09-18-2011, 05:28 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
95 slt750 how often should you rebuild the carbs?
The previous owner said they were redone about two three years ago but the last time i had it out it burnt a whole in my front piston it had the orginal fuel pump when this happend going to a 3 outlet with self mix gas iney other things i should do besides new fuel lines thanks
09-18-2011, 05:37 PM #2
The reason for the hole in the front cylinder was because of the original fuel pump, they wear out and run lean causing the hole to be burned. you dont need to do premix if you dont want to, the oil pumps are reliable. replace ALL the fuel lines including those in the tank, also replace or rebuild the fuel selector. and while youre at it rebuild the carbs, John Zigler has all the parts youd need
09-18-2011, 08:22 PM #3
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Cleveland OH
Never trust the previous owner.
I'd do ALL of the fuel system upgrades to prevent this from happening again.
09-18-2011, 10:01 PM #4
09-19-2011, 08:38 AM #5
This will keep you busy for a while..
Check the gas cap on the fuel tank for cracks,theres an update for that. Then check the seal on the outside gas cap. check all clamps up there for tightness and rubber condition.
Then pull the 2 tubes out of the gas tank and replace those 2. they will be nasty brown looking I bet. There are weighted screens on them too. if there not on, they probably are on the bottom of the tank. put those on the new lines.. make sure you cut the correct length of hose for the 2 lines, the longer one is your reserve. dont mix them up or else you wont have a reserve when you switch over to it.
Now that thats done up front, check your fuel seperator cap for cracks, its black and cracks easily. then check the fuel selector o-ring. replace if bad. empty that fuel seperator and replace with fresh 2-stroke/oil mix with gas! That way you wont run pure gas thru it when starting it.
OH! Straighten out the "curled" fuel line if its at the end of the roll when installing the tank lines!! That could cause all sorts of problems later on.
you will need 3 carb kits by mukini only.139.00 for 3 of them,,approx anyway....then you will need 21 feet of fuel line.coast guard black or the colored type. your choice.about 1.00/ft.
you can use the old clamps or buy oiteker, stainless or zip ties.. up to you. I go with zip ties. they work fine. never had a problem.
The oil lines can crack and leak, they are 3mm ID and 7mm OD on the line. they are special wall thickness. Your "pulse line" will be your 12 inch or less in length connection between your pulse fitting on the bottom side of your engine to the your new triple outlet pump.
Mount the pump in the original location or mount low in the hull on a bulkhead ABOVE the pulse line fitting on the motor. that keeps any chance of liquid in the cases being drawn up into the carb diaphrams. they dont work when theres liquid on the pulse side of the diaphram where the air pushes,
I mounted mine on the engine in the original place, works fine,, some swear by mounting low in the hull for vibration protection.up to you.
Use Beerdarts routing diagram on here. You will need 2 caps for the fittings on the carbs when using his diagram. Ask for help if needed..
When the carbs are coming off, remember to undo the oil pump rod. it has a tricky lil nylon piece that clips onto the rod. be careful, its fragile.
and remember the orientation of the rod. it can go in 4 different ways.. its a pita if you dont remember which way it goes. mark with arrows and tape. which way and which direction. it clips back on.
when doing this rerouting of everything,,, a thing called an auto cock is in the system. ditch that in the trash. leave it out..it looks like a small fuel pump kinda..
when taking off the lines, theres a restrictor in the return line going back to the tank. its used to build fuel pressure. it must be reused when put back together. it can be found just off the end of the fuel rail with a black zip tie around it if noone has messed with it. cut it out of there and put in the line line.. warm the line up to get it in there, use soap and water to lube the line to get it to go in..
Only do 1 line at a time. makes it way easier to remember what goes where..
