Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 40
  1. #1
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28

    Electric Trim and Pump Wedge

    So now that my 99 SLH is up and running, I notice that it needs to be trimmed almost all the way down for top speed.

    Would it not make more sense for the top speed position to be near the top of the trim range? It seems that any position above this would be a waste. Yet being able to trim down more would help with stability.

    I believe based on the markings on the trim gauge that the trim has a maximum range of 10*. I also believe my ski has a 5* wedge.

    I was thinking I would like to find a 2 or 3* wedge and flip it upside down, which would put my max speed position near the top of the trim range. Looking to see if anyone else has changed their wedge on an SLH?


  2. #2
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,330
    +1
    31
    What kind of water are you riding on, smooth or rough?

    Try a 4* (stock) wedge and see what you get.

  3. #3
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28
    Mostly light chop. Depends on the day. As much as I want top speed, the ski is unusable some days when the bay is busy.

    I figured if the markings on the MFD are in-fact approximate degree markings, then I know I need to lower the trim at least 3-4* to put max speed in the middle of the trimmable range (if that makes sense). So by that train of thought, I figured a 2* would be great. Put me in the middle of the range installed correctly and near the top if flipped upside down.

    BTW: I believe my wedge is stock, whatever it may be. Quick look using a framing triangle was about 5*, could be 4*.

  4. #4
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Random Lake WI
    Posts
    884
    +1
    54
    I have driven many Polaris SL's over the years, being around 200lb then, I could never put the trim more than 1 mark above center for top speed, with the exception of my 93 which had no pump wedge, I don't understand why Polaris put a wedge on a machine with trim in the first place, you dont' need both. a smaller wedge would be better for you, cause right now even in the middle position your pump is trimmed up a bit with the wedge. No wedge would be best, but that change affect the position of the trim rod, you will have to be "trimmed up" on the gauge a little, your steering will have to be adjusted slightly because you are moving the nozzle in a bit & be very careful if you try with no wedge to make sure the water supply outlet going to the tube connected to the hull has enough clearance or when you tighten the pump bolts you can crack the nozzle!

  5. #5
    PolarisNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Lower Michigan
    Posts
    1,809
    A wedge is much more effective in "trimming" the bow than the trim. The trim has to bend the exiting stream of water, where a wedge does not. It is only meant for small corrections.

    To the OP, are you sure you have your trim adjusted correctly? When the gauge reads 0, is the nozzle perfectly straight? My 2 seaters wouldn't ever take much trim at top speed, but they were always over 0 in smooth water, even with a 6* wedge...

  6. #6
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    16,708
    +1
    1,324
    I agree with Polaris Nut. Make sure the trim nozzle is centered when the gauge reads zero. I can ride my SL's with the trim up quite easily, however the smoothest riding on rougher water is with the trim down. If you want better rough water riding, get an Ocean Pro ride plate.

  7. #7
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28
    It sits just below center when the guage is centered. The trim guage is in sync with the trim motor. My buddies 00 SLH is reacts almost identicle to mine. On his, you need to be trimmed 3/4 down to achieve max speed and mine is 7/8-3/4 down. I would love to remove the existing wedge, but would infact, as mentioned, require a shorter water tube.

    My Tigershark operates as you would expect, trim up is max speed, trim down is stability in chop. just supprised polaris put a wedge on somthing that had no use for it.

  8. #8
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28
    Ignore

  9. #9
    PolarisNut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Lower Michigan
    Posts
    1,809
    Quote Originally Posted by ghostinstallations View Post
    It sits just below center when the guage is centered. The trim guage is in sync with the trim motor. My buddies 00 SLH is reacts almost identicle to mine. On his, you need to be trimmed 3/4 down to achieve max speed and mine is 7/8-3/4 down. I would love to remove the existing wedge, but would infact, as mentioned, require a shorter water tube.
    That isn't normal. I've ridden my fair share of SLX's and they didn't ride like that (in smooth water). My triple pipe SL1050 ran its best numbers with a 6* wedge and trim up a couple clicks(in smooth water), as did all other SL/SLXs I've ridden. I did have one that had the front of the ride plate coming loose, and it would bounce like crazy though. You may want to go over the back half of your hull setup. Is yours bouncing when you trim it up, or is it just going slower?

    If you want a smaller wedge, there were a few 2* ones in the classifieds a while back. Not sure if they were ever sold.

  10. #10
    I'm addicted to Polaris PWC ghostinstallations's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    920
    +1
    28
    Ive checked the rear end. All tight, stock grate and rideplate. It just goes slower. What confuses me is that my buddies does the same thing (1 year newer). Im going to try to grab a 2* from Jeff tonight and see what happens. At least its an easy swap and not a ton of money invested.

    Considering the MFD read 60 MPH trimmed down on a 700, I would assume that I was infact trimmed correctly with no major problems.

    Thanks for the responses!

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. WTB A/M Waterbox and Pump wedge
    By TBone14 in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-09-2011, 04:42 PM
  2. GTI impeller and pump wedge question
    By wmcreyno in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-01-2011, 11:12 PM
  3. FS RXP thru hull exhaust pipe and pump wedge
    By 8 is enough in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-06-2011, 02:27 PM
  4. pump extension and pump wedge?
    By Chris0060 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-16-2009, 08:48 PM
  5. WTB: Green wheel or same type wheel, and Pump Wedge
    By JonnyRXT in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-31-2008, 11:29 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •