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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Need driveshaft removal advise

    95 SLT750

    I removed the jet pump (thanks to K447's video). The driveshaft did not come out with the pump. I am unable to remove it. I loosened the thru the hull assy so it moves freely on the driveshaft. The shaft will not disengage from the engine coupling. It does not appear to be frozen in the coupling. I can move the driveshaft up and down slightly and can see the shaft move within the engine coupling. Advice for removal will be appreciated.

    Thanks


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Pull harder. I was leery at first too.....

  3. #3
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
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    Yep, it just needs a good solid yank.

  4. #4
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Watch out whats behind you as it lets go!

  5. #5
    Banned User
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowsniper View Post
    Watch out whats behind you as it lets go!
    Yes definitely........or you will end up on your back.......

  6. #6

    Join Date
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    Thanks for all the advice. Yes I made sure that my back was protected. I do not have the driveshaft out yet. At least I can now see the splines. (see attached photo). It looks like the shaft is hung up in the drive coupler seal. Is this seal pressed in or screw in? I don't understand what could cause this other than maybe the rubber bumper some how. Back to the garage later this evening to continue. I'll let you know what I find. Oh, the splines look good. In the picture the grease distorts them.



    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    Slide Hammer.

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    The seal is a press fit.

    Use a rag to get a good grip in the DS.

    Brace your forearms against the back of the hull while gripping the DS.

    Pull that puppy out of there......

    It's all about leverage.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    SUCCESS!!! Got up this morning went to the garage, gave the DS a twist and pull and it slid right out.
    Guess I didn't eat my Wheaties yesterday. lol. Thanks "upallnight" for the Slide Hammer suggestion. Glad I didn't need it. The DS looks good, shows no damage although the fromt bumper was all chewed up Had to dig the remains out of the coupler. Since I have the pump out, I'm going to replace the bearings and seals. The Impeller looks brand new. Not a scratch or nick on it. Also going to change the seals and bushings in the thru the hull assy. I'm sure I'll have questions down the road with this project. Thanks again for the help guys. Love this Forum!!!!!!

  10. #10
    bowsniper's Avatar
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    Now if you could get the driveshaft checked for being warped, that would be a good idea while its out.. just need some v-blocks and a dial indicator. I had 2 of mine checked. they were .002" and .003" off. Not too bad.

    You can also change the "needle" fitting on the thru hull to a zerk fitting.. Just make sure you keep the shroud guard on after while running.. that fitting sticks out a lil bit.. clean out that rubber hose that attaches to the coupler on the inside too. debris likes to accumulate in there.

    also take a peek at the pitot tube below everything and check to see the hose is on and the fitting isnt loose.. Good way to have a leak and not know.

    Put your new pump bearings in the freezer for 45 mins and heat the stator with ALL THE RUBBER SEALS OUT OF IT!! at 200 degrees for an hour and the bearings will fall right in! then seat it quickly and flip it over and PUT YOUR SPACER in FIRST BEFORE you drop the other bearing in, then pull that other bearing out of the freezer and drop that in, Done! then seals and the big o-ring, prop spacer and your done.

    Don't leave the "other" bearing out on the table waiting, keep it in the freezer, you only have about 8 seconds for it to work before it expands. You'll be amazed how easy it goes right in.. Then find a socket big enough to cover the bearing and a small round piece of wood that would go on top of the bearing as your seating it.

    Good Luck!

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