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  1. #1

    Polaris super dooper fn permaite locktite , satan brand.

    Pulled a first time apart 750 flywheel. Holy snikeys , it laughed at hi temp heat gun, tons of pressure, hours of tapping, oiling, heating , striking end of puller ect.... . Had to use mapp gas torch way more than I liked. I think I was imagining bendix not disengaging on the sweet $250 complete motor only less ex manifold. Ride Test tommarow, would of had time today but ....


  2. #2
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    I find it's easier to pull by slowly tightening the 3 small screws than just the big one in middle. I guess the "rocking" movement helps breaking loose the flywheel.

  3. #3
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    For me, the key is making sure you are pulling on the FW "squarely". Meaning exactly the same amount of pressure on all 3 the bolts.

    Crank the puller down real tight, then give the puller bolt a smack with the hammer, or add your heat. Usually doesn't take long to release it.

    CAUTION: too much heat can ruin the crank seal, so don't over do it.....

  4. #4
    I like Boobs. wetwolf's Avatar
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    It's the puller that makes the difference, I use one of these.
    http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Master_Puller.htm

    It's the Lord God King of flywheel pullers.

  5. #5
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    I use the cheap puller from Harbor Freight. I use some heat from my MAPP gas torch right on the crank where it meets the flywheer. Tighten the puller bolt, whack with a 2 LB dead blow and repeat until it comes off.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by BryanP View Post
    I use the cheap puller from Harbor Freight. I use some heat from my MAPP gas torch right on the crank where it meets the flywheer. Tighten the puller bolt, whack with a 2 LB dead blow and repeat until it comes off.

    It's actually better to start heating around the outside of the flywheel and then work your way in...it gives the inner metal somewhere to expand to. Once you get the whole think warm, then focus heat on around the crank...but not on the crank. You want to flywheel to expand, not the crank!

  7. #7
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    I heat the flywheel around the crank not the crank itself. The heat helps break the bond of the Loctite.

  8. #8
    I've found, at least on the domestics, that it's not the locktite holding them. In fact, some of the worse ones I've had did not have any locktite at all. Just friction and a little corrosion.

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