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  1. #1

    Help Wanted - For The Love Of God - GTX

    Ok for the love of God can someone help me with my sea doo problems.

    97GTX - Has a new/used 800 engine

    It starts up great, runs fine for 5 minutes, then it idles ruff and i cant get it above 4k rpms. Ill be at a dead stop and mash the throttle only to peak at 4k rpms and not get out of the water, i blip the throttle 10-20 times and eventually it"ll spike to redline and pull hard...once i go back to a dead stop it idles rough and again i cant get it above 4k rpms.

    This thing was at a shop here in st.louis and they said it ran great...took it 4 hours away to a lake and it ran like crap after 10 minutes of seat time. Took it to a shop in springfield. They replaced the needle and seat, water pump seal, verified the connections are all good, verified voltage, verified the carbs are ok and the sea doo still has the issue.

    Now im going to drive 4 hours to pick it up and bring it back here to st.louis. Im at my wit's end with this thing.

    Originally it ran great, then the oem motor let out 2 years ago, we had a shop installed a sbt engine which lasted 1 year although we had about 5-6 trips back to the shop because even though it was a fresh motor it never ran properly...then it dropped a valve right after the warantty was up and the shop that did the install went out of business. Keep in mind that shop also charged me $300 to replace the old grey fuel lines with new grey fuel lines...

    We bought a used 800 engine and me/brother swapped it in ourselves and then had a local shop verify are work and take it out on the river...he claimed it ran great...

    So here's where im at...ive got a new/used engine in it, new needle and seat, new fuel lines for the entire ski "not grey" and a huge headache because it still dosnt run right.

    Any suggestions other than to part it out and cut my losses? I just wanted to have a reliable ski for another 2 years. These cant be this hard to work on that 2 shops within 2 months cant figure it out or actually do the work claimed to have been done.

    Im located in st.louis missouri and visit table rock lake ofton. If any-1 know's of a shop that know's what they are doing and take pride in there work please dont hesitate to let me know.

    Thank you, please ask any/all questions, id be more than happy to help you help me!


  2. #2
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    1. have you done a compression test on the "new motor"?
    2. did the shop mess with the carb adjustments set screws? if you dont know I would look at the top of the 2 stroke performance section and find the correct settings for the carbs.
    3. I would check pop off on the carbs
    4. could have a bad rectifier.
    5. I would check the screens in the carbs. they may not have been cleaned when the lines were changed.
    6. have the RAVE valves been pulled and cleaned?

    this is a good start. verify this and we can move on to the next ones....

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    1. have you done a compression test on the "new motor"?
    2. did the shop mess with the carb adjustments set screws? if you dont know I would look at the top of the 2 stroke performance section and find the correct settings for the carbs.
    3. I would check pop off on the carbs
    4. could have a bad rectifier.
    5. I would check the screens in the carbs. they may not have been cleaned when the lines were changed.
    6. have the RAVE valves been pulled and cleaned?

    this is a good start. verify this and we can move on to the next ones....
    First, thank you for the help

    1) no i have not but a reputable shop "purr performance" that was reccomended to me by many members of this site sold me the engine and stated it had 150psi in both cylinder's

    2) the shop said they verified the carb screw adjustments and the timing

    3) shop says they checked the carbs and replaced the "needle & seat"

    4) whats a rectifier?

    5) shop reports the carbs look good and states they tore them down for inspection and only replaced the needle & seat

    6) no the rave valves have not been checked, are these easy to remove and check?

    I can call the shop tomorrow and ask them to check these for me. Unfortunately my ski is about 3.5 hours away from me at the moment and the shop basically gave up on working on it as they are out of idea's as to what the problem is...meanwhile i didnt want them simply replacing part by part and charging me to do so only to find out the next thing they replaced didn't correct the issue but im charged for it...at that rate id be bankrupt lol

    Ill have them check the valves and see how they look. The ski does start up perfectly fine and idles great for a few minutes, then it acts like its mis-firing and idles rough. You can tell the tone of the engine has changed when this occurs and at the point the ski acts like a dog in water. It wont get past the 4k rpm range without blipping the throttle constantly.

