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  1. #1

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    62T crankcase leak near rear seal at housing - need to disassemble engine to fix?

    Hi all, working on my project waverunner that I picked up with a blown engine. 99 xl700 w/62T. got it with blown cylinder. Put new top end on and did leakdown test. Was losing about 0.75psi/minute. located a leak (not surprisingingly below the cylinder that was blown.) in the casing near the rear seal (about an inch or so away from seal). a few questions:

    1. Is it most likely casing gasket material or seals?
    2. Do I need to disassmble everything again to fix this? since the top end is intact or can I just loosen the motor mounts, lift it out, flip it over and work on it like that? (and can this be done by hand or is this too heavy...)
    3. Can I reuse the new gaskets on parts I separate if I have to take it apart again. Havent run it. compression is good 140ish each with cheap tester.
    4. Can I change the seals without having to pull the flywheel? and if not is it best to do that in or out of the ski?

    Thanks!
    Matt


  2. #2
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Pull the motor out, remove the PTO coupler and flywheel, flip the engine upside down, separate the crankcase, clean up everything, replace all the crank seals, and seal the crank case back up. You'll have to lift the crank a little bit to slip the seals in so be careful you don't pull the pistons too far out and also make sure you get the crank bearing alignment pins lined back up.
    The engine is light enough to do this all by hand

  3. #3

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    Thanks, you're awesome...you just made my day!

  4. #4
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Your welcome. Use OEM seals...or you'll most likely be doing it all over again shortly

  5. #5

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    Had a hard time removing the engine once I got the mounting loose. Didnt want to fit unless I am geometrically challenged. I had the head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold on. I ended up having to remove one of the mounting plates and the large rubber engine mount to get it out and barely made it out of the housing. I was hoping to fix everything outside of the engine pressure test it and put it back in. Is this possible? being that the engine mounting plate appears to go through the lower housing am i best removing the head and manifolds and leaving the cylinders intact?? If so can I reuse a head gasket that was compressed.....AAAAAgh

    Also oil in the magneto house would be a sign of a leaking front seal correct? Also do I need to loosen / remove the magneto? Dont see how I can do it without it to get the front seal replaced unless I havent gone far enough. Concerned about placement and timing.

  6. #6
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    I'm not really familiar with the XL's opening to slide the engine in and out. Must be tight though, huh? Did you have the carbs and exhaust pipe and chamber off. I would think you could sneak it out that way, but maybe not. If you have to leave something off when reinstalling, try leaving all the exhaust off. Hopefully then you can slide the engine it, with the bed plates and intake on.

  7. #7

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    Carb bases on (not carbs) and exhaust manifold only. Like a square peg in a round hole. I dont really want to do this work in the hull but wanted to do a leak down test prior to install to make sure when I put it back on that its tight. Guess I could do it and remove the head Think the head is the main interference. Can I reuse the head gasket if I take it off? Also cant get the PTO coupling flange off. Found one thread showing its reverse threaded. Can anyone verify this? Using a 3 ft pipe wrench and it wont budge. Propane torch heat it at this point or take it to someone? Also are there a big difference between OEM crank gaskets and aftermarket then?

  8. #8
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Some people reuse a head gasket but usually only once. The PTO coupler can be a REAL pain. Definitely try heating it up and get a big cheater bar on the end of that pipe wrench. I don't remember mine being reverse threads.
    I've heard of many aftermarket crank seal failures and lots of OEM recommendations.

  9. #9
    Every adventure comes to an end........ Not Today! wreckingball's Avatar
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    I had this issue with my 1300 when I first built the motor.... If one of the alignment pins from the crankshaft bearings are off by a little, it'll keep the cases from sealing just enough that you can't see it, but the leak down test shows pretty quick!

  10. #10
    GoFastGuru's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
    I had this issue with my 1300 when I first built the motor.... If one of the alignment pins from the crankshaft bearings are off by a little, it'll keep the cases from sealing just enough that you can't see it, but the leak down test shows pretty quick!
    thats right make sure pins are in and case seals all the way down before starting any bolts

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