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  1. #1

    Unhappy Did I just ruin my engine?

    So in the most amateur of all shade-tree mechanic moves, I'm fearful that I've pretty much destroyed my freshly rebuilt engine...

    It would appear that I did not reinstall the three exhaust manifold bolts on the PTO cylinder during engine reassembly . Took the jet to the ramp for a 10 minute idle ring burn in and started her up on the trailer and let her idle... closed up hatch on car came back and saw water puking from said manifold. Then the engine sputtered out.

    Got home, punched myself in the face with my torque wrench repeatedly until I got pretty dizzy...

    Took off the cylinder heads and PTO all greenish gooed. CNT the same. MAG not as bad.

    All three cylinders had water in them. Dried them out but there's still water spraying everywhere when I crank the motor over...

    I feel like f-in crying... I put so many hours of meticulousness (there's some irony for ya) into this rebuild and now to have f-ed it all up over such an incredibly stupid move like this really pisses and sadly disappoints me all at the same time.

    I sprayed down the cylinder with WD40 to hopefully prevent rust immediately appearing, but I'm sure time is of the essence, and nightfall is now upon me...

    Should I just part this damn thing out, (I really like this ski) or is there a cure?

    Heckling isnt really necessary, but I do appreciate any help you can provide. That is if I haven't shot myself by then

  2. #2
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Tampa, FL
    Take plugs out and crank till no more water come out of plug holes. Put some fuel down carb throat and try to get her running asap. You can run her dry for 15-20 secs, the heat will help drying her out.
    Then wait like 20 mins or so and run her again if you'd like, keep feeling the cylinders make sure they're just warm, not hot.

  3. #3
    Did just that, thank you!

    Pulled cylinder heads dried as much as I could, reassembled and she fired up. Ran pretty sluggish though, shut her down and will wait for 20 mis. I'm assuming there's probably quite a bit of water in the crankcase, does this procedure get it that out?

  4. #4
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Tampa, FL
    If she revs up, that will get the water out. I'm sure there's some moisture left. WD-40 down the carb while cranking it wouldn't hurt.
    Did you reassemble the manifold? If so, put her on garden hose and you can run her for minute and a half (any longer may mess up your drive shaft seal), the longer she runs the less moisture is left in there. Make sure to shut off water before killing the engine. Better yet, shut off water, repeatedly rev her up for 10-15 seconds then shut her off.

  5. #5
    So despite it being 11 o'clock at night and all, should I venture to my local boat ramp (about 3 minutes away) and let it run in the water, strapped to my trailer?

    I still need to let the ski run at idle for 10 minutes to seat my new piston ring...

    What do you think?

  6. #6
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Tampa, FL
    Not sure about strapped to trailer thing, but it's against the law to operate a PWC after sunset.
    If it wasn't salt water in there, I would just fog (oil) it and worry about it tomorrow.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    What ski are we talking about here? On Fuji engines you need to LIGHTLY seat the manifold bolts to get the cylinder aligned, torque the cylinder base nuts, then torque the manifold. On Domestic engines you have to fully torque the manifold then torque the base nuts.
    Well, I've got the Fuji engine. So should I loosen the manifold and cylinder head bolts and re-tighten in the order described above? I dont recall the FSM saying this, but I was all over the place only printing certain pages... Maybe I missed it. I definitely torqued the cylinder head base nuts first, as I forgot to install the PTO manifold bolts altogether, although they're in now. (I only replaced the PTO cylinder)

  8. #8
    hey bro, i posted a similar thread in yamaha 2 stroke. my exhaust bolts were not torqued proper. just after a fresh topend i took mine out and filled the hull with that water your talking about. its SUPPOSED to be exiting the exhaust! filled her up quick. trailored it immediatlely. . I could tell something was wrong because it lost the top end as it filled up the hull. after sitting on the trailor, still bogged. it wasnt till i got it home and tilted the trailor all the way up and drained the hull completely that i got my throttle back. it fires off now just like when it did at first, and as much abuse as these two strokes take, im sure itll be fine.

    Still would like to know what caused a slightly high water level to effect my top end throttle response until it was drained.

    Hope for the best. just wanted you to know your not the only one to pull this idiot meneuver

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by alemonnation View Post
    Hope for the best. just wanted you to know your not the only one to pull this idiot maneuver
    Thanks for the support, man. I drenched her internals with WD40 last night fired up three times at 20+ minutes intervals and totday sounded pretty good. Just praying rust didnt get too established on crank bearings...

  10. #10
    Ski's running well from what I can tell. Cant ride her yet tho cuz my filler neck cracked b/c my pressure relief valve seems to be stuck-up... And today Lake Erie is like GLASS

    Dial Calipered the crank index and she's spot on so, thankfully no hydro-locking. Left her on trailer and idled her for a good 15mins yesterday to help get new rings and seals going.

    More to come later I guess; I'm patiently awaiting my parts

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