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  1. #1

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    Gas Tank Removal

    Hey guys. I'm a noobie here. I just acquired a 2000 Polaris Virage ( 2 cyl red engine) last weekend. The price was right. FREE!!! It needs a lot of TLC. So far this is what I have done to it with the help of the Hulk. Fixed broken reverse cam. Replaced Tempo fuel lines. Fixed leaky oil sending unit. Replaced bad bilge plug. Replaced fuse that cause display to not work. The things that need to be done for sure is 1) rebuild carb 2) find limp mode cause 3) top end rebuild (65psi on compression check) 4) cracked hull repair. This is where the gas tank removal comes in. The crack is about 20" long on the left side, just to the left of the gas tank. It leaks pretty bad through it. Does anyone know if the tank can come out the front hatch or does the engine need to come out and it goes out through the seat portion?


  2. #2
    GGG's Avatar
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    It wont fit out the front

  3. #3

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    Bummer. Thanks GGG.

  4. #4
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GGG View Post
    It wont fit out the front
    Really? All of the older models I've worked on (SLT and SL) I was able to get the tank out of the front hatch. Hmmm.

    BTW, be sure to use EPOXY resin for all repairs. Do not use regular polyester resin because it won't stick long term. These hulls were made with SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) and require Epoxy to properly bond with the original material.

    KJ

  5. #5

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    It sure would make it much easier to come out the front. Because the previous owner did not fix the leaking oil sending unit for years, I may have a hard time getting epoxy to bond to the existing hull. Is there a temporary fix that I could do until the off season? Currently the bilge pump is able to keep up with the leak but water does come in at a pretty good pace.

  6. #6
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpolk View Post
    I may have a hard time getting epoxy to bond to the existing hull. Is there a temporary fix that I could do until the off season?
    Epoxy will bond just fine. Just use a good degreaser and scrub everything well. Then, use laquer thinner and finally accetone. Use a 60 grit to rough up everything on the inside, blow or vacuum the dust, wipe again with acetone and you're ready to start laying up glass. On the outside you need to grind off the finish coat, angle grind into the split, and put at least one layer of glass to fill that void. Finally you can smooth over the exterior with a faring compound mixed into the epoxy resin.

    I really don't know that I would use a temporary fix because that will just lead to more work down the road. If you get on the stick you can have this repair done in 3 evenings or less. You can just spray paint the exterior for now and then this winter sand that off and finish it properly. However, the main thing is to make sure the glass structure is properly repaired to avoid any more damage.

    KJ

  7. #7
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    If you have to fix the engine just pull it out. its a lot easier to work on that way and will make the gas tank very easy to get out.

  8. #8
    stubburnjdh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    If you have to fix the engine just pull it out. its a lot easier to work on that way and will make the gas tank very easy to get out.
    You just like doing things the easy way.

  9. #9
    GGG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    Really? All of the older models I've worked on (SLT and SL) I was able to get the tank out of the front hatch. Hmmm.

    BTW, be sure to use EPOXY resin for all repairs. Do not use regular polyester resin because it won't stick long term. These hulls were made with SMC (Sheet Molded Compound) and require Epoxy to properly bond with the original material.

    KJ
    Actually Im wrong. You can get it out the front, All you have to do is cut the front compartment opening bigger. Since youll have the epoxy out, glue the pieces back on

  10. #10

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    Ok guys, I get the hint I have a lot of work to do on this ski.

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