Thread: Coolant going into #3 STILL!
09-24-2011, 10:26 AM #1
Coolant going into #3 STILL!
Ok, the ski is an 07 rxt with green wheel, fizzle i/c, 15/20, catch can, kanaflex, etc. This ski was put together with the 1st batch of greenwheels (it's been THAT long), and has run very well for it's owner logging over 650hrs riding much of the time with me. At 360 hrs, the pump bearing went out and the ski was ridden back some 20 miles to the ramp (I was not on that ride) and sure enough it took out the thrust bearing in the motor. The dealer steps up and replaced the short block thru BEST warranty. I do not know if the head was machined at that time or not.......but, the machine ran perfect after that for almost 2 years......
Fast forward to 2 weeks ago......he was riding back to launch and got a engine temp warning, he says he shut it off about 100 yds from the ramp.....then started and idled to the ramp cause it was hot (i would have opted for a short burst and shut-off). After cooling and re-filling the coolant bottle, #3 gets wet and sometimes will be hydrolocked when u hit the starter. OK, head gasket time.....right? NOT!
The head was cut .004 and finished fine and true, the block cleaned-up pretty damn good but JPSKI (owner) did not want to pull the motor for block machining so the results were from careful work with fresh razor blades (not a hack job). After the job was done using new stretch bolts for the head (he did not want the expense or bother of studs, I got 2 sets here), I ran over each head bolt with the torque wrench (AFTER the 120-90deg sequence) and clicked everytime at 85ft-lbs. All but 1 clicked at 90ftlbs, sound good right? I thought so, but it does the same damn thing....Yesterdays' ride saw coolant in the exhaust and when the plugs are out coolant going into #3 again.
My next step is to remove intake and exh manifolds, remove the valvesprings from #3, hit the coolant bottle with 15# pressure and scope the cyl and ports in the head for the leakage. It's not the head gasket.....did I mention I did the head gasket TWICE?
I already told him it might not be pretty, and after throwing $450 in parts and 6 hours work at it already, I don't think he is gonna be prepared to buy a head (preferable solution) or sleeve the block.
I am looking for anyone who has seen or heard of this or maybe feels that I am overlooking another possible cause for this. Also, JP is learning as we go, so he may come away with a better understanding of whats going on thru this thread and the thoughts of 4-tec gurus everywhere
If I can't solve his problem this week, he might have to ride a slow ski for MB.......
09-24-2011, 12:28 PM #2
You did alot of work, but did you fix what was causing it to overheat? It is overheating for a reason.
09-24-2011, 07:29 PM #3
You know more than me my friend, but sounds like the head is cracked. I think your next course of action is to do as you already stated.
Did you check the block for warpage by the way?
09-24-2011, 07:37 PM #4
Cracked head is what I am thinking too but it has to be cracked in the exh port.....I'll get to it in a couple days and find out for sure, but I suspect it got way hotter than the owner thinks the 1st time. BTW, it does NOT overheat as long as coolant level is maintained. When I sort this out I will get pics......
09-24-2011, 08:51 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Lake Dunlap, Texas
Hey guys-- I am reaching back to my drag racing days in the 1950s & 1960s. From what you have said has been checked and replacement of two head gaskets--I would think you have a cracked cylinder wall IF and thats IF--you have had the head magafluxed. Just my .02 cents worth for free.
09-24-2011, 09:10 PM #6
absolutelutely i like my spelling cracked head sounds right have the head pressure tested and magnafluxed any good machine shop can do it if thats ok straight edge the block i doubt the block as much as I dont doubt the head
09-25-2011, 10:06 AM #7
I can see the head warping more than the block, usually if the head is warped the block isn't even though they are connected and if the block is warped it will be superficial, if coolant is in the cylinder it has to be cracked sleeve or head, but.... like perviously stated what caused the hg to blow? sounds like the hg was good and you have another problem.... have the head magnafluxed
09-25-2011, 10:15 AM #8
Magnaflux procedure only works on magnetic alloys.
09-25-2011, 11:00 AM #9
I am well aware that the problem is NOT the head gasket and was looking for someone here that has seen a cracked head or liner due to heat and not freezing, and if so, where was the crack?
09-25-2011, 09:53 PM #10
Like some others have stated. It sounds like a cracked sleeve. I'd pull the head once more and take a look. And tell him to get the studs, woulda saved him some money. Best of luck.
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