Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1

    Iney body have the link for the triple fuel pump build thread

    On a 95 slt 75o thanks

  2. #2
    johnsonmtz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Mt. Zion Illinois

  3. #3
    bowsniper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Your gonna need:

    3 geniune Mikuni carb rebuild kits. 129.00
    2 caps for the carb rail to block off 2 inlets
    20-21 ft of fuel line.
    clamps for all connections..can be tie wraps,oiteker clamps or stainless steel clamps.
    triple outlet fuel pump
    2 gas filters--watch the orientation with the arrows on them
    1 oil filter
    peferably a 12 inch pulse line or shorter with a braided line that wont collapse
    keep your restrictor from the old return line.
    get a stubby 12 mm wrench for the carbs.
    dont snap off the oil pump rod nylon connector holding it on. it snaps on and off.
    remember the orientation of the oil looks like it can go on 4 ways. it only works 1 way. the other 3 ways it wont fit right.
    just take the carbs off, not the manifold!
    take off the blue caps on the high speed adjusters- adjust with them off. they only allow a 1/4 turn adjustment. i just threw mine
    check the needles and seats for wear.
    write down what jets you have- they are under the jet block.big is main, small is pilot jet.
    mount the pump higher than the pulse line fitting.
    The diaphrams go on only 1 direction. when you take off the covers, look to see how they go on. if you put them on wrong, they wont pump.
    leave play in the fuel lines until your done, then trim to fit. keep them short as possible with no binding or kinking.
    use grease on the carb base gaskets. make sure they arent broke.air can get in there and youll go lean.
    set the carbs with stock settings if you have no Mods done to the engine or carbs. unless your at a high altitude
    use 2-stroke oil/gas mix to bump start the engine until you get fuel flow thru the carbs.
    clean the screens on the gas tank pick ups. make sure they are on.
    make sure the lines you use for the tank are straight and not curling up on ya.
    1 is your reserve and the other is your main. dont mix them up/ do 1 at a time. 1 is longer than the other.
    make sure the return line gets the restrictor put back in. that builds your fuel pressure.
    mount the pump above the pulse line. otherwise, it could suck liquid into the diaphrams in the carbs and they wont work.
    replace 1 line at a time so you dont get confused.
    clean the gas tank out, the oil tank and the water fuel seperator
    check your gas tank cap for cracks inside the ski
    check the o=ring in the fuel selector
    make sure the water fuel seperator gasket is in there and the cap isnt cracked.
    adjust idle after to spec. 1250 rpms. it gets adjusted on the end of the carb rail with the tee handle and spring adjuster.
    double check that the oil pump is working properly when the throttle is moved for binding
    the oil lines are special size. 3mm id and 7 mm od.
    check to see if the big oil line feed tube is tight and has clamps on it..
    when done, double check that the oil lines are indeed connected and tight from the pump to the carbs.
    replace the plugs with br8es NGK only. Gap accordingly. .024-,028".if you want to replace them.
    make sure you torque everything down to specs.
    check to see the cam for the throttle cable moves freely and opens the carbs all the way open when you hold the thottle open all the way.
    Fill the water serperator with 2-stroke oil mix and gas to get it up n running. that way your not sucking air until it fills up. makes it start quicker.
    look to see if the choke operates as intended. it closes all the way when shut and opens all the way when open.
    Fire it up! Look for leaks..

    if your worried about oil consumption from the oil pump working properly, you can always add 2-stroke oil and gas to the tank and run it like that untill your sure the pump is actually pumping oil and you see the level go down. might smoke a lil more than 40/1 mix.
    add the gas first or else youll suck up all oil first and it wont start..
    throw away the auto cock. it looks like a lil fuel pump. it doesnt go back in with the new routing.

    Nothing will change really when you replace all this. it will just provide the correct fuel flow from now on. Good Luck! takes about 3 hours total. about 200.00 for everything.

    You could even replace all the needles and seats in the carbs,the orings for the needles and replace the fuel selector o-ring if you so chose. if they need to be changed.

    Tired of reading? Well start wrenching! bring some soap and water with you.. that oil is slippery and hard to get the lines on the fittings. I use it to wash my hands and to lube the ends of the lines to get them to go on. I use a small pair of pliers to open the ends of the lines a lilttle to get them to go on easier.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 1500 triple pipe stroker build thread
    By WATER WOODY in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 516
    Last Post: 06-05-2011, 08:38 PM
  2. 1500 triple pipe stroker build thread
    By WATER WOODY in forum Yamaha Open Discussion
    Replies: 509
    Last Post: 01-16-2010, 09:17 PM
  3. Need Triple fuel pump
    By arkyhogg in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-19-2009, 10:32 PM
  4. For those who want a triple fuel pump
    By dr.ipper in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-30-2009, 07:49 PM
  5. 44mm i body fuel pump check valves
    By billy's gpr in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-19-2009, 08:24 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts