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  1. #1
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Cool 94 Polaris SLT 750 Rebuild - Carb Tuning Help

    Thank you to the forum for helping me succussfully (so far) rebuild my first ski. I picked up a used ski for cheap and needed some serious overhaul.

    So far:
    Water drained from crank and carbs
    Interior of carbs rusted - salvage parts as possible - Carbs replaced with used - thoroughly cleaned prior to reinstall.
    Crank case cleaned out
    PTO (looked like junkboy66 parts) and MAG (Holed) pistons replaced
    PTO Cylinder Replaced
    All three cylinders honed
    New rings on center piston
    Reeds and reed cages cleaned and reinstalled
    New gaskets throughout
    Removed oil pump and installed block off plate
    Removed oil tank and terminated wires with resistor in electrical box
    Replaced factory fuel pump with 3 outlet pump
    Replaced electronics box (heavily corroded) and all wiring
    Replaced all fuel lines including lines in fuel tank (clunks were still hanging onto the completely deteriorated OEM lines)
    Fabricated restrictor utilizing 1/4" brass coupler, #90 jet from salvaged carbs, and 5mm x .75 tap
    Cleaned out gas tank
    Removed, cleaned, and lubricated fuel selector switch
    Removed, cleaned and reinstalled jet pump (rebuild coming soon)
    Replaced thru hull fitting
    Replaced starter motor
    Compression 120-115-120
    Fresh Gas / oil mixed at 32:1 for break in

    Future - Carb rebuild kit x 3, jet pump rebuild kit, new impeller
    Got it to start and run for the first time on Friday...SUCCESS!!

    Time to tune the carbs - looking for any suggestions on a good process to fine tune out of the water first (lake is 45 minutes away), then final adjustments on the water. I got it to start up based on Clymer high and low speed needle valve factory positions.

    Thank you for all of the help, past and future!!


  2. #2
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Water drained from crank and carbs
    Crank case cleaned out


    Time to tune the carbs - looking for any suggestions on a good process to fine tune out of the water first (lake is 45 minutes away), then final adjustments on the water. I got it to start up based on Clymer high and low speed needle valve factory positions.
    Water inside the crankcase? Was it not all rusted to pieces? If you had water in the bottom end of that motor and did not replace the crank, you're probably going to have a failure at some point down the road.

    You can't really tune the carbs out of the water. Setting them to factory spec plus about 1/8 turn more to be a little rich is about right. Once you get on the water and finish your break-in period you can then do full throttle runs in very short bursts. You should be able to grab the throttle from idle, get on plane, and achieve 6250 RPM in a short distance. If you're just a little shy of that max RPM it's okay since your carbs should be a little rich if you've set them an extra 1/8 turn out.

    Once you run the ski for a while and do some WOT bursts you should be able to develop a good piston wash pattern. Once you have that you can know whether to lean or richen the jets.

    KJ

  3. #3
    lots off work
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