    Thank you for your help, its greatly appreciated.

    O also, what are your thoughts on running an oil pump? The new engine did not have an oil pump so im running pre-mix. All the shops ive delt with told me not to use an oil pump and just run pre-mix. How-ever it seems that can get rather expensive considering the ratio of oil to gas. Its only a summer toy and wont be driven as much sense my brother bought a nice boat how-ever id still love to get this thing up and running like it was and be able to enjoy it while im down there on vacation from time to time. I found a oil pump locally that is said to be in great condition and he is only wanting $20. But wanted to hear from others as to why pre-mix is better/safer?

    Thank you!

  4. #4
    I believe your engine has an oil bath on the rotary valve drive. Do you have oil in the tank and the big line from the bottom of the oil tank to the side of the engine case?

  5. #5
    WOT 88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by digital sol View Post
    First, thank you for the help

    1) no i have not but a reputable shop "purr performance" that was reccomended to me by many members of this site sold me the engine and stated it had 150psi in both cylinder's

    2) the shop said they verified the carb screw adjustments and the timing

    3) shop says they checked the carbs and replaced the "needle & seat"

    4) whats a rectifier?

    5) shop reports the carbs look good and states they tore them down for inspection and only replaced the needle & seat

    6) no the rave valves have not been checked, are these easy to remove and check?

    I can call the shop tomorrow and ask them to check these for me. Unfortunately my ski is about 3.5 hours away from me at the moment and the shop basically gave up on working on it as they are out of idea's as to what the problem is...meanwhile i didnt want them simply replacing part by part and charging me to do so only to find out the next thing they replaced didn't correct the issue but im charged for it...at that rate id be bankrupt lol

    Ill have them check the valves and see how they look. The ski does start up perfectly fine and idles great for a few minutes, then it acts like its mis-firing and idles rough. You can tell the tone of the engine has changed when this occurs and at the point the ski acts like a dog in water. It wont get past the 4k rpm range without blipping the throttle constantly.

    Thank you for your help, its greatly appreciated.

    O also, what are your thoughts on running an oil pump? The new engine did not have an oil pump so im running pre-mix. All the shops ive delt with told me not to use an oil pump and just run pre-mix. How-ever it seems that can get rather expensive considering the ratio of oil to gas. Its only a summer toy and wont be driven as much sense my brother bought a nice boat how-ever id still love to get this thing up and running like it was and be able to enjoy it while im down there on vacation from time to time. I found a oil pump locally that is said to be in great condition and he is only wanting $20. But wanted to hear from others as to why pre-mix is better/safer?

    Thank you!
    Pre-mix isn't neccesarily ''better''. 9 out 10 times, failures come from the oil lines going from the pump to the rotary cover. The lines become brittle and break. Rarely do the pumps themselves actually fail. Alot of that hype comes from a well known major re-manufacturer, and the fact that they have a ''fault free'' warranty on all thier re-man motors. So essentially they pay for Joe Blows motor that bombs, because he never changed the original lines. Thus (my assumption) telling customers just to pre-mix.

    Personally I have a ski with the oil injection removed, smokes a bit more at idle, but I didn't feel like messing with the oil pump after I rebuilt the engine.

    You'll find alot of debate about this subject, and it realistically comes down to preference.

    A rectifier converts AC current (obtained from the flywheel/magneto combo) to DC current. Ebay is your friend on that item. If your handy with and have a multi meter you can do some diagnosing on your own. Check www.seadoomanuals.net to down load a free shop manaul for your ski.



    Quote Originally Posted by Comp View Post
    I believe your engine has an oil bath on the rotary valve drive. Do you have oil in the tank and the big line from the bottom of the oil tank to the side of the engine case?
    Correct, you will have to leave the oil tank installed and kept full of oil to lubricate the RV shaft.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by WOT 88 View Post
    Pre-mix isn't neccesarily ''better''. 9 out 10 times, failures come from the oil lines going from the pump to the rotary cover. The lines become brittle and break. Rarely do the pumps themselves actually fail. Alot of that hype comes from a well known major re-manufacturer, and the fact that they have a ''fault free'' warranty on all thier re-man motors. So essentially they pay for Joe Blows motor that bombs, because he never changed the original lines. Thus (my assumption) telling customers just to pre-mix.

