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  1. #1

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    Painting a jet ski?

    Hey guys I'm thinking about painting my Kawasaki x2 and I was wondering how to do it, and would I be better taking it to a custom paint shop and having them paint it. Please help.


  2. #2
    the wotman likes boobs wotman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJC View Post
    Hey guys I'm thinking about painting my Kawasaki x2 and I was wondering how to do it, and would I be better taking it to a custom paint shop and having them paint it. Please help.
    go chat to your local auto paint supplier
    it is easy to do, if you have an air compressor and a spray gun.
    get a quote from a paint shop first, just in case its not as dear as you think.

  3. #3
    steve45's Avatar
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    Painting is the easy part, all the preparation is the hard part. Taking off all the trim pieces, mats, etc., then cleaning and prepping the surface will take days. Any surface flaws filled & sanded, then dirt and oil must be removed.

    Have you got a way to turn it upside down to do the bottom?

  4. #4
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    Painting is pointless with out a booth u will just wind up with crap in ur paint. A good hvlp gun compressor and filters are needed at a minim. Paint shop will prob be cheaper

  5. #5
    WOODSTER's Avatar
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    I've painted three of my own, & it's not really to bad. Like Steve45 says you need to be sure you have a very good prep job, or your time & money is a waist. I have also learned over the three that I have done, that your prep in or what area you are spraying is clean. Sweep & wet down the floor to eliminate dust. Most important part PATIENCE Something that I don't have very much of.

  6. #6

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    paint jet ski

    I have painted several x-2 and stand ups.

    Prep time must be followed evertime. The first time i painted was a car hood, it turned out like crap. So i followed a guy, he showed me i did not need a paint booth. I made my own 10 x 15 paint booth out of 6 mill plastic visqueen and a HEPA filtration system. it is really easy with lots of lights.

    I stripped off the decals with a heat gun, used degreaser to remove oil and grease, used a cleaning agent to remove old decals ( sticky stuff).

    to repair dock rash or scrapes,( hey we all got them) i used bondo or other good product. If your trying to close a hole ( exhaust port to change over to rear exhaust ) then use fiberglass patch , let dry and reapplie and then bondo over top of that.

    Remember to get all the nickled edges from repairs done, because it will show up in paint stage. Well if you think you have it all done yet? Its time to paint and test your work. Apply 1 coat of primer, go back and look over your work look for imperfections, nickled egdes and rolling bumbs caused by sanders and hand sanding . Reapply bondo to these areas, dry sand and wet sand these areas. applie 2nd coat of primer use a Halogen lignt and look for imperfections. Sorry i have turned into a perfectionist at this point.

    Paint stage, I like to have a bright color or white in my engine compartment so i can see problems or fix stuff easily.

    My standups were my Freestylers so we always painted our bottom keels. Remember you cannot put your pwc on the sand or gravel bar anymore. take care of it!

  7. #7
    the wotman likes boobs wotman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snoproken View Post
    I have painted several x-2 and stand ups.

    Prep time must be followed evertime. The first time i painted was a car hood, it turned out like crap. So i followed a guy, he showed me i did not need a paint booth. I made my own 10 x 15 paint booth out of 6 mill plastic visqueen and a HEPA filtration system. it is really easy with lots of lights.

    I stripped off the decals with a heat gun, used degreaser to remove oil and grease, used a cleaning agent to remove old decals ( sticky stuff).

    to repair dock rash or scrapes,( hey we all got them) i used bondo or other good product. If your trying to close a hole ( exhaust port to change over to rear exhaust ) then use fiberglass patch , let dry and reapplie and then bondo over top of that.

    Remember to get all the nickled edges from repairs done, because it will show up in paint stage. Well if you think you have it all done yet? Its time to paint and test your work. Apply 1 coat of primer, go back and look over your work look for imperfections, nickled egdes and rolling bumbs caused by sanders and hand sanding . Reapply bondo to these areas, dry sand and wet sand these areas. applie 2nd coat of primer use a Halogen lignt and look for imperfections. Sorry i have turned into a perfectionist at this point.

    Paint stage, I like to have a bright color or white in my engine compartment so i can see problems or fix stuff easily.

    My standups were my Freestylers so we always painted our bottom keels. Remember you cannot put your pwc on the sand or gravel bar anymore. take care of it!
    you can if you use the right paint on the bottom. ceramic 2-pak, (scratch proof paint).

  8. #8
    have a lot of experience painting and repairing ski's , some suggestions from past work .use only epoxy or other fillers no bondo it is not waterproof will blister up if it gets a chip in area where repaired. use only epoxy primer because regular automotive primer is not waterproof and water will soak through paint and blister the paint . i have seen this happen on cars behind moldings all the paint came off when molding was removed . if you pay to have it painted make sure to ask questions as i have not seen any auto paint manufacture that will warranty their products for use in water.if you do it yourself clean sand clean is best advice. you can also dismantle ,prep yourself and get it sprayed at a local shop. and save some cash. just ask how they want it preped.

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