Replace the oil filter, empty the oil tank and clean it,, same for gas tank if so inclined! might as well..replace both fuel filters and put back in the right direction. look at the arrows on the old filters. that will tell you what direction for each one.
when pulling the carbs, undo the carbs nuts, not the manifold nuts! just the carbs come off,be gentle when pulling the carbs off trying to save the gaskets if possible.. use grease to seal them back on. no sealant. Undo the throttle cable and choke cables before you pull them off.
check to make sure your throttle opens up fully when done and your choke works properly again. set your idle to 1250-1350, You adjust the idle on the end of the throttle arm and it has a spring and a small tee on it. simple enough, screw in to turn the idle up.
Write down your jet numbers, the mains and the smaller pilot jets.. they are located underneath a thing called a jet block with 2 screws. use 2 different screwdrivers when removing the jets, they are different sizes. be careful not to mar them with the screwdriver. the pilot jets are marked on the sides and the mains are on the tops If I remember correctly..lol Make sure you can see thru them.
Pull of the blue caps on the high speed adjusters and check the needles for wear or grooves in them.. use carb cleaner to clean out any passages. write down the numbers of your jets on the hood inside with marker. then you will know what you have in them for future tuning or mods.
when installing the adjuster screws, just lightly seat them. dont mash them in hard. there are o-rings in there also. change if bad,
Your going to need a small 12mm stubby wrench to get the carb nuts off. they are a pain...
Some guys use a nylon reinforced "pulse line" 12 inches or less for protection against it getting warm and collapsing. up to you..
Unscrew the low speed adjusters and check them too. same as high speed. those blue caps on the high speeds are for a 1/4 turn tuning only. Leave them off at first when using the original specs to dial the carb settings. the new fuel pump doesnt change that.
youll need about 225.00 for all of it.. 139.00 carb kits,21,00 fuel linje,14.00 fuel filters,5,00 oil filter,clamps,10.00. 2 caps.3-00. triple outlet fuel pump 30.00.
Then your free labor..lol If you need help ask..were here to help ya out. Good luck.. If your skinny enough, you can pull the tank and slid right in there! I did. Iv'e done 4 of these already. Good Luck! Takes about 2 hours. But it will keep your ski running great.
The piston deal is a whole other post..lol Hopefully this will cure your problem.
You could have a air leak too that caused the lean condition. take a look at the front and rear seals on the crank. look for any evidence of oil or anything that looks out of place.
This fuel upgrade is a must do to this ski.
Is the piston cracked? or just a hole or??
You will need new water rail gaskets, and exhaust manifold gaskets if there destroyed when taking it apart. if the head is messed up, you will need 1 of those too. if the jug is scarred bad, it will have to be honed or bored. just depends on condition of everything when its apart.
you dont have to remove the big pipe in there when taking off the exhaust manifold. just slide it back n forth to get at the manifold nuts. youll need to take off the 3 mounts that hold it down, 4 bolts up top and the 2 mounts forward and aft. I take the muffler hose right out.
if you plan on going premix, you need a plug for the oil hole and a block off plate.. about 30.00 for all.
Take pics or video of what your doing. it helps when going back together.. leave extra length on the fuel lines until you have it the way you like it, then trim to fit. Keep them short as possible with no binding or kinking or sliding against stuff. tie wrap them to keep them together and neat Then enjoy your new ride!
09-19-2011, 09:07 AM #6
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
FiRst off let me thank you for your time an helpfull information i currently have the motor outta the ski going with all new gaskets one new front piston a new fuel selector from a (sea doo) a new 3 outlet pump and all three carb kits from johns ski shop all new fuel lines an i orderd the block off plate for the oil mixer were do i get the cap your talken about from and iam ganna need sum help with the carb settings lol but that be last ganna get motor together first my next step is checken all the fuel tank stuff you said and removing the auto cock if i run premix do i remove the oil pump etc????
09-20-2011, 07:09 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Milwaukee WI
NO need to eliminate the oil injection. As long as all the lines are good and clamped securely there will be no problem with the oil injection.
09-22-2011, 12:57 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
Bravo on the update notes should be moved to fuel update sticky
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