Thread: Pump will not come out
08-12-2011, 08:28 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Cedar Rapids IA
Pump will not come out
I bought a set of 95 slt 750's. I have read so much information on piston burn and what we need to do. Very useful. Now we are going to pull engine and rebuild carbs. The problem is we can't get the pump to come out. I am sure I saw somewhere that someone else had this problem, but I cant seem to find my way back to that thread.
08-12-2011, 11:04 PM #2
[QUOTE=bbjean10 The problem is we can't get the pump to come out.
Welcome to the Hulk.
K-447 (Keith) has some videos on how to remove the pump assembly. Where are you having the problem?
Theres a water tube that comes out easy enough,then the cotter pin for the trim nozzle, then the 4 long bolts(12 inch kind) that come out,not the bolts that go into the hull.
Then 2 siphon lines with tie wraps on them come off easy enough.. sometimes when the whole assembly lets loose, you can take the driveshaft with it. thats ok. just be sure to find the lil rubber bumpers on the end of both sides of the driveshaft. And dont fall on your ass when it lets loose or else we'll laugh at ya..lol (I'm Kidding!)
If those bumpers are not on it when you take it out, look for them inside the splines. just make sure you have both. they need to go back in. that absorbs shock and vibrations.
if all thats out already and your still having trouble.. sounds like the pump section is stuck a lil and a wooden mallet tapped on the sides of the stator to free it works good. hit the stator pump sideways a few taps and see if that loosens it up.
some have even used a 2 by 4! but be careful.. that puts on a big load on the parts. Sometimes the parts weld together from salt water immersion. if thats the case. then use pentrating fluid around those areas of the pump and try it later after it soaks in.. Might take a bit if thats the case. Fun skis by the way! Congrats.
08-12-2011, 11:10 PM #3
08-13-2011, 09:34 AM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Cedar Rapids IA
Thank you will go out and try again. We bought the set of skis whim. I wish we would have found this site before handing over the cash. The fact I am a Michigan girl lost in Iowa made playing on the water like a drug, so may not have been in the best state of mind to know what we were doing. We were told it only needed a tune up. Lol My boyfriend is a Ford tech so we should be able to follow directions and get this back into shape. Thanks again
08-13-2011, 10:47 AM #5
Cool Biz.. oh yeah, undue the steering cable off the pump too.!! lol figured that was a no brainer.. Maybe Keddano down there in Iowa can meet up with you guys with his wife and go for a ride!.
When reassembling the pump, look for the interlocking tabs on the side of the pump to align it right. Grease that big o-ring before assembly of the nose cone and make sure it seats nicely. otherwise if it leaks, water will get into the bearings and rust them out.
Some guys also replace that bent cotter pin for the trim with a cotter pin that has a bend in it on the 1 side and just slides over. those type don't break from opening them. the straight kind breaks off after a couple bends in them back n forth.. just a thought..
Grease the movable fittings back there too. like the steering pivot ball,put a lil grease in between the stator and wear ring so they don't stick together for easy removal next time.
Dont over torque the long bolts or else they could snap off. then you have big issues..
You can alsp check the wear limit on the impellors blades to the inside diameter of the wear ring with a feeler gauge and see what the tolerence is....It should be real close like 4 thous, the limit is 20 thous and thats a huge gap at 20. if its nots within the limit, your prop has been sanded down by lake sand, or its bent, or the wear ring is worn too far..
08-13-2011, 10:55 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Homer Glen Il.
Hook up with Kedanno on here he's a fellow Mich guy lost in IA .too he can helps you out too
08-13-2011, 11:16 AM #7
If you are new to these skis,,,which it sounds like you are, the 95 slts need a carb rebuild, all new fuel lines and filters,a new way of routing the new lines,getting rid of a thing called an auto cock, and cleaning out the gas tanks completely, changing those nasty ass lines too,remember which ones longer thats your reserve and and main, if you confuse them, you wont have a reserve tank when you switch over. youll be a bobber.
oil tank cleaning, oil line replacement,and new plugs,(NGK BR8ES's) only. They work the best... .) .024" - .028" gap.
And keeping the restrictor located in the return line,
So basically it boils down to this.. for both skis, you will need about 425.00 to do both skis.. Its a must do/ or else what happens is, the original fuel pumps gets weak and starves a cylinder and you get a hole in a piston..
we here it many times.. i was going wot running fantastic and all of a sudden it slowed down a lot but still ran.. holed a piston...thats why..lol you ran it lean and burned one..
so the solution is to do the above. a lot of people have already done it..
It breaks down as folllows..
28-35.oo for a triple oulet fuel pump. 1 for each ski..70.00
you need 6 rebuild kits for the carbs. about 45/piece. that includes the diaphrams for the carbs, but no needles or seats, check them and see whats up..
so thats 260.00
plus 70.00 = 330
new fuel lines, about 40-42 feet should do both skis. about 45.00 1.00 a foot.
new filters. u need 4. about 7.00 a piece. 28.00
oil filters if so inclined,,1 each..5.00
tie wraps for new fuel lines. fuel lines must be coast guard approved black or they sell colored clear ones.. I use the blue myself..
2 caps for the carbs that need to be blocked off as per beerdarts hose routing diagram.
the oil line is special thickness. it is 3 mm id and 7 mm od.. not sure off hand where to get that..
some guys use a reinforced nylon fuel line for the "pulse line",, thats the line that comes from the bottom of the case to the inlet on the fuel pump. they use that tougher line to prevent flexing or flattening of the line.. up to you.. I Havent but sounds like a good idea..
Make sure the new fuel pump is above the pulse line on the engine to prevent any fluid that has accumulated in the case and could possibly make its way to the carbs.. if any fluid gets to that side of the carb, the fuel pump will be weak. make sure the line is 12 inches or less too. guys mount the fuel pump on the bulkhead stringer.
me myself, I mount it exactly where the old one went. i havent had any issues.. some say to put the pump on the hull to prevent all the engine vibration from shaking it to death. but i havent seen any evidence really about that.. just a good precaution I guess. all up to you.. just putting it out there so you know.
the restrictor is located at the end of the fuel rail and about a half inch into the return line going to the tank. It will have a black tie wrap around it if noone has messed with it yet..lol get it out of there and keep it for the new line and put it back where it was before when installing everything..
Got all that? lol Yeah I know its a pain but,,,, you better do it.. let us know if you need more info or pictures or whatever,,,. Trust me, you need to do this stuff before you run them. Nothing worse than having your skis crap out on you out there.. reliabilty is a must for a jetski. its not a boat. it has to run perfect or no riding.. period.
Anyone do a compression check yet A new AGM gel cell batteryis what ya want to have in there also. about 90'piece. well worth the investment and buy a battery tender for the winter months to keep them charged up to snuff.. I did and I love the new AGM batterys in mine.. work great.
08-13-2011, 12:09 PM #8
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Cedar Rapids IA
Ok, it came out. I did a lot of reading before I asked for help, but did not save, thanks bowsniper for bringing it all together for me. I have called John in WI and will be getting fuel pumps, fuel lines, and carb rebuild kit.
The ski I ride runs fine, but we have decided not to ride till pumps are on and lines are changed. The other one has the hole in piston. I plan to pull engine and inspect top end. May have to order one from John.
Off to pull engine, wish us luck.
The engine is out and now waiting for a big box of parts. It will be just like x-mas.
Last edited by bbjean10; 08-15-2011 at 09:00 AM.
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