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  1. #1

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    2010 FX SHO Stock Intake Grate Re-install Help

    I'm a newbe to this, so any help greatly appreciated. I sucked up my rope in the intake. I got towed to a friends lift, took it out of the water removed the grate cut out the rope and put the grate back on and drove it home. My question is what are the proper torque settings for the grate bolts and what do I use on the threads, if anything. I have heard of using red or blue loctite and silicone. Don't know what to do. Thanks Guys.


  2. #2
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    I only know the torque spec for the FZ, but you absolutely want to use some red 271 loctite. This is what yamaha uses from the factory. I would also use some 3M 5200 FC (or 4200) around the grate mating surfaces, specifically around the bolt mating surfaces. Someone will post the proper torque spec for you

  3. #3

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    OK< THANKS, what is 3M 5200 FC? Silicone????
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    I only know the torque spec for the FZ, but you absolutely want to use some red 271 loctite. This is what yamaha uses from the factory. I would also use some 3M 5200 FC (or 4200) around the grate mating surfaces, specifically around the bolt mating surfaces. Someone will post the proper torque spec for you

  4. #4
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Yup, it's a marine silicone made by 3M and the product name is 5200 FC (fast cure)

  5. #5
    KamikazeGPR's Avatar
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  6. #6
    gordon lasiter #328's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    I only know the torque spec for the FZ, but you absolutely want to use some red 271 loctite. This is what yamaha uses from the factory. I would also use some 3M 5200 FC (or 4200) around the grate mating surfaces, specifically around the bolt mating surfaces. Someone will post the proper torque spec for you
    if you use the 4200 or 5200 and you try to remove it in the future, how difficult will it be?
    and how will that effect the pump tunnel cracking if you do not have the coco skin?
    i have only removed mine to insert the plug kit and used silicone where it mates with the hull.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for all the great info guys. I really appreciate it.

  8. #8
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gordon lasiter #328 View Post
    if you use the 4200 or 5200 and you try to remove it in the future, how difficult will it be?
    and how will that effect the pump tunnel cracking if you do not have the coco skin?
    i have only removed mine to insert the plug kit and used silicone where it mates with the hull.
    Using 4200 will make it easier to remove than 5200. IMO either is fine, you really don't need much of it at all.

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