rings, and a new base gasket to go between the cylinder and cases. The head gasket is reuseable.

    You MUST account for all missing pieces, like the valve and ring pieces. Check the bottom of the cases and blow it out with high pressure to keep pieces from hiding under the crank. If not, those pieces may come back to haunt you.

    Make a mental note when you pull the valve as to what is the "top" of the power valve and what is the "bottom". It has two distinct sides.

    As far as your other two cylinders, they should probably be OK. Think of each cylinder as an independent little motor that happens to be tied to a common crank. All three are doing the same thing, just at a different part of the crank. The good news is that just because you hurt 1 cylinder does not mean you hurt the other two.

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