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  1. #1

    94 sl 750 drive coupler removal

    Anyone know how to remove the drive coupler that the drive shaft goes into, WITHOUT doing the rope trick? I had an improperly aligned motor and chewed up the coupler and drive shaft, I have spares but I donít want to take the motor out or take the exhaust manifold off to change it. Any ideas???


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    Tony's Avatar
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    Whats wrong with using rope?

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    You could pull the head, put a block of wood in the cylinder and put the head back on.......

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    You could pull the head, put a block of wood in the cylinder and put the head back on.......
    Actually, just flip the head over and throw in a couple bolt to hold it down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slipknotanfitch9 View Post
    Anyone know how to remove the drive coupler that the drive shaft goes into, WITHOUT doing the rope trick? I had an improperly aligned motor and chewed up the coupler and drive shaft, I have spares but I don’t want to take the motor out or take the exhaust manifold off to change it. Any ideas???
    The rope trick doesn't require the removal of anything. Simply bring the PTO cylinder to TDC, then rotate the coupler clockwise until the piston drops about 1". Feed some 1/4" cotton rope into the spark plug hole and turn the coupler counter clockwise until you feel resistance. Now you can put a wrench on the coupler and remove it. The engine doesn't need removed and you don't have to take off heads or exhaust parts.

    KJ

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    All three of these methods are basically stopping the piston from moving while applying pressure to the crank - similar to a "hydrolock" condition..... why will this not screw up indexing / cause crank misalignment??? just wondering the difference......?

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    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    You use the cylinder closest to what you you are removing/installing. That applies all the force on that cylinder.

    Now if you put the rope in the CEN or MAG cyls and try to remove the engine coupler, you COULD throw the crank out of phase because you are now trying to spin the PTO piston while stopping the CEN or MAG piston.


    Same goes for magneto removal. You must use the MAG cyl when using the rope trick or any of the above ideas for the same reason.


    Hope you can understand what I'm getting at.

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    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    After going back and reading the thread again, I see that johnsonmtz mentions using the PTO cylinder/piston for coupler removal. Easy to overlook that and simply grab any location...... Good to know - thanks for the explanation!

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    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    You use the cylinder closest to what you you are removing/installing.
    Yep, Xlint89 pinpointed the jist of my explanation. By using the PTO for coupler work and the MAG for flywheel work, you are transmitting force directly to parts that will not twist.

    If you were to 'lock' the MAG and then work on the coupler, you're placing twisting forces on parts that are only press fit together. The sections on the cranks have no splines or teeth to physically lock them in place, only static pressure of the mating surfaces. If you wrench on the coupler with any cylinder other than the PTO locked, you run the risk of causing those pressed fittings to slip, throwing the crank out of phase.

    KJ

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    How to tell if I have twisted my crank?

    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonmtz View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    You use the cylinder closest to what you you are removing/installing.
    Yep, Xlint89 pinpointed the jist of my explanation. By using the PTO for coupler work and the MAG for flywheel work, you are transmitting force directly to parts that will not twist.

    If you were to 'lock' the MAG and then work on the coupler, you're placing twisting forces on parts that are only press fit together. The sections on the cranks have no splines or teeth to physically lock them in place, only static pressure of the mating surfaces. If you wrench on the coupler with any cylinder other than the PTO locked, you run the risk of causing those pressed fittings to slip, throwing the crank out of phase.

    KJ
    I could not get a wrench on the coupler and used the rope on the mag cylinder prior to reading this post. I still have not got it off but would like to determine if I need to tear down the engine. If so I will remove the engine if not I will build a wrench to allow proper use of the PTO cylinder. Any help would be appreciated.

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