Thread: 4-Tech Fuel Pump Replace.
08-28-2011, 09:50 PM #1
4-Tech Fuel Pump Replace.
This is the order of how to change a fuel pump. Generally the process takes around 30 minutes to complete. The following steps are for an RXP and RXT's along with RXP-X's. The fuel assembly is the same through 2007. As previously stated I have NOT seen the 2011's as I feel they are different as they screw into the tank and are a little different assembly wise comparable to the 08's. There may be additional steps to expose the following pieces. These are for an RXP 2007 and earlier and RXT's for 2007 and earlier.
Note:*** When using the rrfpr with the 08+ pump setup you will need to remove the factory regulator anyway which is that sliver parts on the black fuel canister above the pump. Just take the factory hose of of the fitting and install it right on the new pump, use a hose clamp to keep it on. Block the other port on the top of the sending unit. ****
You need to start by removing the seat. Then you need to remove the large plastic inlet tube from the OEM intake. It is a 10mm bolt. Remove the surrounding gasket and pull out through the front storage hole. You then need to remove the glove box under the steering column by pulling laterally (out) on the plastic trim pieces. Reach into the large hole and depress the 3 clips that lock the glove box into place. It should pop out and set it aside.
Start by reaching in and removing the wiring harness from the top of the fuel pump assembly.
Then remove the fuel supply line from the OEM regulator.
Then remove the vent hose on the top of the fuel assembly
Remove the ten (10) 8mm bolts and washers from the top of the fuel pump assembly that hold it to the tank.
Once the bolts are removed and set aside, pull STRAIGHT up on the fuel assembly and tilt towards the rear of the ski to allow the fuel inside the aluminum reservoir to drain from the bottom. It should take 30 seconds to 1 minute or so. Tilt the assembly back and towards the side to remove it. Be careful, the purpose of this maneuver is to not rip the fuel level float hand off of the assembly. Gas WILL drip out of the OEM regulator and the residual from the tank. Leave the gasket on the tank
Set the assembly aside on a table and we will begin the replacement.
First you need to disconnect the fuel float valve connections.
Then depress the three (3) prongs and lift the assembly out. It is spring loaded so BE CAREFUL.
Keep in mind the way it came out, it must go back in the same way. Mark one of the prongs with a marker that is NOT black so you can assemble it the correct way.
Detach the fuel pump connection from the pump.
Remove the filter from the bottom of the OEM pump and place it onto the Walbro. It only goes one way so pay attention.
Once the filter is installed back onto the Walbro, Go in reverse order and reassemble the assembly. You can PM me if you have any further questions. Also, let me know if this does NOT make any sense. Thanks for looking.
Last edited by MSRXP; 09-03-2011 at 11:11 PM.
08-29-2011, 11:30 PM #2
nice write up i would think that the fuel pump assembly should be the same on the 2011's, but i can let you know for sure when i swap mine...
08-30-2011, 08:49 PM #3
09-30-2011, 09:28 AM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Sparrows Point, MD (near the Key Bridge)
Just a FYI the parts numbers for the strainers are:
FS220 and FS242 made by Airtex/Master
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