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  1. #1
    tealgreen2000's Avatar
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    supercharger shaft

    i have questions on what breaks the supercharger shafts is it the high boost wheel or is it high rpm me and some friends have been having a debate on what makes this happen any info on this or experience's with this would be great thanks


  2. #2
    fx160's Avatar
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    i think some of the early thoughts were over tightening because of the left hand thread

    kev

  3. #3
    Kelly_A's Avatar
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    I think using a non-digital torque wrench or just not paying attention to the torque specs are the two main culprits. Click-stop and beam torque wrenches are notoriously unreliable when tightening something with anti-clockwise threads. The shafts are very prone to shearing if overtightened by only a couple of ft. pounds. Regardless of boost or RPMs, I don't think there have been any posts of shafts breaking once properly torqued and installed.

  4. #4
    Also, i think this happened to me, (see my current threads), i think i exceed the torque specs when removing. I correctly set my 250 dollar electronic torque wrench to 70in-pounds (install) however i never checked when removing. RD recommended setting the torque wrench to 80in-pounds on removal, and if it reaches 80 and doesnt budge go to heating the nut.
    do a search on my threads, make sure also that it spins free after installing the housing if you hear anything scrapping or rubbing immediately correct it. I didnt again see my threads and get advice from these guys on this forum!

  5. #5
    mike1706's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterj59 View Post
    Also, i think this happened to me, (see my current threads), i think i exceed the torque specs when removing. I correctly set my 250 dollar electronic torque wrench to 70in-pounds (install) however i never checked when removing. RD recommended setting the torque wrench to 80in-pounds on removal, and if it reaches 80 and doesnt budge go to heating the nut.
    do a search on my threads, make sure also that it spins free after installing the housing if you hear anything scrapping or rubbing immediately correct it. I didnt again see my threads and get advice from these guys on this forum!
    so what is the specific torque you need to used when you installing a wheel

  6. #6
    Just relax and enjoy the ride. XLT Chad's Avatar
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    Ummm...Mike.
    Its in the third line of the paragraph you quoted. (70 in-lbs )

  7. #7
    hitman's Avatar
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    I thought the guy asked what makes the shaft break in relation to "high boost wheels". Not what makes them break when installing any wheel.

    Even if you torque 100% correctly, when using a high boost wheel the stock shaft can spin the rear pressed on gear off the shaft and then the shaft snaps. A good aftermarket shaft should be a one-piece design instead of the rear drive gear being pressed on. All the aftermarket shafts available incorporate larger diameter threads on the end of the shaft and a larger nut to allow for increased torque spec on the SC nut.

    The stock shaft was known for being made of pretty soft metal and the threads could be pulled off the end of the shaft easily if over-torqued. That is what everyone else was talking about in this thread.

  8. #8
    old school gp's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=hitman;1815541]I thought the guy asked what makes the shaft break in relation to "high boost wheels". Not what makes them break when installing any wheel.
    +1

  9. #9
    tealgreen2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    I thought the guy asked what makes the shaft break in relation to "high boost wheels". Not what makes them break when installing any wheel.

    Even if you torque 100% correctly, when using a high boost wheel the stock shaft can spin the rear pressed on gear off the shaft and then the shaft snaps. A good aftermarket shaft should be a one-piece design instead of the rear drive gear being pressed on. All the aftermarket shafts available incorporate larger diameter threads on the end of the shaft and a larger nut to allow for increased torque spec on the SC nut.

    The stock shaft was known for being made of pretty soft metal and the threads could be pulled off the end of the shaft easily if over-torqued. That is what everyone else was talking about in this thread.
    thanks for the answer to the question

  10. #10
    fx160's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitman View Post
    I thought the guy asked what makes the shaft break in relation to "high boost wheels". Not what makes them break when installing any wheel.

    Even if you torque 100% correctly, when using a high boost wheel the stock shaft can spin the rear pressed on gear off the shaft and then the shaft snaps. A good aftermarket shaft should be a one-piece design instead of the rear drive gear being pressed on. All the aftermarket shafts available incorporate larger diameter threads on the end of the shaft and a larger nut to allow for increased torque spec on the SC nut.

    The stock shaft was known for being made of pretty soft metal and the threads could be pulled off the end of the shaft easily if over-torqued. That is what everyone else was talking about in this thread.
    the question was "is it high boost wheels or is it high revs"

    kev

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