    Personally I have a ski with the oil injection removed, smokes a bit more at idle, but I didn't feel like messing with the oil pump after I rebuilt the engine.

    You'll find alot of debate about this subject, and it realistically comes down to preference.

    A rectifier converts AC current (obtained from the flywheel/magneto combo) to DC current. Ebay is your friend on that item. If your handy with and have a multi meter you can do some diagnosing on your own. Check www.seadoomanuals.net to down load a free shop manaul for your ski.





    Correct, you will have to leave the oil tank installed and kept full of oil to lubricate the RV shaft.
    Thank you, the shop did mention today they went over the electrical system and did see correct voltage in all area's they checked. They did not specify exactly where they had checked.

    Yes the oil reservoir is still filled and installed. How-ever sense im not running the pump atm the plug on top of the oil reservoir dosnt have a line attached to it and i get an oil low light. I presume this is simply because im not running an oil pump atm. The resevoir dosnt have oil inside and has a line running to the engine. The shop here in stl went over the lines and verified they are correct. "Well they claimed...time will tell what the real cause is"

  7. #7
    WOT 88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by digital sol View Post
    Thank you, the shop did mention today they went over the electrical system and did see correct voltage in all area's they checked. They did not specify exactly where they had checked.

    Yes the oil reservoir is still filled and installed. How-ever sense im not running the pump atm the plug on top of the oil reservoir dosnt have a line attached to it and i get an oil low light. I presume this is simply because im not running an oil pump atm. The resevoir dosnt have oil inside and has a line running to the engine. The shop here in stl went over the lines and verified they are correct. "Well they claimed...time will tell what the real cause is"
    Some times electrical componants can fail intermittely.

    Have you noticed the oil being burned off in the resevior even though your running pre-mix? Maybe the crank seals are leaking and your burning access oil. Could cause the motor to load up. Any plug fouling or rich looking plugs?

    Have you looked to see if you have any water in the fuel tank? Maybe a dumb question, but never know.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by WOT 88 View Post
    Some times electrical componants can fail intermittely.

    Have you noticed the oil being burned off in the resevior even though your running pre-mix? Maybe the crank seals are leaking and your burning access oil. Could cause the motor to load up. Any plug fouling or rich looking plugs?

    Have you looked to see if you have any water in the fuel tank? Maybe a dumb question, but never know.
    Actually i did notice the first time i took it out after the oil was noticeably lower in the reservoir but didn't think much of it as I'm not longer using the oil pump.

    The plugs were "ok", im familiar with how the plugs should look for a car/engine...same goes for boats? If so id say they are darker than normal but not terrible..figured they'd be darker because of the premix "oil+gas".

    We siphoned the fuel tank before swapping the engine and put fresh 93 in it. The shop also said they drained the tank and put 5 gallons of fresh gas inside just to be sure.

    I will ask them about the oil level after driving and rave valves tomorrow when i call. Is there an easy way for them to check and see if the crank seals are leaking..or would most of the engine required to be disassembled to check this? Thank you very much for your help!

    O also wanted to point out encase this helps you to help diagnose that after i drove it for 15 minutes and it began to run like crap. It would not get past 4k rpms how-ever after i dog legged it back to the boat dock and put it on the lift it free-revved to nearly 7k rpms without issues. Didnt choke or anything and didnt have to blip the throttle to do so. "I don't make a habbit of doing that out of water but i wanted to test/try it to possibly help trouble shoot. So it rev'd freely to the rev limiter out of water but in water after a 5-10 minute drive would not do so without struggling.

  9. #9
    Ok The shop said they checked the rave valves and cleaned them but they were not gunked up or anything out of the norm. They also reported they did a compression test and got 115 and 113.

    They also mentioned they found some issues with the coil pack and made some adjustments and were going to get it on the water to see if it made any improvements/changes.

  10. #10

    Red face digital sol

    Hello ive been having same problem please keep up the post if the coil pack fixes the problem

    thank you

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