08-13-2011, 06:25 PM #1
Questions about extending the OEM ride plate and extending the hull where OPAS was
Ok so a buddy of mine who is a master welder says he will extend my ride plate for me by welding a piece of aluminum onto the end to make it longer. Couple questions:
1) how long should I extend it for maximum gain without speed loss
2) what type of aluminum is the OEM plate made of, he did specify he'd need to know the type for welding
3) can it be done on the hull with the pump removed? I know it generates heat, but aluminum will dicipate it fast and I know the fiberglass can take it but I'm just worried about the coils inside the plate... but they look to be far back from the edge.
Your opinions please, trying to get this thing to stop wanting to jump even at the slightest wake. By jump, I mean bounce the front "porpose". I'm great at working with fiberglass, I was going to extend the ride plate, and make custom hull extensions for where the OPAS paddles were. Now I have a question on that, can the extensions beneift from being a little longer then the hull, or pretty much just make them even out the back of the hull and meet up with the sides with a smooth transition on the bottom...?
I look forward to the replies,
08-13-2011, 06:47 PM #2
2 inches is common...keep it planted..make the opas extension adjustable trim tabs...speed loss is possible..with the reide plate extension..as you trim up it digs in...and creates drag...i angled mine up..about 3 to 5 degrees or so..to keep it from doing so..as much look at the new rxpx oem plate it has an angle cut into the rear of it for that reason..
08-13-2011, 07:00 PM #3
Do you have a picture of what you did to the ride plate? What do you mean by make the opas extensions adjustable trim tabs?
08-13-2011, 07:06 PM #4
look at the 2012 rxpx they have the trim tabs stock..you tube the riva 2012 rxp..i run a riva plate..it has an angled cut out but you can see the hard edge is cut off the rear of the 2012 rxp plate..
08-13-2011, 07:09 PM #5
Oh ok so I can extend it basically 2" just angle it up so that when the nose is up it's digging into the water... I guess I could experiment with the angle afterwards as well with a grinder or sanding block since it is aluminum... This is the stock ride plate BTW can I weld it on on the ski? That's my big thing, I'm not to into removing the OEM plate...
08-13-2011, 07:15 PM #6
I looked at the 2012 rxp... are you talking about the tabs at the rear bottom of the hull? Regardless making them adjustable will be a whole differerent ball game and likely difficult as heck. I had planned to use the OEM paddle mount over blockoff plates to make extensions out of fiberglass that would bolt to the plates and meet up flush with the hull on the sides and bottom following the contour of the hull... basically just filling in that whole missing section where the paddles were... is that the best ideal?
08-13-2011, 07:29 PM #7
fillling in the cut outs will help alot with the porpusing
08-13-2011, 07:43 PM #8
as for the welding on the ski?? probably i would say as long as he doesnt burn through ..coolant inside..just weld a little and run a hose over it to cool it before it transfers to much to the hull...
08-14-2011, 11:27 AM #9
I mentioned about cooling with water and he said no it will make the metal brittle. I thought maybe for steel, but aluminum especially that think I would think it would not be a problem?
08-14-2011, 05:15 PM #10
honestly... he thinks to much ....he is probably a very good welder ..but you have to do what you have to do..buy the text book he is probably correct..but this isnt the space shuttle....you just need to cool it with air and or wet rags...before the heat transfers..i weld and fabricate all the time i build racecars for a living..check out my build thread.....i make a thing or 2..
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